Thread: GIS Yawl

Originally Posted by CCBB

Keep us posted. Pictures! How do you like the Hallet sails?

^^What he said!

Originally Posted by Rob Hazard

Could the hanging point on the yard be moved forward to compensate without altering the set and balance of the rig?

You'd probably be increasing weather helm some. But then again, the steep angle of the yard means that you might not shift the rig back a whole lot.

Or... you could tear open your forward tank, install the step and partner of Clint's Yawl variation, and move the mast forward while keeping the rig in its original position. You'll be halfway to a yawl, will decide to go all the way and build the mizzen and a new, full length main mast.

I have some shots on an iPad of the construction, but no on-the-water shots.

I am building the boat with Clint's yawl rig, and have installed both mast partners forward, but haven't completed all the bits for the mizzen yet. In fact the boat still needs another coat of paint inside and several coats of varnish on the trim. I'll get to all that in the fall. I just ran out of time and wanted to get it out for a spin before we head north. Our first winter down here there have been other priorities beside boatbuilding.
So far all I can say is that the main sets beautifully. It's a well shaped sail. Hallett's does nice work! I suspect I'll want a slightly stiffer boom, but the yard seems about perfect. I won't go sawing down the mast before exploring the options fully.

But I may make a spare, expendable, short daggerboard, unglassed. We have an awful lot of really, really shallow water here, rife with oyster beds. My lovely fir & ash daggerboard's fiberglass sheathing is no match for oyster shells!

The West Coast Trailer Sailor Squadron is having a get-together here this weekend, so I'll take the boat there to meet the gang.

Rob, I know someone out there has notched the transom so the mast can rest "inside" the transom. I have seen the picture just can't locate it tonight.

When the wind is dead and the water flat, I row with the rig up. I do tie the main sheet out of the way so I don't get tangled in it. (I have a centered mainsheet system) If there are rolling waves and no wind I drop the sail and push the sail/boom/yard off to the port side and tie it to the gunnel and leave the mast up.

I have rowed the boat with the mast inside the hull, but it was only from the boat ramp to a covered slip at a sailing event. I remember standing up and over all the gear and facing forward to row.

Originally Posted by john goodman

Rob, I know someone out there has notched the transom so the mast can rest "inside" the transom.

There are a few versions of that approach out there, but I would nominate Warm Beer's "Feather" as having the most elegant solution. The builder notched the transom's top edge right in the center deep enough to encompass the tiller cutout. It is a dramatic departure aesthetically from the MIK's transom design, but it looks good in its own right.

Thanks, John. I actually have notched the transom, a bit off-center, for a sculling oar, but it's not far enough off-center to accommodate rowing. However, I'm now looking at making a little cradle block to be fastened to one of the quarter knees to support the mast. With a 10 mm hole drilled through the knee, the mast could be tied there for travel.

So forget what I said about chopping the mast down. I don't why I would come up with such a hare-brained idea!

Today I'm exploring ways to secure oars, anchor, bailers, etc., so they'll be handy but not liable to go AWOL if I capsize.

Originally Posted by davlafont

There are a few versions of that approach out there, but I would nominate Warm Beer's "Feather" as having the most elegant solution. The builder notched the transom's top edge right in the center deep enough to encompass the tiller cutout. It is a dramatic departure aesthetically from the MIK's transom design, but it looks good in its own right.

Just for my own reference, here's the post with pics.

(I'm building an OzRacer starting this weekend, but I already have the GIS plans and I'm addicted to reading these GIS threads.)

John

You wouldn't mind directing me to a picture of your "(I have a centered mainsheet system)" or maybe providing another couple of pictures with an explanation. I know you explained your set up to me once before when I met you and Michael at the end of the TX200 last year. I'm an old guy forgot some of the details. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Rob Hazard

Today I'm exploring ways to secure oars, anchor, bailers, etc., so they'll be handy but not liable to go AWOL if I capsize.

Good plan. I lost an oar when it floated away in a capsize last year. Buying a new set means that I am now paying, literally, for my stupidity.

Among surf kayakers that's referred to as "holding a yard sale".

Originally Posted by roddyhd1

John

You wouldn't mind directing me to a picture of your "(I have a centered mainsheet system)" or maybe providing another couple of pictures with an explanation. I know you explained your set up to me once before when I met you and Michael at the end of the TX200 last year. I'm an old guy forgot some of the details. Thanks.

I have changed my mainsheet a little since you last saw it. I found I had too many blocks compared to the load on the sail. The attached picture is how I sailed the boat on a 3 day cruise last month.

The lower block it attached to a bridle on the aft side of the middle seat. The bridle is tied thru the limber holes and there is a loop/shackle in the center of the bridle.

The turning block on the upper left is towards the bow of the boat.

The racketing block on the upper right is towards the stern and it's the free end of the sheet I hold onto. Note the plastic wire tie that runs thru the block and lashing. This keeps the block from swiveling and twisting the lines all up. These blocks are all Harkens and they don't seem to make a non-swivel racket block in this size, hence the wire tie. I find something better to replace the wire tie.

I have secured the lashings with plastic pad-eyes so they will not slide on the boom.

I have used this in wind from 0-15 mph. Even is higher winds I think it will have plenty of purchase to work well.

John, I'm really glad you posted that. In fact, I may just try to copy it tonight and try it out tomorrow. Did I count correctly that it gives a 4-1 purchase?

The bridle on the center thwart; did you try rigging it as a traveler before fixing the block in the center? It must give enough of a downward vector to the pull to keep the sail from twisting or you'd have done something different, I presume...

How close to the end of the boom is that after block? I'm asking because I have my sheet tied off through the clew grommet. I've been thinking it would be nice to get rid of the traveler that runs across the tiller.

Originally Posted by Rob Hazard

John, I'm really glad you posted that. In fact, I may just try to copy it tonight and try it out tomorrow. Did I count correctly that it gives a 4-1 purchase?

I can't count that high right now.

The bridle on the center thwart; did you try rigging it as a traveler before fixing the block in the center? It must give enough of a downward vector to the pull to keep the sail from twisting or you'd have done something different, I presume...

[COLOR="rgb(139, 0, 0)"]I tried the rear traveler and did not like it since it interfered with getting back to the rudder and mizzen. The middle seat bridle is a fixed center point. I never wanted to deal with a traveler. Look at the attached picture to see how it controls the sail in about 10 knots of breeze.
[/COLOR]

How close to the end of the boom is that after block? I'm asking because I have my sheet tied off through the clew grommet. I've been thinking it would be nice to get rid of the traveler that runs across the tiller.

[COLOR="rgb(139, 0, 0)"]The forward block is right above the rear edge of the middle seat. The rear block is about 10" behind that. Sorry the mosquitoes are so bad tonight I am not going back outside to measure, maybe tomorrow. My main sheet ties to the becket block. I did not want a sail control line running along the back of the boom. I would hang myself on it. [/COLOR]

Have fun sailing.

John, I was going to try rigging my main sheet like yours this weekend, but decided I'd need a stiffer boom than what I've got now for it to be successful.

Saturday I took my Goat to the Crystal River Boat Bash, where I encountered Simon Lew, who had brought his along. When the sea breeze filled in we both launched and sailed around the waterfront, eventually getting into an informal tacking duel down the river dodging motorboats and trying not to touch bottom near the banks.

Simon has built himself a new boom, a box section with carbon fiber reinforcement top and bottom, and the added stiffness along with a 6/1 downhaul gave him a discernable advantage. I spent a good part of the day checking out the rigging tweaks he has come up with.

When I chose to build a Goat I was not looking specifically for a high performance sailing machine, just reasonably good performance combined with shallow draft, rowing ability, and simple construction. The performance is an added bonus.

We'll be heading north for the summer in a week or so, leaving the Goat in storage down here. When we return I plan to bring a new stiffer boom along and I'll complete the mizzen rigging.
I'll try not to get carried away with the high performance thing. I realize it's a slippery slope!