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  1. #136
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,759

    Default

    Probably the most critical part of the build is getting the bottom on, or at least it was for me. The structure is still pretty wobbly at this stage, so time spent getting the thing level and square will be rewarded. Winding sticks are a great tool for getting it levelled and chocked. To make sure it was square I measured from the transom corners to the opposite bulkhead corners and had to use a ratchet block and rope to pull it square. Two people at this point would have been great, but I managed on my own somehow. Definitely choose the longest setting hardener you can as there are a lot of screws to drive, and afterwards you have to crawl under the hull and clean up all the excess poxy. You'll need a shower cap. If you have to ask what for, you have no imagination (I didn't!). If the poxy is going off too quickly, as mine was in 35 degree heat, it's the definitely the least fun stage!

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  3. #137
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    You are just in the nick of time. I was headed out the door to put the bottom on. If I wait until tomorrow morning, the temp will be perfect for a slow "cook" on the epoxy and will give me plenty of time to get it squared away and have time to work everything. Thanks for the heads up. I will also round up a helper. I have it on a trailer that is solid so we have good hookups to pull any way we need to and hold it until things cure in place.

  4. #138
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Squaring up the bottom. Lots of shavings on the ground. The draw knife was a great aid here. I was able to rough in the framing in a matter of minutes than take my time and get it right with the plane. Level and tight line to make sure we have it right. Dry fit on the bottom before we get serious.004.jpg003.jpg

  5. #139
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default We Have a Baby Goat at our House

    Dry fit the bottom then glue and screw and we are in business. We have a new baby goat. Much growing yet to do but we have come a long say. It looks fast just sitting on the trailer.006.jpg005.jpg008.jpg011.jpg

  6. #140
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Because of deteriorating weather, we moved the goat inside for the winter for finishing. The weather is suppose to go below 0 C tomorrow night so we are done outside for now. I thought I had a twist in the hull so built a perfectly level cradle for the goat to rest on inside. Once moved in, I did have a 6 - 7 mm lift on one side in the bow. I clamped it to the cradle for two nights and the bottom is perfectly flat and level now. I string lined it as well as leveling it and am pretty impressed with where we are now. In the pictures you can see how level we are. I'm lining up the centercase with the string line and put the tank tops in just to see how they fit. Much slow nibbling ahead to get them properly in place. Still, there is much progress.001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg004.jpg006.jpg007.jpgA couple of questions. How do I determine the correct placement of the mast step and partner to get the correct angle of the mast? How do I clean up between varnish coats when I am inside and unable to wash the sanded areas down? I'm getting the cart before the horse here, but want time to think about this before I jump into it.

  7. #141
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    The plan's dimensions for the step and partner are such that the rake results naturally. I haven't reviewed the plans in awhile but IIRC each hole has a distance to the edge of the part described. The edge is essentially the bulkhead face. As designed, the bulkheads are vertical (and the tank tips horizontal). As long as your two pieces butt up against the bulkheads (fore and aft) you'll be placing the cutouts where they're supposed to be.

    I don't know that there's much if any rake to our masts, but I have to imagine there's not a specific, critical angle that must be adhered to. Consider that the rig itself can and should be adjusted fore and aft to suit your boats behavior. Mast rake becomes a non-player in the equation. My humble opinion (TM).


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    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  8. #142
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by davlafont View Post
    The plan's dimensions for the step and partner are such that the rake results naturally. I haven't reviewed the plans in awhile but IIRC each hole has a distance to the edge of the part described. The edge is essentially the bulkhead face. As designed, the bulkheads are vertical (and the tank tips horizontal). As long as your two pieces butt up against the bulkheads (fore and aft) you'll be placing the cutouts where they're supposed to be.

    I don't know that there's much if any rake to our masts, but I have to imagine there's not a specific, critical angle that must be adhered to. Consider that the rig itself can and should be adjusted fore and aft to suit your boats behavior. Mast rake becomes a non-player in the equation. My humble opinion (TM).


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free
    Prezactly.

    I had a one inch error in the lines I used to establish the position of bulkhead 2 which resulted in it leaning aft. I didn't find this until I had cut the holes for the mast and stuck an off-cut from the mast through the holes. It was leaning back--a bunch. I fretted for a while and emailed MIK about it and eventually found what had gone wrong. I had not yet installed the seat top so it was a simple matter to fill the hole in the partner and re-cut the hole an inch further forward.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  9. #143
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    That's timely information. I was going to start on the partner today or tomorrow, well soon anyway. I will measure to make sure where I am before whacking any holes in things. Currently I'm working the tank top into position.

  10. #144
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    I will measure to make sure where I am before whacking any holes in things.
    Good policy.

  11. #145
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    25

    Default mast

    Middle Ages Man, I seem to recall that you used a converted flagpole for your mast. how has it worked? do you recommend this mod?

  12. #146
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    I used flagpoles (freestanding) on my Gazelle with great success. They were 8 inch tapered poles with a wall thickness of .187 inches. They each carried a 400sf junk sail with no problems.

    With that experience I felt confident that the 17 foot tapered pole I found for the GIS was more than adequate. The wall thickness was excessive IMO, .125 inches, but since I couldn't find a lighter extrusion I went with it. It weighed about 18 pounds before fittings and paint so it had a pretty good weight advantage over the original 3 1/2 inch solid round spar. A significant weight advantage and a nice windage advantage (3 inches vs. 3 1/2 inches) led me to conclude the aluminum pole would be a winner.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  13. #147
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Where did you find the pole? When I look online, I see a lot of sectional aluminum flagpole kits.

  14. #148
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default

    I started to cut the partner yesterday and thought I would cut a gage to use on the mast to make sure I had the hole the right size. What I found was my hole was too big by about 4 mm. Is that correct or should I cut it tight to size? I was thinking I would cut and place the partner then position the mast step with my stone masons six foot level so it was vertical. I drilled the corners (hollow square mast) then used a saw for the cut out. I need to position my drill better for better results.

  15. #149
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    You haven't built the mast yet, right? Probably better to cut the hole per the plan and use your actual mast to decide if the hole needs adjusting afterward. If I've learned anything (and that's a big if...) it's that wood work is not a precise science. One strives to be accurate and precise, but the formerly living entity known as wood has a funny way of imposing its own way at times.

    I found the both my partner and step needed some additional clearancing once I introduced my mast. Then again after my first sail when I discovered that it was hard to pull it out (de-step?). I used a dremel and touched up the epoxy afterward.


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    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  16. #150
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by phoran View Post
    Where did you find the pole? When I look online, I see a lot of sectional aluminum flagpole kits.
    I picked mine up in Florida but just keep looking. I found sectionals, too, but there should be one-piece units out there. I could never ID the vendor at this stage--to many years and failed PCs between that purchase and today. )

    Google "15 foot aluminum flagpoles" and you should find them. Remember, they sell flagpoles by the exposed length, not the overall length. A "15 foot kit" will have an overall length around 17 feet.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

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