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  1. #31
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    Jul 2011
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    Finland
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    131

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    MIK: Could you please mail the sail instructions to me in case I will divide the expenses by making a cheap temporary sail and later getting a proper sail. You probably still have my email address.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
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    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    I do have a simplified sail design done for the Goat. But I do recommend getting proper sailcloth to do it rather than polytarp.

    Also I have instructions lifted from the OzRacer plans. You would need to find a zig zag sewing machne. With the right sort of double sided tape you can stick the sail together then take it to be sewn in one hit.

    MIK
    Hi MIK

    The approach you described is sounding like a very good option. When I order paint etc from duckworks I can also order sailcloth and any other bits and pieces that are required. The area where I live, here in Guatemala, is big into producing textiles (and coffee ) so I have no doubt that if I could prepare and layout the cloth I could find a way to get it sown up.

    Could you please email me the information you have outlined. I believe we exchanged emails last on July 26/27 (depending on how the date line comes into play).

    Cheers

    Matt

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Previous post - posted twice.
    Last edited by surlyone; 31st Aug 2012 at 05:11 AM. Reason: Previous post - posted twice.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    60
    Posts
    8,116

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    Quote Originally Posted by engblom View Post
    MIK: Could you please mail the sail instructions to me in case I will divide the expenses by making a cheap temporary sail and later getting a proper sail. You probably still have my email address.
    Shoot me an email and I will send.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    When I order paint etc from duckworks I can also order sailcloth and any other bits and pieces that are required.
    did they quote you the 12-week waiting time? Have you checked with Doyle-Ploch who did SimonLew's radial cut lugs'l? I bought all the materials and supplies I needed from Duckworks. However, not only do I have a decent sewing machine with triple-zig stitch, but I actually know how to use it!

    Good luck with the build! Go ahead and start chopping wood; the sail will come together one way or another
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    I used very shiny paint on my Goat, Epifanes two-part epoxy high gloss over an Interlux high-build primer. It looks great and has held up well to considerable abuse. I'm really very happy with it.

    The interior is Epifanes gloss varnish. I did a crappy job applying it, but it still looks good. Varnish requires more prep and upkeep than paint. And true boat varnish is soft so it can flex, so it scratches easily. But I'm still glad I used varnish. My neighbors have seen the boat enough so they should be used to it. But I still catch them staring. Then they mumble something about how good it looks. Makes me happy.

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    60
    Posts
    8,116

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    Cloth might not be adequate. You need a close weave dacron/terylene. Usually good sailcloth is filled with a resin to some extent and heat shrunk to some extent too.

    I would expect a polytarp sail to be better than one made of a textile that wasn't so closely woven. Some PDRs built cotton sails and found the luff stretched so much that the sail tack ended up a foot below the deck.

    MIK

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    did they quote you the 12-week waiting time? Have you checked with Doyle-Ploch who did SimonLew's radial cut lugs'l? I bought all the materials and supplies I needed from Duckworks. However, not only do I have a decent sewing machine with triple-zig stitch, but I actually know how to use it!

    Good luck with the build! Go ahead and start chopping wood; the sail will come together one way or another
    The DuckWorks website has a wait time of 12-14 weeks listed for sails and I asked for a quote from Dabbler Sails (they seem to have made a few sails for Goats already) and they indicated they were fully booked through to the end of November.

    I am going to talk to some of the people I know that have textiles made here but I think there shouldn't be a problem getting the sail sown if I can do the preliminary work.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulie View Post
    I used very shiny paint on my Goat, Epifanes two-part epoxy high gloss over an Interlux high-build primer. It looks great and has held up well to considerable abuse. I'm really very happy with it.

    The interior is Epifanes gloss varnish. I did a crappy job applying it, but it still looks good. Varnish requires more prep and upkeep than paint. And true boat varnish is soft so it can flex, so it scratches easily. But I'm still glad I used varnish. My neighbors have seen the boat enough so they should be used to it. But I still catch them staring. Then they mumble something about how good it looks. Makes me happy.

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2
    Thanks Paulie. Unless there is a good reason not to I am planning on a glossy finish inside and out.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Cloth might not be adequate. You need a close weave dacron/terylene. Usually good sailcloth is filled with a resin to some extent and heat shrunk to some extent too.

    I would expect a polytarp sail to be better than one made of a textile that wasn't so closely woven. Some PDRs built cotton sails and found the luff stretched so much that the sail tack ended up a foot below the deck.

    MIK
    My reference to textiles was more in regards to the skill set available here and the likelihood of finding a sowing machine. I need a whole bunch of stuff to finish of the boat so if I make my own sail here I will also order sailcloth, double sided tape (and anything else I need).

    Cheers

    Matt

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    60
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    8,116

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Finally made a start today by marking out the side panel.

    The sheer line matches the comments made by other Goat builders and there is an inflection point towards the bow end. Looks fair;y fair to me.

    Sheer line looking from the bow end.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...24215500368098

    However I wasn't expecting to see a similar (though milder) inflection point on the chine line towards the transom. I checked the postion of the last 8 nails and they appear to match the plans and the edge of the plywood appears straight. So I did some basic maths checking the differential measurements from the edge of the plywood to the chine line (for each 300mm gridline) and it confirmed that there is an inflection point somewhere between 900 and 1200mm from the transom end (between nail 4 and 5 in the next photo).

    Has anyone else also observed this?

    Chine line looking from the transom end.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...24077532518786

    Chine line looking from the bow end.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...25144910517330

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queenstown New Zealand
    Posts
    382

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    However I wasn't expecting to see a similar (though milder) inflection point on the chine line towards the transom. I checked the postion of the last 8 nails and they appear to match the plans and the edge of the plywood appears straight. So I did some basic maths checking the differential measurements from the edge of the plywood to the chine line (for each 300mm gridline) and it confirmed that there is an inflection point somewhere between 900 and 1200mm from the transom end (between nail 4 and 5 in the next photo).

    Has anyone else also observed this?
    Yes the curve of the chine edge of the side panel reverses towards the stern. There's no reversal of the actual curve/camber of either panel, it's a consequence of the straight run back of the bottom panel, combined with the way the side panel is flared, but pinches in towards the stern to keep the transom relatively narrow and the fore and aft volumes balanced.

    Ian

  15. #44
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    60
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    Caw ... you really don't need me to turn up here at all!

    Nice one Ian!

    MIK

  16. #45
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    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    60
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    The test always is if ONE nail is out or a couple don't rationally match the line.

    I've been really lucky that first, the computer pins down the measurements so accurately (usually) and then if one of the arrows snaps to the wrong point when I do the dimension it will be spotted as a dud point by a builder.

    This happened a long time ago so the points are pretty accurate.

    MIK

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