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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

    Default

    wow .. what a great post that long one is ... i have posted a link on the Storer boat plans page on facebook!

    http://www.facebook.com/groups/160183704015231/

    Anyone can join the page by liking if they want.

    MIK

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default Jumping in (with an OzRacer)

    All ready for water!! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369285008.303385.jpg
    Any suggestions?
    1) I went with what I think is like a bleater instead of the square knot on the mastImageUploadedByTapatalk1369285041.681862.jpg
    2) I went with a loose footed lug. Hope it is set up rightImageUploadedByTapatalk1369285112.762641.jpg
    3) I went a bit crazy on the down hall. It is like 6:1 (i think). Thoughts?ImageUploadedByTapatalk1369285076.746089.jpg

    Thank you all for your advice and support.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    65
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    8,138

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    Hi Steve,

    The bleeter is OK. You need to set up the downhaul a little back along the boom ... maybe about 150 to 200mm (6 to 8") behind the mast as a starting point.

    The downhaul set up behind the mast pulls the boom forward - and the bleeter stops the boom from moving forward. With the result that the boom is properly tensioned in place.

    6:1 is about right. I think some have gone the full 12:1 or more for racing. But 6:1 will make the sail set nicely for regular sailing and occasional racing. Mostly because in strong winds you need to be brutal.

    MIK

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default Jumping in (with an OzRacer)

    It sails! This is serious fun!



    I had just enough wind to scoot along and refresh some brain cells on how sailing works.

    I have a lug sail question - is there magic on where to place the reef points? I recall reading in the lug rig tuning wiki about the smallest sail area reef point being far enough toward the foot to give some room for the yard to not touch the boom. And I am thinking the mid-reef point be half way down the leech and luff or is it to be parallel to the foot and half of the leech(front). Is that about right or are there mathimagical formulas that must be obeyed?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Boatmik; 27th May 2013 at 09:15 AM. Reason: Made image bigger and gave it a new line

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Snap but no pop (in the mast). Yesterday I took the boat out and gave it a go in 20+mph winds. I am happy to report that that with some great advice from Michael that the bow of the boat pops up after loading up, I got past my concerns. Today I discovered some cracks in my mast on a sail in milder 15 mph winds.

    Now I am looking at a repair before going out again and was open for advice. I am thinking that I sand the inside of the gap, full with thickened epoxy, clamp down, and the sand up & varnish. Or, is a layer of 6 oz. glass wrapped at the crack is needed??? Thoughts?

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Here is a pic of the crack

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Rosedale B.C. Canada
    Posts
    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stevecanaga View Post
    Snap but no pop (in the mast). Yesterday I took the boat out and gave it a go in 20+mph winds. I am happy to report that that with some great advice from Michael that the bow of the boat pops up after loading up, I got past my concerns. Today I discovered some cracks in my mast on a sail in milder 15 mph winds.

    Now I am looking at a repair before going out again and was open for advice. I am thinking that I sand the inside of the gap, full with thickened epoxy, clamp down, and the sand up & varnish. Or, is a layer of 6 oz. glass wrapped at the crack is needed??? Thoughts?
    I would mix up some epoxy and only thicken it a little, then try and force it into the opening as best you can. See if you can clamp it shut. I wouldn't try sanding it, as the dust may interfere with the bond. I would then wrap it with some 2 ounce cloth just to keep it from spreading apart under load in the future. 6 ounce cloth would be really heavy and quite visibly noticeable.

    Rick Landreville
    Rosedale B.C. Canada

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

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    Howdy Steve,

    What is a beginner sailor doing out in those conditions It is part of the magic of these little square boats! They handle rough conditions very well. In anything else you would be in a bit of trouble in stronger winds but the rectangular hullform has such crazily good stability that it works

    Is that a glued seam that has let go? What sort of distance has it let go over?

    Does look like the glue has let go ... the normal thing is if it is a mast failure is the damage goes well into the wood. Here it is neatly along the join

    Just trying to figure the pic out.

    MIK

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    The glue was epoxy but since it was my first attempt at epoxy and was the first part of the boat I built, I am pretty sure it was glue starved or I didn't add enough glue powder. The separation is about 1meter long at about 2 meters up from the bottom of the mast. I will say that it was interesting that the mast held together in lighter winds so that says a lot about the design of the mast.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

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    Hi Steve,

    Are you collecting some sailing pics or videos?

    With the fix .. I would do what Bruce suggests - clean it up as much as you can ... wedge it GENTLY open (probably pull it out by hand and pop two or three wedges in there to stop it closing up again - don't hammer the wedges in .. too much and you'll break the side off. Glue mix in the gaps using the piping bag method. Then clamp or use the packaging tape method in the plans to close the gaps without exerting too much force. Epoxy should only be clamped until it first starts oozing out of the joint.

    Then if you had any remaining doubts I would sand off the varnish until I got to wood or epoxy and put some 2 inch (50mm) wide glass tape along the join with an inch either side (obviously)

    MIK

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Yes, this is definitely a glue failure as otherwise there would be more significant splits in the adjoining timber. As you suspect Steve, this would be due to glue starvation (too much clamping pressure) and/or not enough high strength glue powder. It MUST be high strength glue powder as opposed to the lightweight balloons used for fairing.

    In this case the separation along the glue line will have a smooth surface so my choice will be to key it with some 40 or 60 paper doubled over and as suggested by MiK wedge the gap open and work the epoxy in, forcing it in with a spatula. Epoxy must be wet peanut butter consistency and definitely not dry or runny.Clamp with tape pressure only. Package tape wound around the mast. Given the rest of the mast will have the same glue as the area that failed, I think some glass banding every 30cm or so will do the trick and hold the structure.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Ok, all glued up. I ended up "pressing" the runny-peanut-butter consistency glue in the best I could using my glove hand because I could not wedge the crack without damaging other parts of the mast because the glue was holding very tight elsewhere. I also used a few Werner hand clamps with only modest clamping pressure to avoid squishing the all of glue out. I think I will take the fiberglass wrapping advice tomorrow as well just for added precaution.

    I also did some inspection and added another wrap of glass to the front end of my yard due to a small crack I found under the glass tape. I am thinking that the two holes at that point in the yard were a bit too close together plus the high load from the down haul and thus the slight crack. So, with those to patches, I think I am getting set to get back on the water. I must say that it is very satisfying to know that I can fix anything that gets busted. So, thank you Michael for the inspiring and instructive plans and thank you forum-responders for providing additional guidance!

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Renton, WA USA
    Posts
    19

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    I am pleased to share the mast issue is resolved! Thank you all for the advice.

    Here are a couple recent pics. At a lake near Ashland Oregon (sailing and a Shakespeare festival = good times)
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376618486.571516.jpg
    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376618534.893436.jpg
    (Michael, I realize I need a bit more down haul to take the twist out a bit, right??)

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