Thread: The Northstar GIS Build

Thanks MIK, I will get on it right after the chine logs go on tomorrow. Still on schedule for 90 days. I want it ready when the sail gets here.

Since the weather stays so rotten (snow predicted 5 of the next 7 days), I am doing all I can inside before moving outside. Here are the hull panels, one with one coat of epoxy and one with two and the chine log attached.

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I prefer a pad instead of a roller because it is a little quicker and easier to use than skidding a roller. Tomorrow, I will attach the other chine log and pre-finish the other side of these two.

My good friend Jim is a master carpenter and made this wonderful set of mast insert blocks for me.

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The time to make friends is before you need them. I'm going to have to complete this sail boat by summer because I am going to owe so many boat rides it will take all summer.

Boatmik - Is this enough curve on the trailing edge or do I need to go a little deeper?

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Piles of curls.

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The knife edge.

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Time to get busy on framing and bulkheads.Attachment 264256

I have to set things up once in a while just to mark progress. Here are the completed bulkheads ready to glue sitting next to the hull panels.

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I have to work today so will cut bevels tomorrow and pre-finish then on to spars and centreboard case.

You will find it easier to cut the tiller slot before you assemble. (Just in case you hadn't considered that.)

It's looking good. I did the epoxy coating after assembly and had way too many runs and drips that had to be scrapped and sanded out. It's definitely a plus to do the coating while you can lay everything flat.

As an example of the strength of joins done on bare wood vs. coated wood, when I was putting on the spacers and inwales I had lots of globs of thickened epoxy fall down onto the sides and bottom. The sides were coated with epoxy by that point and the globs were easily knocked off with a single blow from the chisel. The globs that landed on the uncoated bottom required many passes with the chisel or scraper. Trying to take the entire glob off with a single stroke of the chisel resulted in some wood coming off with the glob.

That is very good information. I was planning to cut the tiller slot and the cut outs for the bulkheads after one coat of epoxy. Then I'm going to sand smooth and finish the pre-coat. I had a difficult time scraping the tape off of the hull panels after the third coat so know to do it as soon as I have smoothed the last coat. After fooling with the pull saw and plane last night, I think I am going to get the power sander out and do the bevels today. I think it will do a better job faster.

We are going to pole vault over spring. Yesterday morning it was -3 C. Tomorrow it is suppose to be +22 C and stay that way. I will be moving the operation out side in a few days.

Here is the rudder in the rough.

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The rudder stock and tiller dry fit, ready for final assembly.

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And the transom and bulkheads ready for the final pre-coat of epoxy.

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We are rapidly approaching 3 D!

Here is a rough dry fit of the hollow box mast. I have to run the staves through a thicknesser yet, but they are close at this point. Kind of fun to see it come together.

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Thanks for helping each other out chaps!

Great to see!

MIK

Here are a couple of shots of the foils that I am doing a little "body" work on to smooth them out - fair as our friend Michael would say.

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I elected to go with the clear deck plates so I could inspect the inside of the air tanks for problems or check on what I had stored in there. I used two five inch aft and a single six inch forward.

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The bulkheads are finished with the epoxy pre-coat.

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I'm waiting now for my master carpentuer friend to finish the stem so we can go
3 D.

Next is the centreboard case and bottom.

I'm having trouble finding gudgeons and pintel in the US. Those listed in the plans are RF239, RF254 and RM148. Does anyone have a source or something that could be substituted? I need a pin that I can pull because the lift out models that are common will not work if I want to pull the rudder assembly off for trailering, rowing ect. What is out there in the USA. I found some on Brinks which appears to be in the land of OZ and would seem impractical for me.

Duckworks.

Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply - Hardware

RL-690 gudgeons in the appropriate size on the rudder case.

RL-490 gudgeons on the transom.

Line them up with a pin.

I may have got the last of the spec'd Ronstan rudder fittings sold in the US. I believe the source was West Coast Sailing but I dealt with a couple companies out there at the time and I may be dis-remembering. For the pin, I ordered a 6mm rod, 36" long, from McMaster-Carr. I have lots of it left, somewhere around here. If you would like to have it let me know and I'll see if I can find it. It is 304 SS, not 316.

That sounds wonderful to me. I will see what I can do for gudgeons today and what size pin they need, but I think that is the right size. I will let you know soon.