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Thread: GIS sail tweaking
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24th February 2012, 04:31 AM #136Rusty Member
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Yep, read the "lug rig heaven" thread a few times, and I have experimented with a quick rigged kicker/boom vang. For my flat DW sail, I did not notice a big benefit with the kicker, but I could dramatically change the sail shape by varying the outhaul, including the attack angle of the luff. This is for the common wind conditions where I sail, roughly 5-10 knots of land heating coastal breeze that is dead in the morning and evening.
I'll quick rig the downhaul/outhaul and try it and report. I have some super low stretch spiderline left over that should work well - going through a single block at boom clew end to the clew, and through an extra ratchet block set above my existing upper ratchet block for my downhaul. This should yield the 1/2 tension on the outhaul for any downhaul tension setting. I like the idea of a hard stop for outhaul max tension.
The "old style" laser setup looks like it has the disadvantage of not being easy to ease on a run, as reaching the cleat would require leaning over the lee gunwale. )
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24th February 2012, 05:44 AM #137
You should have two stoppers on the outhaul, max on and max off. As for the OLD laser outhaul, the loop handle is well forward, so very easily reached on a run. If you go with the stopper knot system, even easier, but you could also have the cleat fixed well forward on the boom. If you have a crew, even easier, but if not, you're sitting on the mid-seat right?!
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24th February 2012, 08:10 AM #138Rusty Member
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That should be reachable.
With my kids, they sit on the midseat and I usually sit on the gunwale just behind the mid-seat. In the ocean by myself I sit on the floor just aft of the mid-seat - low CG, good vision, and less chance of going swimming while my boat sails away. Besides, with a boat cushion, and full wrap life jacket, it's like sitting on a cozy lounge chair. I have my downhaul and halyard rigged through clamcleats and strung aft so that I can reach and adjust them easily. I added a ronstan adjustable length tiller extension awhile ago that I really love.
... and sometimes I stand, which interestingly gives a completely different perspective on the sail trim.
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28th February 2012, 07:55 AM #139Rusty Member
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This is a good link for laser rigging - http://www.abclubhk.com/download/Laser1_USARM.pdf.
I think I'm going in a different direction. Independent downhaul, and outhaul, with the outhaul off boom hung block close to the mast that I can slide aft, then down to the deck - in effect like a boom vang. So it's still a combo, but a vang/outhaul combo instead of a downhaul/outhaul combo.
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28th February 2012, 11:42 AM #140
Howdy,
I think you need more independence than this. For example in medium plus or minus a bit winds and flat water you need a flattish foot and reasonable vang force .. the vang should just lose its tension when the mainsheet is trimmed to full power. This would mean the outhaul would loosen and bag the foot too much.
Also in strong winds and rough water you need a deep foot and heaps of vang.
Crosswind you usually need lots of depth at the foot (1:7 - set up your system so you can just throw all tension off the outhaul and it goes straight to this setting) and vang can be light medium or strong depending on how much wind there is.
Sometimes you see people comboing adjustments ... but I've seen them come and go too often. I don't think it stands the test of time.
HOpe this helps a bit
Best wishes
Michael
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16th April 2012, 11:28 AM #141Rusty Member
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Ok, I bought the blocks and tested the new rig. I now have a standard downhaul, and a new outhaul which from the clew passes through a boom end block and back to a second block lashed to the boom about two feet aft of the mast. It then is attached to the butt end of a ronstan orbit 40 ratchet block which, similar to my downhaul, pairs with a matching orbit 40 single block with a becket and built in cleat. I cheated and mounted the butt end of the cleat block to the becket of my downhaul block. So that the outhaul line cannot sag down between the boom lashing and the boom end, I added a simple loop retainer at my sheet block lashing location.
Ten knots of wind, me on the gunwale and my son on the mid seat, it worked great. Very easy to adjust as the downhaul and outhaul/kicker lines come from the same spot. The only bummer is the expected increased boom bend - which takes me way back to the discussion of a stiffer boom, which is now a must rather than a maybe.
As there was a nice breeze we decided to sail explore the docks a bit. There are a few nice restaurants cranking Jimmy Buffet, and a few nice sailboats. Sure enough I get the usual "nice boat, did you build it?" shouts, but one guy shouted, "who designed the boat?", I answered "Michael Storer", and the guy shouted back "Storer, yeah, I knew it". So, there you go, Mik, you're famous even in a city with one GIS.
I learned a lesson today. Do not go too far by-the-lee in a tight harbor with kids paddling rented kayaks. If they nonchalantly head to cross your bow from the downwind side, you have few options other than a really long gibe to avoid making their parents really mad that you just sank jr.'s kayak.
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16th April 2012, 11:30 AM #142
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16th April 2012, 11:32 AM #143Rusty Member
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I added a Davis spar fly wind indicator to the mast head, using the quick release. It worked great ... but, the tail was a tad too long, and touches the gaff. I trimmed off about 1.5 inches from the tail, and rebalanced the adjustable nose weight to fix it. I have to sadly admit, the spar fly was a good bit more accurate and easier to see than my original bow mounted parrot feather and lego indicator.
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16th April 2012, 11:36 AM #144Rusty Member
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16th April 2012, 12:22 PM #145Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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16th April 2012, 02:38 PM #146Rusty Member
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17th April 2012, 04:09 AM #147Rusty Member
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So, should I make a hollow box boom, or a fatter solid round boom? I want it to be pretty dang darn stiff.
Any recommendations on the best wood for either the box or solid?
If you make a box boom, should there be?
(1) internal cross members
(2) sealed compartments
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18th April 2012, 07:24 AM #148
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18th April 2012, 07:44 AM #149
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/g...ml#post1390944
BobWes has experimented a bit with hollow sectioned booms for his GIS, so you might get some ideas from him.Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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18th April 2012, 01:50 PM #150
And here: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/b...ml#post1255149
The is some stuff on the WIKI as well, but I've lost the link. These dims provided a quite stiff enough boom, but you could go to 70mm if you want super stiff.
Hope this helps.
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