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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default The Northstar GIS Build

    Bob's right, the dimensions are there. How you shape your lumber is what's missing. I had to laminate some pieces together to get a square sectioned blank. After cutting it to length, I traced the two triangles on either end and then planed the piece from one triangle to the other. The result is a bit of a twist and taper. In the end, it's very intuitive; not let the... economy of verbiage... worry you.


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    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    21

    Default

    I had been curious/nervous about the stem since I first read some build reports. Once you mark the center line and dive in it really isn't so bad. I marked the centerline and then used my japanese razor saw to rough cut the angle, then went to work with my block plane. Seems like a table saw with a bevel would help speed the process, if you have one.

    I have one side pretty much done, but I think I need to sharpen my plane again. It got to the point where it just didn't seem like it would bite into the wood any more.

    Joe

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Now the difficult part of the build is over you can relax and enjoy the rest of it!

    MIK

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default Stem

    Well, not quite. I'm still staring at figure 7.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default Foil Template

    I was able to print the template to the correct size so I'm ready to glue things up, dependening on the arrival of the epoxy.

    Thanks for the help.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default The Plywood is Here!!!

    Can you believe it, I ordered on March 20 and it is my basement with two sheets on the work bench ready to mark. I first sorted to find the best grain patterns to use for the seat and tank tops as I intend to finish them clear. The six sheets had not a single void visible on the margins and was in beautiful shape.

    The supplier: Marine Plywood by Homestead is in Vickery, Ohio near Sandusky and did a terrific job for me. I could find no one closer and the local lumber yards were clueless, trying to get me to take their Oregon marine plywood.

    I'm going to sharpen the pencil and get started right now. Pics to follow.

    Jerry

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    It is always exciting to hear of plywood being delivered.

    But I'm super excited because it sounds like really nice stuff!

    Well done!

    MIK

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default The Race is On - Ninty day deadline until we hit the water

    Well my friend Ken came over yesterday afternoon and we marked out the hull panels and the bottom. We had some difficulties deciding if we had things correct. There seems to be a bit of a reverse curve near the transom. In all it was only a mm or two so thought we would just cut it "fat" and let it take care of itself when we started putting things together. All in all, it felt like a big day.

    The fiberglass also came, now if the epoxy would just show up. Actually I have more to do than I can get done so it really doesn't matter for a few days.

    Shown below - faint markings and rows of nails. Not shown - wife on edge because of carpet.

    002.JPG001.jpg

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Northstar View Post
    There seems to be a bit of a reverse curve near the transom.
    You're correct. It never hurts to re-check your work, but what you found is what some of us have refered to to as MIK's secret sauce. The complex 3D shape he designed was intentional and translates to the interesting 2D curves you've discovered.

    Here's something to consider (my own observation FWIW): the hull sides are the driving factor in the 3D shape. The hull bottom will lay flat across them (after planing the edges level) and you will trim the bottom to match whatever shape the sides define. So... the markings on the bottom panel are guidelines at best. They keep you from incorrectly using the two sheets and help reduce the assembly to the minimum size necessary. But... you can rest assured that no matter how you draw those lines on the bottom panel, the hull is going to take the shape it intends to based on the cut and planing of the sides' edges.
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Dave explains so well! Thankyou Dave!

    Yes .. the thing to look for in measuring is that one nail point seems out of line. If one is out of line compared to the ones either side then that is a mistake.

    If the batten tells you the line is fair then the points you have marked are right. Like Dave says - if a group are consistent with the rest of the curve then that is where you want to trim down to.

    Don't plane the lines off though except for very final fairing. When the hull goes together you will find those little concaves end up representing a totally fair line in 3D in terms of the curve of the chine vertically and horizontally. So if you don't have the correct 2D shape the 3D shape won't be quite as good as intended.

    But excellent on the checking and rechecking.

    Michael

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default Fillers and thickeners

    I have never used fillers before and am confused about how to mix them. Some products call for adding fillers to the epoxy before adding hardner and others say mix the epoxy and hardner then add the fillers. Is there a right way or does it really make any difference?

    I'm going to fabricate the boom and yard very soon plus start on the mast so need to know how to do this right.

    Thanks,

    Jerry

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    178

    Default

    I mix the epoxy first (2 parts which are both in liquid form as far as i know) to ensure it will set and harden. I would say that epoxy is actually the product you have once you've mixed it's 2 parts together - the base compound and the hardener in whatever ratio that the manufacturer states. I use the largest syringes available (one for each part) when mixing for control and accuracy (even when it is a ratio by weight). Does this help resolve your confusion about the hardener?

    When epoxy is mixed a bit, I will then add filler powder until I get the consistency I require - slightly runny for glueing strong joints (with a strong bonding filer), very runny for fairing (I.e. easy sanding for smooth finish before painting using light filler), or thick when doing fillets (using whatever junk filler I have and adding a few drops of staining to get colour to match the wood).

    Mik's instructions in his plans are pretty good and after the first attempt I think you should get the picture. I suggest you slowly add the powder, mixing each small amount in, so that you see how much powder you need to add to get a consistency you want to work with.

    Hope this helps.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New London, Minnesota
    Posts
    181

    Default Fabricating

    I finally got around to actually putting something together instead of sawing it apart. I fabricated the boom and yard following Theodor's instructions on mixing and filling and hope it turns out OK. I have some cold weather epoxy that I keep around and it needed to be used up anyway. I used wood powder and colloidal silica filler and made a thick paste. I also followed West Systems instructions on glueing things together. The results are a couple of gooy staves with plenty oozing out the crack. 003.jpg002.jpg

    I'm lucky in that I have an old steel trailer that has a ten foot bed and is absolutely square and flat. After clamping the staves together, I added some persuaders to keep it from squirming around. It is about 4 C today so this cold weather stuff should be rock hard by tomorrow morning.

    I found a really helpful thing at the lumber yard yesterday. It is a paint bucket with removable liners. I used a felt tipped marker to set my fill lines for my epoxy and hardner then mixed away. I coated the staves with a thin film of epoxy and let it set while I mixed the wood flour and silica into the pot. I used the plastic bag method to spread this thickened goo on the staves. I have a learning curve here but it is worth while and I will get better. This live run gave me some experience in estimating how much epoxy to mix at a time and using the bags. After that it was just clamp and add the weight to keep everything true.

    001.jpg

    Clean up was a snap with the baggie and the paint cup liner dumped in the dust bin.

    Paulie, notice the useless work bench in the background with the piles of junk on top.

    I'm not sure how much I am going to get done in the next few days as I am working 3d shift three of the next four days. What ever I do will not involve a lot of thinking.

    Jerry

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    New Jersey, USA
    Posts
    767

    Default The Northstar GIS Build

    Good choice practicing your glue techniques on the spars. Better than "learning" with hull.

    Keep up the good work!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dave
    StorerBoat Builder, Sailor, Enthusiast
    Dave's GIS Chronicles | Dave's Lugs'l Chronicles | Dave's StorerBoat Forum Thread

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Main special variation from what you did this time is gluing end grain. It is covered in the appendices.

    You'll get that now you have gluing more under your belt.

    Michael

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