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I'll accept cleaning up the boat but sweeping the floor ... that's just horrible
Hmm, with the weather we're getting at the moment, working in the car port would be hell ... especially considering the river that habitually runs through it every time it drizzles.
Fortunuately the "river" of runoff runs along 10% of the side and across the front third of the carport, and it's much cooler than "hell" when there's any wind.
My PDRacer sits on 4 wood blocks just in case of heavy rain, and generally doesn't get wet, but the wind, when it blows, blows dirt and leaves all through the carport.
I plan to enclose the rear half temporarily with polytarps when I need to do the painting later, but generally just make do ( in the Australian tradition ).
I have a small "workshop" set up in 1 room, with light duty workbenches etc., where I can work on smaller projects, and keep my tools ( almost like having a small "shed" ), it sometimes gets quite messy in there.
Today I glued the fore deck into position, completing the front buoyancy chamber.
I cut and attached some ply to the sloping sides of the carlins ( fore and aft of the rear buoyancy chambers ), to make the entire lengths of the carlins the same thickness ( this is not in the plans, but it looks much neater ).
I also cut the front section of coaming ( attaches to the top rear of the fore deck between the carlins ), to be attached after filling the screw holes in the decks.
It looks like a boat now, I am going to need to think about starting the next stages, shaping the foils, making the rudder box ,tiller, and hinges, and the mast and booms ( all wooden parts have already been cut for these, and the foil blank laminated ).
Great progress David.
You sound happy about that! Me too.
Storer Wooden Boat Plans subforum on UBeaut Woodwork Forums
My boat Website
Treasure trove of boat project photos on flickr
Goat Island Skiff on Facebook
I removed the temporary screws, filled all the screw holes in all three deck panels, and filled anything else that looked like needing it today.
I have been thinking about extending the gunwales across the bow ( I have a suitable piece of timber for this ), as they are on some blunt bow type tenders, this would also add extra impact protection when navigating close ( or too close ) to jettys etc.
I have just finished sanding back the deck and carlin edges, filled and sanded temporary screw holes on the decks, added the front coaming and extension of the gunwhale around the bow ( my own addition ).
The deck looks almost complete now, I still need to glass tape the deck joins, and do a bit more filling before epoxy coating and sanding the decks for the last time, I will det some of this done tomorrow.
I finished off the fibreglass tape reinforcing of the deck joins, and filled the last removed screw holes today.
To make the deck reinforced joins I used the following method, which seems to have worked very well:
I made the roughly 1mm deep trenches to recess the fibreglass tape ( as per the plans ) for the 2 deck joins using a "Dremel" type drill ( with a mini drum sander tool ).
I poured in and spread an extra thick layer of resin, and left it to find its own level ( positioned hull to facilitate this ), for about 1 hour before rollering in the fibreglass tape.
I then poured and spread another extra thick layer of resin to slightly overfill the remaining depth of the recess and left it to find its own level ( no filler should now be required - just a sand to final smoothness when resin is cured overnight ), I did it this way because I have no "easily sandable filler" at present.
I hope this alternative method proves useful to some of you.
I have at last got the decks finished ( still need to be sanded and given the final epoxy coat before painting ), I have just updated my website with a few new pictures, the main one showing the enlarged size picture of the whole hull is below.
As you can see it looks like a OZ MK 2 PDRacer now.
Next step is to roll it over and open up the centreboard slot, before adding some low profile skids ( 8mm deep floor reinforcements ), and glass taping the hull seams.
Gee Dave, you did a good job of that fake wood grain over the fibreglass hull
Looking good mate. Any thoughts on when she'll hit the water, or are you like me and work on 'one week after she's finished'
I hope to have her ready to sail by about Christmas.
Or about 'one week after she's finished', if either before or after Christmas.
I have been concentrating on construction of the hull so far, I still have to make the mast, boom, yard, rudder box, etc., and shape the foils ( all major wooden parts are cut / foil blanks made ).
I have all the fittings, mounting hardware, paints, rigging, and sail, just waiting to be used.
As I needed to flip the hull over to finish working on the bottom, I decided to weigh the hull first.
I used a set of digital bathroom scales to weigh the hull using the following method:
I first stood the hull on It's side, and supported it on two blocks of wood under each end.
Then I placed two smaller blocks of wood on the scales, and positioned them under the middle of the side of the hull ( making certain I could read the display first ).
To start the scales it was neccessary to press on them first ( this turns them on and automatically sets the zero point ).
Then I quickly removed the wooden blocks from under each end of the hull to do the actual weight measurement ( hull is now supported only on the two smaller bocks on the scales - the weight of the two smaller blocks was deducted automatically by the scales automatic zero point adjustment ).
I was expecting it to weigh about 35 Kg max., as it turned out it actually weighs 40.2 Kg( I still need to add the fibreglass tape reinforcements on all of the hull seams, the third coat of resin all over, and my last modification, three 8 mm x 30 mm rubbing strips/floor reinforcements to finish off contruction ).
My modifications all added stength etc. to the design, so I expected my PDRacer to pay some weight penalty as a result, or maybe it was my choice of timber ( Durien ) but I didn't expect it to be 5+ Kg heavier.
Has anyone else weighed their resin coated PDRacer hull yet ?, if so, was it lighter ?, or heavier ?.
I measured mine, it weighs 33 kg.
Ours were 55lbs with the lighter bottom that was later replaced with 6mm marine ply.
Your PDRacers were 55lb = 25.5 Kg approx. ( I don't think they were epoxy coated either ), how much weight difference does the epoxy coating add ?.
My question was about the weight of an OZ PDRacer with epoxy coated hull, to compare to mine.
They were epoxy coated with three coats. They were entirely of karri hardwood ply which was 4mm, but is a heavy hardwood but compensated because the ply was thin.
Later we took the bottoms off and replaced with gaboon and when painted the boats completely and put the fittings on .. we did measure them then and they were up around 62 for one and the other was a couple of pounds heavier.
The PDR in some ways is much less sensitive to slight changes in weight compared to most classes. The time you really see it in normal racing classes in the transition between non planing and planing. A lighter boat makes that jump a lot more easily - more smoothly. However the PDR already tends to be a bit jumpy as it jumps suddenly from one mode to another because of the speed restriction of the curvy bottom.
The PDR gets its efficiency from the foils and sail/spar combination. Your boat will give very little distance away to ones a few pounds lighter.
Also just found out that there are a whole lot of different ranges for durian - so this is possibly where the difference is
465 to 865 kg m http://info.frim.gov.my/cfdocs/infoc...tb/TTBNO13.PDF
But it is not a biggie - the boat will sail nice and be good fun even with a bit of extra weight.
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