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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default Ya think?



    Tippy means fast, right?
    Ahh - this was more what I had in mind.

    Oh who has heard the great commotion, motion motion
    All the country through?
    It is the ball a-rolling on
    For Tippecanoe and Tyler too
    And with him we'll beat Little Van, Van
    Van is a used up man
    And with him we'll beat Little Van

    Sure, let 'em talk about hard cider (cider cider)
    And log cabins too
    't'will only help to speed the ball
    For Tippecanoe and Tyler too
    And with him we'll beat Little Van, Van
    Van is a used up man
    And with him we'll beat Little Van

    Like the rush of mighty waters (waters waters)
    Onward it will go
    And of course we'll bring you through
    For Tippecanoe and Tyler too
    And with him we'll beat Little Van, Van
    Van is a used up man
    And with him we'll beat Little Van
    I was more thinking how it looked like a "tippecanoe"... long thin and tall hull.. or referring to its apparent lack of built in blockline water stability - specially once you add in a mast and sail to increase the heeling moment, against the relatively short GZ curve righting lever.
    Just looks to me like a design which might spend more time upside down that right side up....

    But I am no blow boater.

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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    G'day again

    By all accounts she can be a bit tippy particularly if not reefed early enough. When sailing it, it's best to keep the weight low and centered around the middle thwart (ivo the cg). The other big thing is to keep the mast as light as possible in order to reduce the lever arm.

    Build progress to date:
    Rudder cassette built and in the process of being glued.

    Dagger board case being glued up.

    Hull panels and bulkheads all epoxy coated, sanded and installed.

    Next step will be the hull flip today. I just wanted to give the epoxy 24 hours to set properly first, though temps here have been good for gluing (30degC).

    Dan out.

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    G'day all

    I've flipped the hull and glued the bottom down. This took far more ply backed screws than I first thought(somewhere around 70 screws), however it worked quite well.

    I've run a router around the edge in order to get rid of the bulk of the excess of the bottom panel, before taking the rest off with a spokeshave and plane.
    Tomorrow I'll fibreglass the chines and finish fairing the hull prior to flipping it upright.

    Dan out

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Looking good Dan.

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Thanks Northstar,
    I hope your staying warm up there. Those kind of temps are nuts. A little bit warmer down under, it's 7pm here and about 32degC outside the epoxy is kicking in about 20-30mins normally. It's going to be 45degC here tomorrow.

    Well I've taped the chines and finished the centrecase. I got interrupted during the clean up from gluing the bottom so I've got a fair bit to clean up when I flip it. Time for the heat gun and cabinet scraper to get to work.

    I've shaped up and pre-coated the bottom runners from some nice jarrah (850kgm^3) a bit heavier than specified but really hard wearing. It also has an interesting feature in that the surface of it oxidises rapidly when cut, this oxidisation prevents the epoxy from adhering to it. To get around it you've got to coat it as soon as you've finished cutting/sanding it.

    I'll attach these runners tomorrow prior to flipping the hull.

    A quick question, has anyone taped the side edges of the transom or is this unnecessary? :what:

    Dan out.

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    G'day again
    Time for a midday update, I'm taking a pause at the moment because it's too hot to glue (43degC) and my daughter is asleep so no power tools (I don't want to but I need to sand)

    So far today I've dry fitted the runners, which took some body English to ensure they run true to the centreline. I've screwed them into bhds 2,3 & 4 and also from the underside on 30cm centres.
    As you can see they've corrected a slight hollow I had in the bottom panel between bhds 3&4.
    Before

    After

    Much better.

    I've also commenced work on the oars, I'm using a combo of the design from the gaco website stretched to 2.75m with Miks blade dimensions and curve. We'll see how they go.

    More later after I've glued the runners tonight.

    Dan out.

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Still hot, and I really dislike sanding. I went through 5 sanding disks in a little under 90 mins.

    The gluing of the runners went pretty smoothly as well. So tomorrow hull flip time I might need to enlist some help.
    Unfortunately monday marks the end of my leave period, so my work rate might drop off for a bit.

    Dan out

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Sanding is no fun at all. Having enough time to clean up after the big gluing job of attaching the bottom would have been ideal, but things often don't go to plan. With my build the heat of the day got the better of me and the poxy went off faster than I could clean the drips.

    For the runners, I went with the lightest timber I could find which was some ultralight "meranti" from Bunnings. Then I capped it with an aluminium strip. There are no right or wrong ways. Just different.

    I ended up making my light weight second boom from it as well. Actually, it would make a great boat building timber as it's so nice and light with no knots.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Thanks Woodeneye I hadn't really considered meranti but I'll probably go that way for the gunwale capping. I wonder about its suitability for a birdsmouth mast.

    Anyway progress is as follows:
    Centrecase fitted, I had to brace the aft side of bhd 3 while I cut into the top cleat (particularly because I made bhd 3 out of 4mm plywood)

    Centrecase front cleat fitted.

    Primary mast step and partner installed. I've also shaped the second step and partner for gluing tomorrow.

    That's all for now.

    Dan out.

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    665

    Default U gonna

    You gonna brace that transom to take the outboard?

    The wind don't always blow you know!

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Is the centerboard case farther forward in the yawl version? It looks like your center thwart and case are farther forward than what I did on my goat.

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    No, the only deviation from the plans for the yawl are additional mast steps and the associated bits and pieces for the mizzen. I'm going to check the bulkhead placement tomorrow vs the plans:what:. I'm hoping the discrepancy is only an optical illusion.

    I'll be beefing up the port side of the transom to accept a outboard once the tanktop is in place. As I'm likely to get the outboard for gratis long before I'll have the folding stuff for the sails.

    Dan out

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    In the photos it looks like your bulkhead is almost abutting the butt joint of the hull panels. I think the front edge of the thwart should be there instead. It also looks a little tight from the front of the case to the next bulkhead forward.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    You're right
    When I marked out the side panels about 7 months ago I marked the position of bhd 3 against the wrong vertical. The one next to the but instead of the next one along. Net results of this error:

    Increase of waterline beam of 4cm roughly. (Acceptable)

    Bow section slightly more full forward. (Acceptable)

    Centre of lateral effort for the board nearly 30cm forward. (Unacceptable)

    How to fix it? I'm going to install a second bulkhead in the correct position and brace the existing bulkhead before cutting out the centrecase. I'll then install a plywood plug in place(using the router to create a stepped joint) before shifting the case back to the correct position.
    This add about another week to the schedule, but will fit in with the plan of enclosing the middle thwart anway. Annoying yes, unrecoverable no.

    Dan out.

    Sent from my GT-S7710 using Tapatalk

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

    Default

    That's a great head banging against the wall icon. Story of my life it sometimes seems. Glad it was caught before you got further along and that you've got a plan to move ahead. Pretty amazing that we can help each other out half way around the globe. If we could figure out how to work the time difference so we catch each others mistakes before we actually make them, then we'd be onto something.

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