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Thread: Moreton Bay GIS

  1. #46
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    Thanks Brian. It's a tough old bit of wood. I bought more oregon, but I didn't bother cutting a new one because it almost certainly would have been inferior to this one.

    I epoxied the back side of the transom yesterday to protect it from dents, and I cut out a second set of rudder stock cheeks, because the first set I cut with the grain running the "wrong" way (for some reason it feels like the ply grain should be horizontal, but I accidentally cut them with it running vertically), but destroyed one of them with the last rough cut on the table saw. So vertical it is.

    And i cut and routed a new 't' shaped stock cheek spacer, which I'm pretty pleased with.
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  3. #47
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    Nice Poit. I just put my rudder stock/tiller assembly together. I found that, for me, thinking through the sequencing of the assembly to get everything precoated that needed precoating, etc., was a little complicated. But that may be because I'm slow.
    I think I agreed with you about the grain. But I think mine ended up vertical too, since I had to recut them and that was what I could fit on available offcuts.

  4. #48
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    I still haven't got my head around what and when to precoat on the rudder stock. And do the ply inside faces need varnish to protect the epoxy, or is it acceptable to leave the epoxy raw (also same question for the cb case)? So many questions.

    We currently have a cyclone bearing down on us here in sunny Queensland, much rain predicted, and king tides.

  5. #49
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    I did not varnish or otherwise protect the insides of the rudder cheeks or the centercase. For what that's worth.

    Here were my steps:
    I cut out and dry fit all the parts--the cheeks, the spacer, the lower "rail" things. I drilled holes for all the bolts and machine screws--I put two bolts through the cheeks and spacer near the leading edge, and two countersunk machine screws through the back end of the tiller and the cheeks, from inside out. I made my tiller itself first, and didn't precoat anything. I think that having the tiller built made assembling the rudder bits easier, but not having the tiller parts precoated will be annoying later. Anyway...
    I also glued on the lower rails on the cheeks, and put screws through the outer corners.
    Once I had all those holes drilled, all the parts fit and gathered together, I precoated the insides of the rudder cheeks and the trailing edge of the spacer. Three coats, wet-on-wet.
    As soon as I threw on the third coat, I mixed up some thickened epoxy for gluing, and spread that on the sides of the spacer.
    Then I put glue on the insides of the backs of the tiller arms, where they overlap the cheeks.
    After that, I slid the hole greasy mess between the arms of the tiller, lined up my predrilled bolt holes, dipped the bolts in epoxy, and slid them home.
    Naturally, this was accompanied by mistakes, omissions, frantic searches for missing washers, a very hurried redrilling of an incorrectly sized countersink, etc., etc. But after much hemming and hawing, that was the order of operations that I used. And it seemed to work, more or less. At least, everything is in the right place.
    Hope that helps.

  6. #50
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    Thanks Brian. I'm just precoating the insides of the ply now, with where the spacer goes taped off. It'd be nice to have the ply glued to the spacer before drilling holes for anything else.

    I just notice MIK seems to say in the plans to dry fit the rudder stock to the rear of the boat, and then attach the tiller (p.68). I guess as long as you use the gudgeon pin to line things up that [gluing them together beforehand] shouldn't be a problem.

    I'm getting to the point where, having kicked the cars out of the garage weeks ago, I may as well push on and go 3 dimensional, because I've been running around in circles lately with no real plan of action.

  7. #51
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    The trouble Poit is that you can't easily drill countersinks for the screws at the top and bottom back corners of the cheeks after you've glued the cheeks to the spacers. If you are putting in those screws. Anyway, good luck with it.
    I read that section too, and originally I tried to make up the rudder stock separately, as Mik seems to say, but I couldn't see how I could get all the bits on the stock doing it that way. Maybe I was just being dense. Anyway, my plan is to position the transom gudgeons using the tiller with hardware attached., to ensure that there is adequate range of motion and free movement of the tiller through the transom.

  8. #52
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    Yes, I'd want to pre-drill those countersunk bolt holes at the rear of the stock. I can't see any problem with doing it the way you are - the plans dictate all the angles and dimensions, so it all should work out the same in the end.

    We've got a cyclone in full swing just north of where I am today, combined with king tides. The television stations are all geared up for a disaster, but we seem to be getting away with "very wet and windy" so far.

  9. #53
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    Good luck Poit! Hope you pull through in one piece!
    King tides is not an expression I think I've heard in the U.S.

  10. #54
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    Yes, I was going to translate - "that is, we've got a hurricane in full swing just north of where I am today, combined with ....." because I figured "king tide" quite possibly wouldn't be the term you use over there, but Wiki tells me there is no colloquial name for it over there, just the sciency name "Perigean spring tide".

    They (our Premier and her advisors) were telling us early on there was going to be a 2.6 or 3.0 metre storm surge (that's 9 or 10') coinciding with high tide, which to anyone who knows what they're talking about means "The End Of Life As We Currently Know It" for many thousands of people. Fortunately the people telling us this didn't know what they were talking about, and the surge was more like 2'6" not 2.6m. It has torn quite a few roofs off and caused quite a bit of damage 500 miles to the north, but the cyclone has crossed over onto land and should lose power from now on.

  11. #55
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    P.S. I see you're getting a bit of weather over your way too, Brian. I'm happy to stick with the cyclones I reckon!

  12. #56
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    I cut my mast partners out of 40cm of 100x220mm oregon beam today. Tools: circular and hand saw, power and hand plane. Total cost, 2 hours labour and 1 litre of sweat. (99% humidity doesn't help.) I still have 6 metres of oregon (Douglas Fir!) beam sitting here that I'm not sure what I'll do with. Some knees, maybe.

    Also this week I called Botecote to ask their advice about using epoxy on sappy oregon. They didn't know exactly what I was referring to, but said that they've generally never had any problems with oregon, and suggested I do a test piece. Looking on the bright side, since they're not well aware of any potential problems with oregon, odds are the epoxy will stick to the areas I'm concerned about.

    On the subject of Botecote epoxy, I must say I'm pretty impressed with the product. Especially since I found out epoxy can be power sanded with relative ease. I was almost reduced to tears the first time I ever attempted to hand sand a large expanse of epoxied ply! Also, the sandpaper they sell is the best I've ever used, and costs no more than Big Box brand name sandpaper. "Wurst" brand, with dots above the 'u'.
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  13. #57
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    Well I currently have something that looks like a boat. Just screwed together, no glue yet. (Sorry about the photos being on the side, tried but couldn't alter that)

    P3181589.jpg

    Quite happy with it so far. I really like the compound curve that's going on with the sides:

    P3181591.jpg

    Of course, now that I'm ready to make real progress, a heatwave is due to hit in the next few days (38C/100F tomorrow), so I might try to be patient rather than brave and wait til it cools down before I attempt to glue it together.

  14. #58
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    so very lovely!
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  15. #59
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    She is lovely. (Thanks Mik!)

    I did the gluing yesterday. I felt a little under prepared, but I pushed ahead and mixed up the first pot of glue...and four hours later, it turns out I was a little under prepared, but as far as I can tell I've avoided any major disasters. It rained a few hours in, so I had to shut the shed doors, and found myself with torch in one hand and modified tongue depressor in the other, trying to tidy up the glue.

    P3221599.jpg

    I had quite a gap around the stem. So much so I was thinking of making a new stem, but 40mm wide at the top rather than 36mm wide, but that seemed like a lot of work and I've decided to put a cover strip over the stem (after the seat top goes in) to cover up the uneven glue line. No one will ever know.

    P3221598.jpg

    If I screwed the ply any tighter to the stem it would only have created an inward bow in the ply, so I don't think there was any avoiding this gap. (Though now that I think about it, maybe I could have tried moving the stem further forward...)

    I used the inwale timber for bracing instead of the gunwale timber, because the thicker wood required a whole lot of force to bend it around to the stem, I was scared I'd pull the stem apart with hour old glue, and I definitely didn't want to do that. One thing that worked well finishing off was to send a screw through the gunwales tips at the stem to tie them together firmly against the ply.

  16. #60
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    Nice Poit!

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