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| Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans For the multitude of wooden boat fans that use, and need info on Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans. Put your questions etc here and they will be answered and dealt with quicker and easier by the man himself and others in the know. |  | | 
8th Aug 2008, 01:43 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Nick's PD Racer Hi everyone.
I have been thinking about one of these since i started the eureka..
I was down at the beach, eating a pie for lunch, and saw a bunch of people from the sailing club learning... It got me all inspired!
So I bought the plans, and so it begins again.... | 
8th Aug 2008, 04:40 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | Geez Nick
Some people are fashion victims ...
I'm not quite sure what sort of victim you are!
(cool and good luck!!!)
MIK | 
13th Aug 2008, 08:48 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Hi.
Would Paulownia be adequate(strong enough) for the mast and boom?
And Mast Step and Mast Partner?
Can I get a copy of the rigging guide as well please?
Thanks | 
14th Aug 2008, 09:39 AM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | Howdy Nick,
Paulownia will be fine for joining up any two pieces of ply. But where the timber is only glued to ply along one face it is usually providing a stiffness/strength function.
So those bits need to be of something stronger. ie mast, boom, and partner and step.
Also the transverse timbers across the boat at the centrecase and also the carlins need to be something about the stiffness of Hoop Pine.
Pic from the files for inspiration
I would probably consider doing the gunwales in Hoop or similar too because of the chance of them being knocked around.
Photographic rigging guide is here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik/collections/
And the list of parts is here http://pdracer.blogspot.com/2007/08/...for-oz-pd.html
Best wishes
Michael
MIK | 
14th Aug 2008, 07:15 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Thanks Mik...
There is a timber merchant in town that has Hoop... I phoned them, but they said it has a fair few knots in... Ill have to go down and have a look for myself... | 
15th Aug 2008, 12:53 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | HI Mik,
I just printed out the foil profile page and measured the line, it came to 150.5mm
Now what? I tried to resize the image to suit, but my printer driver wont allow it...
Thanks. | 
15th Aug 2008, 03:18 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | Anyone with this problem can measure the line and then email me with the measurement.
If you look on my webpage there is a link of "contact me" on the left side or you can simply click my name "Boatmik" on the left here to have the chance to email me.
By the way ,,, knots are not a problem in any of the bits of timber that can be fingerjointed in my list above.
Michael | 
19th Aug 2008, 05:42 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Well time to get started.
I went and got some ply; 2x4mm &1x6mm of BS1088 OKOUME MARINE PLY
4mm = $42.0
6mm = $58.00
Also, I work at a school, and the manual arts department have all the hoop pine I could ever want, and its pretty clear, only a couple of knots per 6m length, if any...
68mmX12mm @ $1.40 \m (4 of 6m for mast)
45mmX19mm @ $1.64 \m (5 of 6m for most other bits...)
Also ordered the 'pox and glass from duckflatwoodenboats, and a tarp.
And then I also got some 3mm angle to make the boat side fittings. Any idea where I can get some 6mm SS rod? got any spare?
Cheers. | 
19th Aug 2008, 08:30 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | | 
20th Aug 2008, 11:09 AM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Thanks Mik, didnt think... I found some sort of steel rod laying in my office, should do the trick for now...
Also, I dont mean to be a pain, I've been looking over the plans, and I see in the drawings there is mention of a Centrecase Brace, but nothing about it on the timber list?
And the timber list has the stern bottom cleat at 19X22, but the drawing has it at 19X45...
Thanks. | 
21st Aug 2008, 12:19 AM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | The centrecase brace is the top part of Frame #1 that supports the top of the centrecase with the strut across the boat.
I stuff up the names of things sometimes - quite possible with the amount I have to write. I'll see if I can fix it next time round.
The stern bottom cleat can be 19 x22 as a minimum .. it is to allow it to be bevelled for the bottom of the boat. No problem if you go to 19 x 45.
Best wishes
Michael | 
21st Aug 2008, 06:57 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Thanks Mik.
I think I'm going to use 45x19 for the top and bottom of the stern, i.e., the outboard motor mod....
I started marking out the ply today.... | 
9th Sep 2008, 09:08 PM
|  | Senior Member | | Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Rockhampton, Australia
Posts: 223
| | Hi Mik and Others.
I'm just getting this PDR together now and starting to work on the centre case...
Now the foil is 280mm, the case sides are 356mm, leaving 76mm, with 2x 25mm supports that leaves a gap of 26mm between the c-case and the c-board. Is that correct? I would imagine that would create a fair bit of fore and aft slop?
Thanks in advance.
Nick. | 
9th Sep 2008, 11:53 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| | We slipped a wooden block made out of 19mm thick stock to slip down the back of the centrecase and hold with a single screw through the side of the centrecase near the top.
Make the piece of timber the right size to allow just 6 to 10 mm clearance with the back of the centreboard. adjust the piece so that it is flush with the bottom of the boat.
Don't glue it in.
MIK | 
10th Sep 2008, 12:46 AM
|  | AJ | | Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Adelaide SA Age: 49
Posts: 1,161
| | er.... why the spacer block MIK ?
AJ |  | |
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