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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    Mik's GIS rigging suggestions online state
    "Note that the plans suggest that the boom should be 200mm above the partner - this is a mistake - it should be 200 to 250mm above the sheerline as shown in the drawing above"

    http://www.storerboatplans.com/GIS/GISRigging.html

    I don't favor the battens either. Mine are gathering dust.

    I agree, I too am very happy with the overall performance and simplicity of the rig. But it is fun to figure out ways to improve things.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    Another question: In your setup, does the loop from the front of the boom around the mast replace MIK's "square lashing" holding the boom to the mast? Or does it augment it?

    I'm finding the "square lashing" to be much more trouble than it is worth (at least with my square mast -- it might work better with a round mast). If I tie it loose enough so that the boom does not bind against around the mast, then it seems pretty useless. The wind keeps the boom against the mast on one tack and the downhaul prevents it from getting too far out on the other. Accidentally tie it too tight and the boom grinds away. And it always seems to be in the way when unrigging, hung up on the halyard cleat or something.

    I had been thinking about replacing that lashing with a loop of line run through a saddle on the boom and around the mast. I figured that would fix my slipping downhaul problem and be more useful as a mast-boom linkage. I kind of like what you describe with running a line forward, but does that replace the lashing as well?

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    Quote Originally Posted by warm beer View Post
    Mik's GIS rigging suggestions online state
    "Note that the plans suggest that the boom should be 200mm above the partner - this is a mistake - it should be 200 to 250mm above the sheerline as shown in the drawing above"
    Good to know I'm not crazy! (And good to know that I don't have to wear a helmet to get the best performance from my rig.)

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    Interesting point about the height of the boom. Although I don't see that the front end of either David's or my boom is set below the breasthook, I have been inconsistent in setting my sail as the mast is scuffed (from the boom) between 5" to 8" above the sheerline. I'll have to pay closer attention to how high I hoist the sail.

    Looking at photos, it appears that in light airs the sail is set higher while in heavier winds it is set lower. This has not been a conscious decision on my part but it seems to have worked out that way.

    The square lashing works okay for me - with two notable observations: 1) Tying it too tight does NOT work. I have a square mast and a square (well, flat-sided) boom. With the lashing tied too tight, the boom doesn't move (at all). 2) If the lashing is too loose, the boom works more against the mast - causing more chafe (requiring more maintenance this winter).
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    You have to lash it, but I've wondered about the square mast dilemma myself. How does the boom swing easily around a square mast. This is a question for John Goodman. John? John?

    For my part, I have a round mast that likes to pivot in the mast hole. I'm trying to figure out the best way of keeping it from twisiting as the boom swings around.

    side note: I took off my halyard cleat and put on a Ronstan RF5 cleat base:
    Ronstan RF5 Cleat Base / Swivelling Cleat Platform NEW | eBay
    In my effort to turn my Goat into an offshore trolling machine, I needed a way to douse the sail quickly from the stern when I get a tuna strike. I tested it last weekend, and it works great. Sail down in about ten seconds, never letting go of the tiller. It's also handy for reefing on the water, as you don't have to worry about falling off ( heading) while raising the sail!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    GIR has a round mast and a round boom.

    My flat-sided boom works fine with my flat-sided (square) mast if the lashing is tied correctly: not too tight and not too loose.

    That fitting looks very nice. What size line is your halyard?
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    Clearly, I need to pay more attention to sail hoist:

    Light air set:


    IMG_3089 by bob.wessel, on Flickr

    Heavier air set:


    046-GoatIsland by jhkohnen, on Flickr
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    ... and I need to pay more attention to mast shape - so right, GIR's mast is round!

    My halyard is 7mm. It works fine with the RF5.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    It makes sense to me to set the sail lower in stronger wind. Less torque, so you can go a bit longer before reefing. I'll have to try that.

    In the Paulina Lake photos, the front end of David's boom looks like it is below the bow to me. It could just be the camera angle, or the angle of the boom itself. And yours, Bob, looks to me like it is just slightly above the bow, almost touching the breasthook. Again, that could be camera angle. The set is much easier to see in the profile shots you just posted.

    I noticed the set immediately, as soon as I saw the pics, because it is so different from the way I do it. I think what struck me first was how much mast I could see above the yard.

    I've been thinking I set mine too high. The mast tapers much more quickly above a certain point, and I was wondering if the yard should stay below that, for strength. And the torque thing.

    Maybe the take-home is that it doesn't matter so much.

    I like the idea of being able to raise and lower the sail single-handed. Where I put in, I have to paddle out a good way before I can drop the foils. If I raise the sail on the beach, I'm fighting with it until I am far enough out. If I wait and raise it further out, I drift side-to until I get everything squared away. Neither is much fun. A cam-cleat system with the halyard run back aft would certainly be easier.

    If I get any more sailing days this season, I will play with alternatives to the square lashing and report back.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    "Old" Hampshire, UK
    Posts
    105

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    Thanks for all this interesting discussion, the swivelling cam-cleat looks like a great idea to make raising, lowering and tweaking easier.

    I was looking at ways to bring the hallyard and downhaul further aft to make life easier and this is a neat solution to both.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Tilburg, the Netherlands
    Age
    51
    Posts
    519

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    Hello,

    My Goat has a square mast (with a round boom however). I am not using a lashing to keep the boom to the mast as it prevents the boom from swivelling freely around the mast.




    It has so far worked very well on both tacks and also in strongish winds (25+ knots and more).

    Some leather on the boom will prevent the mast from getting scuffed.

    Best regards,

    Joost
    Last edited by Joost; 13th October 2011 at 10:17 PM. Reason: spelling error

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    Checking my photos from last weekend's Sail Oklahoma, I found this shot of John Goodman getting underway in GIR.


    GIR Underway at Sail Oklahoma by bob.wessel, on Flickr

    I'm thinking there isn't any one right way to do things... we all need to find what works for each of us and our Goats.
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    319

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    Sorry fellow sailors I have been busy with work and family matters. Finally got some sailing time in up in OK.

    I do have a round mast and round boom/yard. I keep the boom on the port side of the boat opposite of the halyard cleat.

    I do lossely tie the boom to the mast and I have a preventer that is a webbing loop from the tip of the boom and around the mast. I have found this preventer keeps the boom from swinging forward while raising/lowering the sail.

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    Wow, so much for "definitely needing to lash", as Joost doesn't lash, and in strong winds at that. I guess the downhaul is sufficient to keep the boom from pushing off the mast too far?

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    John:

    Thanks for the clarification. I am going to experiment with the same type of thing. That is, I will if the weather clears and I get any more sailing in this season.

    Bob:

    I think you are right -- how high you raise the sail just doesn't matter that much. I may try setting it lower just to see if it makes any difference, especially on windy days. But I doubt it will affect performance too much.

    Joost:

    Leathers for boom and oars (and maybe the yard) are on my to-do list. I figured they'd be good winter projects.

    I see you also have a piece of shock cord running back to the centerboard. Do you find that works? I tried it and my cb still kept popping up. I ended up running shock cord from the handle down and back under the middle seat.

    All:

    Back to the question of boom flex. I'd still like to leave my sail loose-footed and I'd rather not build a new boom right now. So I'm thinking about a different path for the sheet.

    I currently have the sheet rigged per MIK's online instructions: from boom tip to a traveler at bulkhead 4, back up to and along the boom, then down to a block at bulkhead 3. I don't like this for several reasons. The tiller gets hung up in the traveler. The angle -- having the sheet run back to where I'm sitting rather than forward along the tiller -- seems wrong to me. But most relevant, I think it makes the boom flex more in a stiff breeze.

    Has anyone tried moving the traveler back, closer to the transom, and running the sheet straight up and down from the boom tip, with the sheet then running forward to the skipper? Does it negatively affect performance or ease of handling?

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