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Thread: Moreton Bay GIS

  1. #76
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    I too find it a bewildering picture. I think you want the inwale to hit the frame on two sides if possible. That's how mik shows the notch in the plans.
    I spent today trying to figure out whether I had enough spacers. I think I'm short. How many did you use in total Poit?

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  3. #77
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    That picture makes perfect sense, I swear! Here is a pic of the same spot with the inwale glued on. P6021755.jpg I did the side arm notches as shown in the plans, after finally having another look at the plans.

    I went with 28 spacers each side, with the oarlock spacer a bit longer than the others. Just glued the second inwale on yesterday. It's a bigger job than expected with the time it takes to put 3 coats on the inwale and then clean up ooze from 28 x 4 = 112 corners.

    P6021754.jpg

  4. #78
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    I see it now! Funny how hard it was to make head or tail of it in the first pic. The additional context helps a lot.
    I started to notch my frames yesterday but only finished one side, and roughly at that. Now I've got a week to think about everything before I can get back to boatbuilding. I think I need more spacers. I only have 25/side.

  5. #79
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    The boat looks great by the way. Have you decided how you are going to handle the bow piece where the gunwales converge? I've been wishing I took the time to make them meet at a bevel running back to front. My nose looks like yours at the moment, and I'm not sure how to fit a piece in that triangle.

  6. #80
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    28 makes for roughly 70/90 spacing the whole way with the side arms covered. You could probably get away with 25 if you weren't covering the side arms.

    It was hard enough gluing the gunwales on properly without worrying about having them meet at a nice miter join. And I told myself it was the sensible thing to do to have a sacrificial tip on the bow if it ever runs into something. I'm going to attempt to cut a single arrow shaped piece to fit, with the grain running across the boat. Might be easiest to do the final shaping of it after its glued on the boat.

  7. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poit View Post
    It was hard enough gluing the gunwales on properly without worrying about having them meet at a nice miter join. And I told myself it was the sensible thing to do to have a sacrificial tip on the bow if it ever runs into something. I'm going to attempt to cut a single arrow shaped piece to fit, with the grain running across the boat. Might be easiest to do the final shaping of it after its glued on the boat.
    By the looks of the rest of your work, there's no doubt that you'll have a lovely solution. Yes, that tip will be sacrificial unless you take extra steps to prevent it (and I don't think anyone would recommend that). My nose piece broke off during a post-sail hand carry at the boat ramp. We had already inverted the hull for loading onto my trailer (it's my preference for long distance driving) and my "helper" up front dropped the bow. It re-attached well enough.

    Keep up the good work!
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  8. #82
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    I seem to be slowing down the nearer I get to finishing. Fortunately I've got the time to spare at the moment, and I don't have any particular deadline to meet. Turned over the hull recently and chopped a hole in the bottom of the boat.

    P6171764.jpg

    I haven't finished planing the gunwales down yet. I'll finish off the inside after I've painted the outside.

    Had family visit recently and my bro convinced me to get a proper tool sharpener.

    P6171766.jpg

    Life will never be the same again. Of late I've been struggling away with sheets of wet and dry glued to glass, but the epoxy does such a good job blunting edges, it takes an age to remove enough material to get a sharp edge again. Having razor sharp tools, for the first time in my life, puts a whole new spin on the woodworking game. Especially when it only takes 5 minutes to go from blunt to sharp. I'll have to be extra careful with the chisels now though, or it'll be off to the emergency ward I go...

    I weighed the hull the other day - 62kg - with realistically another 10kg to go for the bare painted and varnished hull. So I've started making decisions to save a little weight, rather than add weight (eg bottom runners are meranti, not tas oak). I'd always planned to glass the bottom of the hull - we've got lots of shells on the sand flats where I am, and before you know it you find yourself scraping your vessel over the top of them in order to get the vessel into or out of the sea, so I figured glassing the bottom might save a few tears in the long run.

    I couldn't find any extra wide fibreglass of the right weight, and as I was laying the metre wide cloth I'd bought over the boat, I hatched a cunning plan to work around the lack of width. Rather than add an extra sliver of cloth on one side of the boat, I cut long slits in the cloth where the bottom runners sit, and pulled the cloth wider.

    P6201767.jpg

    Unconventional, but it seems to have worked. The cloth I got was 85gsm, .5kg in weight, and it didn't take much to fill the weave, so I don't think it's a huge addition in weight overall.

    P6221771.jpg

    Tossing up whether to spend the extra money on 2 pack paint atm. And whether to buy big tins or small tins (4l or 1 litre). The scrooge in me doesn't know which way to turn.

  9. #83
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    Poit, while you've been slowing down I've been speeding up. I painted the outside of my hull over the weekend. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434972847.862474.jpg
    Two coats of one-part PU paint used up less than one liter in my case. A third coat would have required breaking into the second liter can I bought.
    I hope that's a useful data point.
    I decided to glass just the front of my bottom, basically the area in front of the runners. Most of the areas I plan to sail have pretty harsh bottoms, and I know that the boat will take some abuse pulling up to shore. And I had some lightweight cloth left over from doing the foils so I threw it on there. We'll see what effect it has.

  10. #84
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    Hey Brian, I've noticed you've been going ahead in leaps and bounds over on FB, it's looking good judging by your latest pics. It'll be a good experiment to see what difference the part glassed section makes.

    Sounds like small tins of paint is the way to go. Especially if I go with 2 pack, because apparently it doesn't keep too well once you've opened the tins.

  11. #85
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    I think one liter should do you but I do t know how the coverage compares with the one part I used.
    I need more varnish though. At least 2 liters, maybe three, to do the inside and spars and foils.

  12. #86
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    Progress ground to a halt there for a while, but I'm all fired up now with the finish line in sight. All I have to do is put the final coat of varnish on the hull, and screw and tie everything else together. But we're currently in the middle of a heat wave at the moment, so the final coat will have to wait a few days. (Isn't it the way - when I was furiously procrastinating the weather was perfect for varnishing, but now I'm motivated to finish, it's 35C and 90% humidity!)

    When I'm worried about messing up the next thing I'm about to do, I tend to procrastinate. And for good reason too - I tend to mess up the next thing I do, just like I feared I would. Bad news is there are overlaps and imperfections galore in the paint job. Good news is it's two pack paint, so the imperfections will be there for many years to come without need of repainting.
    P1011862_1.jpg

    Was happy with the tip of the bow - took me ages to find the right bit of wood for the job, which turned out to be from a treated hardwood fence rail offcut.
    P1011868_1.jpg
    PC011879.jpg
    PB131875.jpg
    PC011882.jpg

  13. #87
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    That's some tidy work on the bow there poit, well done. I'm waiting for the second lamination on my gunwales to cure and whilst I'm intrigued by the the deadly pointy look I've got now I've also thought about cutting a dovetailed tip in, kinda like yours, to round the nose off. I just don't think I'll be able to do it neatly. It was hard enough getting the glue line between all four gunwale laminations straight and on the centreline, and without being gappy. We'll see.

    Anyway, glad your thread popped up again because reading a few posts back has cleared up how to do my side arm notches v's inwales. Cheers

  14. #88
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    Thanks, Canoath! I'd stick with the pointy nose if you've already got it there - there's always time to do a round dovetail nose if you ever ding up the nose! (Cutting away the material to make room for the dovetail tip would be the trickiest part. I had a few practice runs with scrap wood at shaping the tip itself, but it wasn't too hard to do.)

  15. #89
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    5 days of stinking hot weather, followed by 10 days of 20 knot winds aimed straight at the garage door (which needs to be open so I can see what I'm doing), followed by more stinking hot weather. So I've been holding off on the varnishing for quite a while, but I cannae hold off any longer. I've started getting up at the crack of dawn, and adding thinners to the pot, and now am coming perilously close to finishing the hull. A few days left yet though. My workload doubled when I realised it'd need 2 coats to get back to full gloss after a relatively heavy sand - I was initially hoping to get away with one coat.

    I've used Goldspar on the spars, and Norglass polyclear gloss on the hull. The goldspar was lovely to apply and get good results, but requires 10 coats, and seems to be pretty soft, whereas the poly clear only requires 5 or 6 coats and makes for a pretty tough surface (a sheet of sandpaper would last indefinitely sanding the goldspar, and mere minutes sanding the norglass), but I'll have to perfect my application technique next boat I build, I'm afraid.

    Need to decide where to locate the saddle for the downhaul, and which one to use, I have a choice:
    P2181902.jpg
    Any suggestions? The spot Mik specifies to the left of the mast base is the right place to put it - as central as possible to the full pivot of the boom - but I'm doing a vang with a moderate bleater, with a triple cleat block, and I've noticed others put the anchor more towards the rear of the mast base to avoid the block hitting the mast when running on a port tack(?). See here for example:

    But that makes it asymetrical, and will automatically increase the downhaul force the more downwind you go on a starboard tack. Though I don't know much this matters.

    I've got a u bolt/tow hook sitting there - far too big, I guess - and also an eye plate, as well as the small saddle. Given the extra lateral forces introduced with the vang set up, I'm wondering if I should go for the eye plate instead of the saddle. Will the correctly installed saddle really do the job satisfactorily, or should I opt for the bigger and far uglier eye plate?

    Also, I pulled the scales out and weighed the painted and almost completely varnished boat today - 76kg. I can live with that. The finished mast comes in at 8.5kg or so - I can live with that too.

  16. #90
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    Actually, I dimly recall now a recent drunken night with a sheet of graph paper and pencil, and I think I figured out that where I put the eye plate in the attached pic, at the south-west/7:30 o'clock mark, diagonally between port and aft at the mast base, with a vang set up, is equidistant between the boom being fully one way and fully the other. So I think that's where it needs to be put. I think.

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