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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    104

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    Geez you're keen!

    I'm trying to figure out what to coat my boat with at the moment. Something that only requires a few coats and lasts for 10 years, preferably, That sounds like 2 pack, but I still haven't been able to rationalise forking out all that dough when I could get the same immediate result for half the price with 1 pack.

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    G'day Poit

    After using outdoor enamel on the QC and Aquacote on the GIS, I can definitely say the Aquacote does a better job hands down. It flows out better and is a much harder finish.

    I've had some difficulty with the Aquacote in Perths hot dry summer (it dries too quick) but you should have no difficulty in the more humid environs of Moreton Bay. (We haven't had rain in over two months)

    Regarding quantities I bought 2L of topcoat and 4L of primer. Having painted it twice I can safely say you could get away with half that amount.

    As for interior varnish I used Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane, it's water based and you can get a 4L can for about ~$50 at Masters. I couldn't spring for the Aquacote clear at the time however I'm happy with the finish.

    The Aquacote came in at about twice the cost of outdoor enamel, about 10% more than using marine enamel, and a little cheaper than other marine LPUs. I also like that it is water based and an Aussie product.

    Cheers Dan

  4. #123
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    104

    Default

    The only time I've ever used enamel paint was with the doors on my sisters house, and I gave up half way through - they're still unfinished! If it wasn't ripples it was dust, if it wasn't dust it was runs. My bro in law gave up on it too. Have figured out the answer is to use thinners/penetrol, and more skill and better methods.

    Or use a water based product. If I'm gonna have a painting/finishing disaster, I'd much rather it be dry quickly and wash up with water, so aquacote has a few things going for it. It's even more attractive if I can get away with smaller quantities of it than I expected - thanks for the info. The minwax stuff doesn't look too bad either. (I see you went satin with it, you maverick Dan! Looks good.) I've been looking mostly at the norglass/northane products so far.

  5. #124
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    Aquacote (and all other WBPU - water based polyurethanes) responds well to moist environments and poorly to dry ones. It is possible to choose the day to some extent and also modify the environment by wetting the floor or hangind some wet sheets and keeping them wet in your painting area ... it all helps. Plus the transition to moist air as the sun disappears.

    I've seen cases where the Aquacote has been beautiful down one side and then a pain down the other. Keeping sun off and increasing moisture helps enormously.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  6. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    A long overdue update. I've finally got my butt into gear and started on the mizzen to turn the GIS into a yawl. I've made the mizzen mast out of meranti 11mm thick and birdsmouthed, the sprit and boomkin will be made out of meranti too.

    I had a crack this weekend at sail making and while the stitching doesn't hold a candle to my RSS mainsail it'll hold nicely enough.

    Lofting the sail


    First cuts and seams stuck.


    All sewn up.

    Just need to add some eyelets.

    Cheers Dan

  7. #126
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    Next update.

    I've been doing a few tweaks and additions to the Goat, firstly to fit the mizzen and secondly to mount an outboard (only when not sailing).

    Boomkin block and boomkin fairlead.

    I haven't bedded or screwed down the fairlead yet just waiting for a few other things before I do that.

    Outboard pad glued and filleted in place.

    The hole in front of it is a hatch that I wasn't happy with that I've removed for a few modifications. More on that next post.

    Cheers Dan

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  8. #127
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

    Default

    G'day again

    As promised here's the detail of my modification to the hatch.

    To increase purchase on the 8" hatch lid, I bolted and bedded a piece of oregon to it. This plus reseating the hatch has given it a much smoother operation.

    I finally got an outboard for the goat, a Parsun 3.6hp 2 stroke(on sale new for $600AUD), consequently I had to build a stand for it for when it's not in use. A trip to the big greed shed later and I had some cheap treated pine, caster wheels and a cheap garbage bin.

    Sketched up plan.


    The base skids.


    All set up with the outboard fitted.


    It puts the engine at about 105cm (3 1/2ft) from the ground, so a comfortable working height.

    I've done the initial 10mins idle routine in the bin filled with water, I'll carry out the rest of break in on the water. It's a bit smokey at the moment as it runs a 1:25 mixture during the 10hr break in, before switching to a 1:50 mixture.

    I also picked up some plugs from a local rubber store, to prevent water ingres when not running as a yawl.


    Fitted.

    I need to work a bit on the fairlead plug but I'm happy with the boomkin plug.

    Cheers Dan


    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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