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Thread: Moreton Bay GIS
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17th January 2015, 12:09 PM #31
There's nothing as neat as a nicely turned out timber to ply join.
For the fillets a nicely sanded ply scrap works just as well.
But the nice thing about the plastic ones is that you can crack the epoxy off and re-use them!
MIK
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17th January 2015 12:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th January 2015, 08:52 PM #32Senior Member
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I've just discovered what might be my first significant booboo. I went with the standard hardener when I bought epoxy, didn't even think about getting non-yellowing hardener at the time, and I'm seeing the first results of it. I've been working to finish off the foils because I want a final thickness so I can finish building the cb case. I'm quite pleased with how the foils have turned out, and I've been tossing up weather to paint or varnish them, but the other day I noticed the tips (which I did a few weeks before proceeding with the rest) are yellowing.
Exhibit A: P1241558.jpg
Fortunately I only bought 6 litres of epoxy (botecote) to start, and I've only epoxied the bulkheads...and the mast and the boom and yard... So I can get some non yellowing hardener to do the bulk of the insides of the boat.
How significant is my booboo? Do I have to paint the foils and spars now? Or if I clear coat them do I just have to live with them going yellow?
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25th January 2015, 11:10 PM #33
Normal BoteCote isn't UV stabilised, but as far as I can tell, doesn't discolour if kept indoors out of the sun.
If kept outside for any length of time, even in the shade, it needs to be coated with some form of UV block.
regards
Alan JAlan J
Nothing says "Unprofessional Job" so loudly as wrinkles in the duct tape. - B.Spencer
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26th January 2015, 05:31 PM #34Senior Member
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The tips of my rudder and daggerboard have yellowed while sitting in a room with most of the curtains drawn, no direct sunlight - says something about the summer sun in Australia.
And I've just discovered that the botecote non-yellowing hardener has the same gel times as their "fast" hardener. eg 12 minutes at 30 degrees. So that's sure to provide some interesting moments in the coming months.
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27th January 2015, 12:27 PM #35Member
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I for one am not sad I bought slow hardener.
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27th January 2015, 06:23 PM #36
Poit,
I mostly used non yellowing throughout the build in Perth weather. The only time I had issues with it cooking off was when filleting, as the piping bag method heats up in your hands (so maybe save your left over standard hardner for fillets and gluing). Spread out for pre-coating panels was no issue, aside from the extra cost that is. I also used their TRPD stuff as well in the first coat and when scarfing.
Cheers Dan
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28th January 2015, 11:00 AM #37Senior Member
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Yes, it's a bit of a bummer having to pay $30 extra for epoxy that goes off in super quick time.
I've just remembered what my very first significant booboo was. When I was gluing up the scarfs on 2 of the box mast planks, I forgot to pre-coat with straight epoxy. I was thinking about buying more wood and re-doing the join, but I googled the issue and found some guy on the internet who was adamant that there's enough free epoxy in average glue mix to adequately do the job. So that was good enough for me! Time will tell.
In other news, even when I find merchants who sell oregon for a living, I can't seem to get them to sell me any oregon. I'm thinking my order must be too small for them to be bothered with, and I'm seriously thinking about using my recycled oregon I have sitting here. Saw someone mention the idea of "wabi sabi" and it started to seem like not such a bad idea after all, to have some nail holes and discolouration here and there.
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29th January 2015, 07:02 PM #38
Bag method
Howdy,
Perth can be pretty darn hot.
However, the way I approach the bag method is that the bag should be empty in under 5 minutes. I guess much of the time I can be faster than that.
What aids a fast application?
Putting masking tape down just outside where the filleting stick touches down on the surface.
And the attitude of getting the epoxy out of the bag as quickly as possible.
All the tidying happens after the epoxy is piped down.
But there are those days when it is so hot that nothing goes right - we got those in Adelaide too.
MIK
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10th February 2015, 09:17 PM #39Senior Member
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Well, 7 or 8 weeks after I started looking around for oregon for my goat build, I have finally secured a supply. Gumtree (an Oz version of Ebay) seems to be the place to look, at the moment at least, but buying second hand oregon is fraught with many and varied pitfalls. If there were no knots or splits or bolt or nailholes, I'd currently have enough wood for three or four builds, but hopefully I'll just scrape through with enough for one, after having spent what I figured I'd spend buying from a reputable timber merchant.
As for the timber merchants, if you're building a goat in SE Queensland, there are none I've found who will want your business. Cedar Sales took my order (after a 3 week wait over Xmas) then went quiet. And That Oregon Place took my order and never returned my calls thereafter. So there's my plug for the local Brisbane businesses
I'm glad I made a serious dent in the work schedule before being held back by the oregon issue. I've got a few coats of varnish on the spars, and the foils are sitting there awaiting varnish. Hopefully I'm out of the doldrums now and on to my second wind. Ahoy there, arr, arrgh, me mateys.
And it hasn't all been doldrums lately. Last week saw the first decent winds for months - 20-30kts for most of the week - and today there was good wind as well, so I've had a few epic sessions on the windsurfer lately. Thinking about it, I'm sure I would have had numerous religious experiences by now, out there on the windsurfer, if it weren't for the fact that having one would certainly be blissful, but would end in a monumental stack resulting from the lack of attentiveness to trim and tilt. Life is full of compromises.
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12th February 2015, 08:59 PM #40Senior Member
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I'm quite pleased with the last lump of oregon I bought. I've chopped it up into gunwales and inwales and tiller. It's almost spar quality apart from the grain veering off in the last metre. And there are some sappy gummy spots here and there. How do these go with the epoxy? Is there any problem with epoxy staying stuck to it, or do I need to do anything to make epoxy stick to it?
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14th February 2015, 02:20 AM #41
Generally, Doug Fir absorbs the epoxy nicely. I can't say how the sap affects saturation though. Do you have time to let dry for a while? Maybe that takes years; I'm really not a wood guy.
Dave
StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread
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14th February 2015, 03:50 PM #42Senior Member
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At the rate I'm going it'll have plenty of time to air out before I'm ready to glue it. One tip I saw was to clean the area with thinners just before epoxying, so I'll give that a go.
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15th February 2015, 09:39 AM #43
G'day Poit
Have a chat with the botecoat guys first. I remember there being an issue with thinners. Besides they should be able to tell you how they expect their product to behave.
I had a few pitch voids in the recycled df I used, I just sanded and hit them with a trdpa thinned coat prior to filling. No problems 1 year on.
Cheers Dan
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16th February 2015, 08:21 AM #44Senior Member
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Good idea, Dan, I'll give them a call. I haven't been using any trpda so far, but it might be just the ticket.
I've got plenty of sanding to do at the moment, but I finally glued up the transom yesterday, just so I could feel like I was making some progress. I used the original transom stiffener I made up, splits and all. No more arguments over which bit of wood to use, and which side should face up.
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17th February 2015, 12:52 AM #45Member
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Nice Poit. My opinion, FWIW (which is about what you paid for it), is that that transom doubler has real character. and you can fill those cracks with epoxy-and-sawdust to seal and stabilize them.
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