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Thread: Moreton Bay GIS
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25th March 2015, 06:38 AM #61
AS long as you stuffed that gap completely with epoxy, you have nothing to worry about. My stem is covered by a bit of carpeting to cushion the tips of my oars; no one sees the nasty mess I made of mine...
Dave
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25th March 2015 06:38 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th March 2015, 09:23 PM #62Senior Member
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Judging by the lack of success I had backfilling the glue on the bulkhead-to-side joins (I've had the syringe out fixing these up), I think it's safe to say I didn't completely fill the stem gaps full of epoxy. I'll do a few drill holes and might have to use a syringe to fill any cavities. Though that's no substitute for doing it properly first time around.
I've glued the bottom on today. I decided not to pre-coat the bottom, because I didn't feel like flipping the wet sheet of ply single handed, and I felt more comfortable cleaning up the ooze on a dry base. Also, I didn't flip the hull straight after gluing because I had one corner propped up to hopefully help correct a 15mm twist along the length.
I started with the bulkhead centreline screws all attached, then removed the front few and held the front half of the bottom up, glued and screwed it down, then lifted the rear up and did the same. I didn't have to man the panic stations this time around, even in 30 degree heat, so I'm calling this one a success, pending an inspection tomorrow morning.
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One other thing, I had an issue with the chine log near the stem. I roughly cut the chinelog so the sides wouldn't foul each other at the stem, and it turns out I should have precisely relieved the chine logs, because they collapsed in somewhat just behind the stem. (I vaguely recall this being a problem on someone else's build.) I wedged some ply in the gap, which seemed to halve the problem. The twist is contained in the 40mm width of the chines, so it won't take a lot of filling to fix it.
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8th April 2015, 08:50 PM #63Senior Member
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Well I finally planed the centrecase to correct width and glued the two halves together, and then glued it in the boat. I got away with using one screw skewed in at the front of the centrecase through to the floor, and a weight and a clamp to hold in down. I was quite surprised at how well the case fit straight into the boat.
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And I was also quite surprised that my cheap 2' clamp was the perfect length to hold the c/case gusset in position while gluing. That doesn't happen often. I doubled up the ply on the gusset. I figured it'd look quite good, and might turn out to have some practical advantage one day. 200 gram weight penalty.
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And it turns out the first step and partner I made was just a mock up. I wasn't happy with the wood I was using, but it took me until they were ready for gluing in for me to decide I needed to use different wood.
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And the goat has had it's first outing so I could check out whether the mast pointed in the right direction. The home made mechanics dolly sitting in the garage was just the ticket for moving it around.
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8th April 2015, 11:10 PM #64Member
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Mechanics' dolly is a good trick. I have one lying around. I've never had a car high enough off the ground to use it for its intended purpose. Boat dolly, here we come. The boat looks great Poit. I'm targeting 3D by the weekend myself, but there's much sanding between here and there, and I still need to make the gunwales, so it may not happen.
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20th April 2015, 09:14 PM #65Senior Member
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Gluing up the step and partner, and mid-seat framework:
P4171659.jpg
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Used recycled wire and recycled screw holes to hold an extra piece of Tas oak on the stem
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How sharp does one make one's stem?
And an earlier night time shot. Goat in the darkness:
P4091653.jpg
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21st April 2015, 01:20 AM #66Senior Member
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The boat looks good! I added a similarly sized piece of wood to my stem (mine was 8mm thick) and made it as round as possible. Looks pointy enough to my eye and was easy to get the 50mm glass fibre tape I put over it to stick.
Pontus
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21st April 2015, 01:32 AM #67
I think the saltier builders* will tend to round off the stem more (as well as the meeting point of the gunn'ls) to be more durable, practical, traditional, or impact friendly among other hulls. The sharper stem is a bit more aesthetically fine (to my eye), and more practical for a boat that be cared for with more caution. It's similar to the decision to paint or varnish (or both).
*A notable exception being SimonLew who is quite salty AND has a very pointy bow.Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
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21st April 2015, 09:44 PM #68Senior Member
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Thanks Pontus, thanks Dave. I was a bit troubled by how slim my stem cap turned out to be (~7mm), but I didn't feel like removing more of the stem to make it any deeper. I think I'm going to end up with a pretty sharp bow as it is, unless I remove most of the stem cap to make it blunter. I've got a few wobbles down the length of the stem to try and straighten out too, so it's anybody's guess how it will turn out at this stage.
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10th May 2015, 07:33 PM #69Senior Member
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Some progress has been made. I glued on the inner gunwales, one at a time, yesterday and today. I've got the seat tops on, and done the filleting. Wasn't too pleased with my filleting skills, but with a bit of sanding every other day (to allow time for my sanding finger to recover - I actually got a blister on the tip of my finger after the first sanding session) it should come up okay.
The gunwales make me feel like I've got most of a boat sitting there. Like I could circumnavigate the globe in it as it is, at a pinch. I was planning on doing both sides in the same session, but I needed all my clamps on each side at a time to hold everything down.
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Also I've made a reinforcement for the transom around the hole for the tiller, and happily, after I finished shaping it I looked at it and realised it looks a bit like a goat's head with horns. Was thinking of calling the boat "The Horny Goat" but probably some people might take this the wrong way...
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13th May 2015, 09:53 PM #70Senior Member
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Gunwales are all glued on. I've been trying to decide whether to go curvy or flat with the inwale spacers. I prefer old school as a rule, but the curved spacers are pretty snazzy, let's face it. But I had to figure out a way of shaping the curve. I've got a router, and I've heard of people doing them on the router, but I'd like to know what bit one uses to do them on the router. A large cove bit with some sort of improvised angled platform, or something?
I've ended up roughing them out with a little drum sander attachment on a drill - I'm getting pretty good at doing this freehand - and I'm finishing them off with sandpaper attached to some water pipe.
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20 down, only 30 or so to go!
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There didn't seem to be a lot of dust sitting around on the bench and the floor considering how much material I was removing. Once I'd finished for the day I discovered where all the dust was going, and why it was getting harder and harder to see anything (and yes, I was wearing a mask).
P5131745.jpg
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23rd May 2015, 10:27 PM #71Senior Member
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Four days all up, and I've finally glued all the inwale spacers on. I didn't want to use the spring clamps I had because they were at their limit and digging into the cedar, so it took twice as long as it might have. Next is to find out how well the inwale timber fits.
Did I do a bad thing by not covering the ply joins on the side panels with an inwale spacer? It seemed to be a choice between covering each side frame with a spacer, or covering the ply join and not covering the middle side frame, and I chose the former. I'll add something extra if need be.
The Japanese saw I bought years ago has finally come into its own cutting the cedar and ply on this boat.
Attachment 347962
Should I attempt to glue the underside of the inwales to the side frame tops on each bulkhead? It'd make the join stronger, but if anything is going to flex and crack it'd be that glue line.
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25th May 2015, 08:47 PM #72Senior Member
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The frames, as per plan, goes all the way to the shear line and a cut out is made for the inwales. Some people have made their frames slightly shorter in order to hide them behind a cut out in the spacers. You want the loads to transfer from the frames to the gunwale. If you side arms ends under a spacer (without any cut out in it)I would definitely glue the underside of the inwale to the side arm, and also be a bit worried.. I wasn't able to see your attached picture, so maybe I'm worrying in vain?
Pontus
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26th May 2015, 01:32 PM #73Senior Member
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Here is that pic, don't know what happened to it in the earlier post.
P5231751.jpg
I've done as you say - cut the side arms a little short (10mm) and notched out the inwale spacers so they fit over the top of the side arms. I was just wondering whether to make the notch on the side arms so it's snug against the underside of the inwale itself, and glue it there. Like this: P5261753.jpg Alternative is to taper the side arm from the bottom lip of the inwale spacer so water runs off, but that removes quite a bit of wood from the side arm. I think I've seen it done both ways. I might stick with the way I have it.
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27th May 2015, 10:42 PM #74Senior Member
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I've looked at the second picture for quite some time and can't make heads or tail of it. The way you've did it so far looks just right. When I mounted my inwales, I added glue to both sides of the cutout in the sidearms and then planed it to blend with the inwales after the glue had set.
Pontus
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28th May 2015, 05:46 PM #75Senior Member
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The pic is of bulkhead 3 side arm with an offcut sitting where the inwale is to go. I probably could have held the camera at a better angle, and a wider angle!
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