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  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Thanks for your replies. Ian now that I look at the shape of the bottom panel your explanation makes perfect sense.

    Cheers

    Matt

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  3. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    It's been about five years since I went through the parts layout process so I could be wrong but I seem to remember seeing something weird going on at the sheer as the line approached the bow. Seems like it made a minor change in direction--instead of an upward sweep it turned downward. I ignored it, cut to the line, and all was well.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  4. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    414

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    I drew the line and freaked when I saw the curve. I was only able to cut it after my son, who was looking at the plans from a different angle, assured me that it was in the drawings as well.

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk 2

  5. #49
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

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    Howdy,

    The strangely wavy shape is, as Ian said, a result of the more sophisticated shape of the Goat compared to most "instant" style boats.

    Many of the others have been influenced by Bolger's idea of constant chine angle and a straight sheerline that looks curved when the sides are angled outwards. It's pretty neat, and if Bolger had been the only one then it would have been a bit of a design classic.

    I guess it still is, but it's kindof become the predominant way of drawing up the sides of a flat bottomed bottom.

    I design my flat bottomed hulls freeform with sheer and chine wandering around through three dimensional space to get a sheer that seems acceptably "classic" to my mind and the chine wanders around to get the mix of rocker and hull width I want - that really defines the hydrodynamic properties of the hull (as far as I understand them).

    The sum total difference in building is that you have to draw two wavy lines, rather than one straight one and one curved one. As far as what it means for the chine - if you have to plane the corner off to fit the bottom anyhow ... or leave it a bit proud to plane down and ensure a nice fit - well there ends up being little difference in that department.

    I do think Bolger's vision was great. As he says - its from a strong tradition amongst traditional "build by eye" (I'm not disparaging it ... it is a significant skill) builders of flat bottomed boats.

    MIK

  6. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    I didn't know enough when I drew the line and cut it to be concerned (or even see) such curves (in the drawing or on the plywood). Figured Mik knows what he is doing and I just 'followed the plans' (more or less).
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  7. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    It's time to get on with my next round of ordering stuff.

    The ropes seem well specified in the GIS rigging guide but I am having a bit of trouble working out exactly what hardware is required. I already have the hardware for attaching the rudder and some inspection ports.

    Here is my current list (sorry for the poor terminology, I'm still struggling with some of the names):

    Mast and Yard:
    Dead eye top of the mast:
    Seadog Oblong Eye Plate or
    Seadog Nylon Fairleads

    Horn cleat bottom of the mast 3":
    Seadog Nylon Cleats

    Block on yard for halyard 1/4" (RL301):
    Racelite Single Block - RL-301

    Downhaul:
    Something similar to the dead eye at the top of the mast.

    Mainsheet:
    Traveler block 3/8" (RL307):
    Racelite Traveler Blocks - RL-307

    2x Single blocks 3/8" for mainsheet (RL601):
    Racelite Single Block - RL-601

    Ratchet block for mainsheet (RL46100):
    Ronstan Series 40mm Ratchet Orbit Blocks

    Is there anything I am missing or have specified poorly?

    Cheers

    Matt

  8. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    [B]Mast and Yard:
    ...
    Block on yard for halyard 1/4" (RL301):
    Racelite Single Block - RL-301
    The consensus is to omit this block. A simple loop as part of a wrap around the yard is all that's needed since the halyard doesn't work back and forth, even during raising. However, some have put a block on the mast rather than the deadeye/fairlead becuse that IS a place for friction to build when raising the sail. I've followed that advice with a cheek block, but I can't yet report how is performs.

    Downhaul:
    Something similar to the dead eye at the top of the mast.
    Most folks are using some sort of multi-block purchase. There have been as many different solutions as there are Goats--including the deadeye rigged with a trucker's hitch as the only purchase. 4:1 or 6:1 seem to be the norm. I'm not sure if Duckworks has a low-cost Racelite set up for those. They have a fiddle block, but not a fiddle block with a becket which together would create a nice low-cost 4:1.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  9. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,759

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    Also, if the budget allows, choose fairlead/eyeblocks with ss inserts for let fricktion and long life. The Ronstan ratchet blocks offer the best performance over other brands and allow the use of smaller diameter sheets that run through much better. For the GIS, a 6 or 7mm sheet works very well with the blocks you have selected. Again for the ratchet, if you can, choose the auto version.

  10. #54
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    Most folks are using some sort of multi-block purchase. There have been as many different solutions as there are Goats--including the deadeye rigged with a trucker's hitch as the only purchase. 4:1 or 6:1 seem to be the norm. I'm not sure if Duckworks has a low-cost Racelite set up for those. They have a fiddle block, but not a fiddle block with a becket which together would create a nice low-cost 4:1.
    For the down haul how about something like this arrangement in the bottom picture on this page Racelite Block/Cleat combination used with this Fiddle Deck Block Racelite Fiddle Deck Block - RL-306-DF mounted on the hull?

  11. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    The cleat/block combo with becket block attached approximates the fiddle block with becket I wish they offered. The set-up is not unlike Joost's downhaul which incorporates a clam cleat. I'm not sure I'd want that RL 306 fiddle block as a permanent fixture on my deck though.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  12. #56
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    Yeah I'm like a pig in #####!

    Before I start wallowing I need get my next round of ordering underway so that I have the hardware, rigging, paint, sail etc when I have finished putting together the hull:

    1. Does anyone have any strong opinions on using satin, sem-gloss or gloss paint / clear finish. I'm thinking of using System Three's WR-LUP water base finishes; the inside finished clear, the sides white and the bottom black.
    2. I noticed that there is a 12-14 week waiting time for purchasing sails at the moment - does anyone know how I can shorten this. 3 months + up to 2 months for delivery means that I could be looking at having to wait until February before I get out sailing. I am open to making my own sail but don't have access to a sowing machine - or any experience making a sail.

    Thanks for any advice offered!

    Cheers

    Matt
    Hi Matt,

    Here's my 2 cents on finishes. I started out planning to use the System Three WR-LPU clear coat because of it's water cleanup. I've read that it can be finicky (they all are to some extent) and did a test on the foils in very humid Florida. I carefully prepped by the book and the clear coat went on great but it did not adhere perfectly everywhere on the foils. In a few spots it peeled up with a fingernail scratch. Since I did as good a job on surface prep as I'm capable of on something as easy as a foil and still got some adhesion problems I decided to not risk peeling issues on the inside of the Goat and fell back on my old standby Interlux Perfection Plus. It's chemically nast stuff and challenging to get to flow out to a good looking finish but it sticks like crazy and is very durable.

    I used System Three Quick Fair on the outside of the hull and it's the best fairing compound I have ever used. Then I used the System Three water based epoxy primer. This stuff went on fantastically well. It went on so well that I have left it without a topcoat. This is partly due to laziness but I really like the no-nonsense look off white matte finish. It hides all manner of fairing imperfections. Downside is that it picks up dirt and is harder to clean than a shiny finish.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  13. #57
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    The DuckWorks website has a wait time of 12-14 weeks listed for sails and I asked for a quote from Dabbler Sails (they seem to have made a few sails for Goats already) and they indicated they were fully booked through to the end of November.

    I am going to talk to some of the people I know that have textiles made here but I think there shouldn't be a problem getting the sail sown if I can do the preliminary work.
    Check with Doyle-Ploch in St Petersburg, FL (800) 717-1406 who made my radial lug sail. Dabbler quoted my GIS sail. He makes outstanding sails but his lead time was several months and the sail was much more expensive then Doyle so I went with Doyle and the radial lug sail was born
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  14. #58
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    For the down haul how about something like this arrangement in the bottom picture on this page Racelite Block/Cleat combination used with this Fiddle Deck Block Racelite Fiddle Deck Block - RL-306-DF mounted on the hull?
    The only reservation with this setup is that it will be difficult to cleat and uncleat from the sailing position. This is not a huge deal just be aware that when single handing in strong winds and waves it is a little challenging to go forward to the mast.

    My halyard to yard attachment is a 1" SS ring lashed to the yard. Works well without noticable chafe and can't beat the price.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  15. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I try to steer clear of external metal blocks, as they will and do rub against the wood parts and can leave scratches. My preference is for ronstan orbit, and harken carbo blocks.

    stuff like this:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ronstan-40mm...item2321f5d884

  16. #60
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Good point about metal hardware being rough on the wood. That is partially why I chose Ronstan Orbit but they are a bit spendy compared to Racelite.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

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