Goat Island Skiff

**JJMc** · 11th March 2011, 04:58 AM

@Dave, don't hatch your chickens before they're counted. A friend and I have been talking about building Goat Island skiffs together for two years now. That project will have to wait until I return to Wisconsin this summer, and finish the kayak that's waiting in my basement

@Mik, Texas and Connecticut are rather far away. Will you be in the Pacific Northwest or the Midwest at all? Do I have to organize a family quick canoe event to bring you to our neck of the woods-- SW Wisconsin, close to the mighty Mississippi river?

And thanks for the number, right around 36" draft.

Jerry

**john goodman** · 11th March 2011, 07:26 AM

Originally Posted by Boatmik

In Theory the depth will be about 918mm plus or minus a bit.

I guess I might need to know - I am coming to the next Texas 200 and also Duckworks JOWoodworks and I will be doing the Family Boatbuilding at Mystic Seaport where people will be building the Quick Canoe Electric.

MIK

I was nervous talking to Jim Michalak during the Texas 200 about our GIS. Now the GIS designer is going to come this Texas 200 event. I guess I really do I have to revarnish the interior now.

What a great meeting to look forward to.

If you are sailing the whole event I have plenty of extra camping gear.

**warm beer** · 15th April 2011, 05:34 AM

I have very fond memories of Mystic, Conn. We had a C&C 35 we'd cruise up to Newport from the Chesapeake, and would stop in at Mystic Seaport. I loved the wooden boat shops where they showed how traditional tools were used, the older wooden boats being perfectly maintained, and the tasty, though overpriced lobster. Wish I could be there!

**davlafont** · 15th April 2011, 05:44 AM

Originally Posted by warm beer

Wish I could be there!

I'd have to check the plans again, but your Goat should fit through the Panama Canal ok.

**warm beer** · 15th April 2011, 06:33 AM

Yeah, no prob, see you there in six months - with empty pockets from bribing the lock masters to let a small boat through.

)

and while cruising by, I would love to sail the Texas 200. (In a long sleeved shirt, wide brimmed hat, and a can of sunscreen next to my can of beer. )

**paulie** · 20th April 2011, 11:25 AM

US Goat-makers (especially Clint): What are you using for rudder hardware? I'm having trouble finding stuff which will work. I sent email to both of the email addresses listed on the Duckworks web page and got nothing back. (Are they still in business?) Clint - what are you putting in the kits? TIA.

**davlafont** · 20th April 2011, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by paulie

US Goat-makers (especially Clint): What are you using for rudder hardware? I'm having trouble finding stuff which will work. I sent email to both of the email addresses listed on the Duckworks web page and got nothing back. (Are they still in business?) Clint - what are you putting in the kits? TIA.

I just received my epoxy from them this week...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

**Boatmik** · 20th April 2011, 01:11 PM

Originally Posted by paulie

US Goat-makers (especially Clint): What are you using for rudder hardware? I'm having trouble finding stuff which will work. I sent email to both of the email addresses listed on the Duckworks web page and got nothing back. (Are they still in business?) Clint - what are you putting in the kits? TIA.

Anything with a bigger than 6mm (1/4") pin will work even if it is separate pintles and gudgeons. A 6mm pin is OK if it uses the single pin system in the plan.

If using separate pintles the rudderbox can jump off the back so you need to add a retaining clip or pin.

Mik

**CCBB** · 20th April 2011, 01:21 PM

Racelite Extra Heavy Duty Pintles & Gudgeons - RL-490

I ordered these. Duckworks will have what people need in the US.

**SimonLew** · 20th April 2011, 02:13 PM

I had no trouble getting the ones MIK specifies from JSI

Pic here

**paulie** · 21st April 2011, 12:49 PM

Awesome, folks. Thanks to you all for the info!

**paulie** · 14th May 2011, 01:37 PM

REALLY late to be asking this question, but better now than after the boat is in the water.....

Was I supposed to tape the edges of the transom? I didn't get that impression from the instructions. But as I look at pictures on flickr, it seems like everyone else did. All I taped were the chines and the stem.

The hull feels solid. But I'm now having a vision of the future which includes a "sproing-oing-oing-oing-oing-oing-oing" sound as the sides part ways with the transom.

If I should have taped the transom edges, please tell me now before I start varnishing. Thanks!

**arbordg** · 14th May 2011, 02:02 PM

Paulie,

If it's at all feasible at this point in the build, I'd take the transom seams. Feasible or horrendous... I'd tape them if you plan on hanging an outboard.

**SimonLew** · 14th May 2011, 02:12 PM

Hmm, I did not see MIK call for taping the transom so I did not. Hopefully he can chime in to clarify but I'm inclined to leave the tape off as the transom is pretty well supported with the seat and hull sides so I don't think it's going anywhere.

**callsign222** · 14th May 2011, 09:27 PM

The plans call for the bottom chine of the transom to be taped like the rest of the chines, otherwise, no tape on the sides unless you want to.

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