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  1. #106
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Thanks for the tiller hole suggestions. Davlafont I like your solution, it looks very neat, especially as I think I would need to purchase more "top framing" timber to implement warmbeer's cutout approach.

    Warmbeer - out of interest can you attach an outboard motor in your cutout section?

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  3. #107
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    Matt, I think I have the same hardware (from Duckworks). I made my slot taller:

    Attachment 236108
    Davlafont - I'm going to have a guess at the dimensions for your tiller hole:

    - 90mm high (functional requirement to allow removal of rudder)
    - approx. 270-300mm wide at the top (for aesthetic reasons)

    I am guessing you have tucked it up as close to the top frame of the transom as possible.

    Does that sound about right?

  4. #108
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    Davlafont - I'm going to have a guess at the dimensions for your tiller hole:

    - 90mm high (functional requirement to allow removal of rudder)
    - approx. 270-300mm wide at the top (for aesthetic reasons)

    I am guessing you have tucked it up as close to the top frame of the transom as possible.

    Does that sound about right?
    I'll take some measurements later this evening. But I did have to alter the top frame member; the hole was greater than space available on the ply. I identified the need for larger hole before the frame was installed so my frame is not a straight horizontal line. But the curve I applied was very slight, maybe 20mm at its apex, so it actually doesn't stand out as such. There is/are GISes out there with a fully arched frame member that matches the top curve of the transom. Here's a(nother) chance for you to add your own unique touch.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  5. #109
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    San Diego, CA
    Posts
    236

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    Thanks for the tiller hole suggestions. Davlafont I like your solution, it looks very neat, especially as I think I would need to purchase more "top framing" timber to implement warmbeer's cutout approach.

    Warmbeer - out of interest can you attach an outboard motor in your cutout section?
    I suppose, but I think the pintles would get in the way. So in otherwords, "yes, but that would be pintleless".

  6. #110
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

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    Disturbing level of puns here, but terrific help!

    I do like the classic transom on such a classic boat. I think I drew it up with a more modern transom at one point, but even on "paper" the standard transom looked really nice. And it helps minimise the bevels required for the knees - but that is not a biggie.

    MIK

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    I've had some time to work on the goat this week and finish of the transom and bulkheads. Here are some photos after three coats of epoxy on one side (in most cases the least visible side). I don't feel that I have done the best job coating these panels - the end result looks and feels pretty rough. It didn't help that the wind picked up whilst coating them and has stopped me coating the other side today.

    You can see the water damaged section of bulkhead #1 clearly with the epoxy; the other (visible) side looks better however. I ended up needing to remove some of the top frame of the transom so that the rudder/tiller can be removed.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...atIslandSkiff#






  8. #112
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    Looks good. I like how you already put in the re-enforcement for the lower gudgeons on the transom before you put the boat together. Don't worry about water stains, if you use your boat correctly, it will be so beat up in 3 yrs it will be covered in water stains. Don't ask how I know this. The transom extra cut-out looks classy, utilitarian but also keeping with the boat's lines. One day warmbeer will fix his. (right?) The removable tiller would have been cooler, but extra complication and the Goat is about staying simple.

    I can't wait to see this come together. Are we going to get a shot with a GIS and a volcano in the background!? That would be awesome. Volcanoes and Goats go together, it's true. One is ornery the other is hot and bothered. Explosive.

  9. #113
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    You've done a nice epoxy job too, like you've done this before.

  10. #114
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by callsign222 View Post
    You've done a nice epoxy job too, like you've done this before.
    I'm not sure the compliments would be flowing so freely if you saw the epoxy job first hand...

  11. #115
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    No one has seen my boat except for Clint and Paulie, and they are far too polite to mention anything. Come over to NH and I'll show you a boat that will make you proud of your epoxy job.

    Anyway, if it looks good from 20' and squinting or from my standpoint at my computer, you're good.

  12. #116
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    I'm going to glue up the blank for the centreboard - the plans indicate it should be 341mm wide. Do I really need the hardwood mahogany strip on the leading edge? I seem to remember reading that the leading edge didn't need to be hardwood and that the trailing edge is where the hardwood is really required.

    https://picasaweb.google.com/1153149...28418339886898


  13. #117
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    Quote Originally Posted by surlyone View Post
    Do I really need the hardwood mahogany strip on the leading edge? I seem to remember reading that the leading edge didn't need to be hardwood and that the trailing edge is where the hardwood is really required.
    I'm pretty sure this is MIK's current guidance. I think he also says no hardwood is needed for the rudder after all. The trailing edge is what takes the brunt of any grounding and such. I have to imagine the leading edge's very top has to share in the load, but it might have something to do with being more of a fulcrum or some such. I can't say I know why, but I doubled the hardwood on the trailing edge as well as using hardwood on the leading edge. I didn't sink.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  14. #118
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    I would personally say it depends. Trailing edge: definitely. Leading edge-- depends. Lots of rocks where you are? I'm glad I used harder wood on the leading edge because I tend to hit a lot of things. The bottom point obviously gets abused the most, but interestingly so does the leading edge portion that hits the front of the case during impact as the board gets shoved back. If you have the board in different positions for different points of sail, you could, hypothetically, get a dented leading edge. Some sort of shock absorber at the top front of the case would solve this problem too, though. Your call.

  15. #119
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Fenwick, Michigan
    Age
    75
    Posts
    908

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    Is there a reason not to use hardwood on the leading edge, you know, the way Mik designed it?
    Building Gardens of Fenwick, a Welsford Parthfinder
    Gardens of Fenwick
    Karen Ann, a Storer GIS
    Goat Island Skiff - Sacramento

  16. #120
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Santa Cruz La Laguna
    Posts
    134

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    Quote Originally Posted by BobWes View Post
    Is there a reason not to use hardwood on the leading edge, you know, the way Mik designed it?
    Yeah I thought I remembered reading somewhere that MIK no longer thought it important to use hardwood on the leading edge of the centreboard. Did a search and couldn't find where he said it.

    My reason for not wanting to use it is that without it I am only 3-5mm of the required width, with it I will have to reduce one of the centre pieces by ~25mm (with hand tools).

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