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  1. #166
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

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    Great advice here that I can't improve upon but since you mention researching roll and tip, let me add this: it is really very intuitive once you get started. You'll see the tiny little bubbles left in the roller's wake and you'll be dismayed. You'll already have feel for how sticky the paint is so lightly brushing (or, gasp!, re-rolling) will come easily. It's taken longer for me to write this than it did to get the feel for tipping off my (one-part) paint. You'll come to see how large an area you can cover before you have to go back and tip, but it will never be very large. I tended to have both tools, roller and brush, in my hands most of the time.

    Keep up the good work!


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    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

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  3. #167
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

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    I can just offer one tip if using the International Perfection 2 pack. Because it dries very slowly, it's best applied in a dust free environment. I found that it wasn't necessary to use the roll and tip method like for other products like the 1 pot Toplac which is touch dry in a couple of hours. Just use a roller and the bubbles eventually disappear as the surface flattens out perfectly. If you get any runs or imperfections, don't be tempted to rub these out before the next coat, just paint straight over them. The finish will build and you can make the finish perfect by wet sanding and going through the grades after the 3rd coat. I finished with 2000 grade using an orbital sander and the finish was nothing short of stunning. It is super tough too so should last for many years, but of course this depends on how many rocks you encounter along the way!

    My brother also followed this process for his Paper Tiger cat. He saved heaps of time and reported that the finish looks like it was a spray booth job.


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  4. #168
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

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    I love this place. You build a little boat which is fun and fun to use and make friends all over the world at the same time. How can it get better than that?

  5. #169
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Eustis, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,270

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    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    . . . How can it get better than that?
    If they sent you money for no apparent reason, regularly, maybe offered a phone number to their finacially independate, former model, unmarried sister, who thinks boatbuilders are the end all of craftsman. Just saying . . .

  6. #170
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

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    I think I may have made a serious error and I don't know how. I have looked at pics of other builds and have become concerned that my centerboard case is too close to the #2 bulkhead. It is 390 mm from the back of bulkhead #2 to the front of the centerboard case. In pictures it looks like it should be more like 500 mm. Which is correct, how will it effect the performance of the boat if I leave it and how difficult is it going to be to correct if I decide to. The seat is not glued down but the centerboard case is. I have enough materials to build a new #3 bulkhead and for that matter a new centerboard case. Should I to that and move it back? How do I get the old bulkhead and centerboard case out of there?


    I measured all of this three times during construction and can't understand how I wound up in the wrong place. All help is greatly appreciated.

  7. #171
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

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    Yours in the pictures looks right to me. But don't go by pictures, check the plans. Mine have been long misplaced or buried and the boat is under winter cover so I can't measure.

    If yours really is too close to #2 it is probably due to bulkhead 3 being too far forward--a very unlikely error IMO. BH 2 should be a few inches behind the butt splice.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
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  8. #172
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    It is 390 mm from the back of bulkhead #2 to the front of the centerboard case. In pictures it looks like it should be more like 500 mm. Which is correct, how will it effect the performance of the boat if I leave it and how difficult is it going to be to correct if I decide to.
    Don't do anything drastic, I think you're good. My boat is absolutely buried under snow right now, and I would check, but I don't have a lot of room myself up in there. 15" sounds about right. Relax. Someone will come along with a measurement soon, I'm sure.

  9. #173
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Florida Panhandle
    Posts
    20

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    My centrecase is 534mm measured from the aft ply face of BH # 2 to the fwd face of the centrecase front gusset. Maybe yours is correct and mine is wrong. Someone else will chime in soon.

  10. #174
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    Posts
    100

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    Calculating from the drawings, the distance between bulkhead 2 and the forward most part of the centreboard case should be 541mm. Accounting for the thickness of one bulkhead and roddyhd1's 534mm seems correct. Your 390mm seems very strange. Difficult to imagine where those 150 mm disappeared. I think you'd better do some measuring...

    Pontus

  11. #175
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

  12. #176
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

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    I originally became concerned I might be off by observing the distance between the forward edge of the seat and back edge of the butt strap. The 541 measurement seems right to me. I was just wondering how much 150 mm will make in the performance of the boat. It is going to take some pretty drastic work to tear all of that out and redo it. Any comments on that?

    Thanks for taking a look this.

    Much snow disappeared last two days. Spring just might be on the way and we can sail.

  13. #177
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    77

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    I checked the distance on my boat and it measures 540mm give or take a couple for the headlamp and laying on the floor.

  14. #178
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    Posts
    100

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    If the distance is too short since bulkhead two is too far backwards, your boat will be a bit pointier at the front. Won't matter that much. If on the other hand bulkhead three is too far forward, your centreboard will be too much forward, and that I suppose will cause excessive weather helm. Might not be more than can be trimmed out by attaching the sail a bit more forward, and perhaps making the centreboard lean a bit more backwards?

  15. #179
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    126

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    G'day
    I accidentally put Bhd 3 in the wrong location, 30 cm fwd of where it is supposed to be . I hope you haven't made a similar mistake; however it's not unrecoverable, you'll just need to cut out the centrecase patch the bottom and go again. It took me about a week of 2 hour nights to fix it. Details are on my gis yawl thread.
    Cheers Dan

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  16. #180
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

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    I am about 15 CM short of where I should be with #3. I am wondering just how much that will effect the helm. I have drilled a couple of guide holes in the bottom but have not cut the whole slot for the center board. I just don't know how to get the whole thing out of there. If the helm will not be effected that much, I'm not going to do it. However, I need to do something (or not) soon so I can get moving.

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