Thread: The Northstar GIS Build

Trying the rudder case for size.

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Now to find the bolts I need to get everything in place. I do have some trepidation about lining up the tiller handle through the slot in the transome and the pintels and gudgeons. Obviously some fiddling to do.

To measure the width of your finished, shaped board the easy way, close a sliding door on your board and measure the gap between the door and the jamb. You could also put it into a woodwork vice jaws and measure the gap between the jaws. Then make the rudder case accordingly, adding 3mm to the width of the board. Just make the rudder case exactly to the plan. Your rudder will fit!

The important thing is to ensure the rudder is dead vertical, so draw a vertical centreline on the transom. You need to attach the pintles to the rudder case first. Then slide the gudgeons onto the pin and tape them in place. Then simply bring the assembly up to the hull, align the gudgeons to the centreline ensuring the tiller has clearance in the slot and mark the screw holes with a pencil. You will find there is hardly any fiddling, really!

Your the man. I'm all over it.

Bruce is completely right.

Make up the rudder box like the drawing - the hole in the transom is the right size for the tiller. The only adjustment you need is the up down of the rudder fittings on the transom - and because of the continuous pin method there is a lot of latitude for moving things around.

Take heart! It works!

MIK

We have given up boat building for a few days. We found a wrecked boat trailer in a salvage yard. The axel looked like a pretzel and the tongue was bent, but the frame was straight as could be. Got it for $100 so are getting it ready for when the boat is finished. We are going to call it the ..........Goat Herder.

Had to take a spot of time out for my favorite summer activity - fishing - so have gotten a bit behind in the boat building department. Tomorrow, we hope to finish the boat trailer. It is wide enough we intend to put on a couple of permanent tubes to hold the mast and spars. We are also going to put on a bicycle rack so we can carry all of our toys at the same time.

I am having trouble getting the centerboard case to square up like I want so have turned it over to my wonderful wood working friend who is very meticulous. I expect it to come back perfect. He will moan and carry on about how bad it is but to the rest of the world it will be a gem. He moans and carries on about everything I do! What a great friend.

I was able to pull the boat trailer home today. It still needs some work, but all in all turned out very good. The biggest surprise is that it bolted up true and requires no extra work to align it. We measured it twice and it was perfect. The tongue is S shaped but works out to a straight pull so who cares. Now on to the minor adjustments and additions and it will be good to go.

Centreboard case in a few days and then 3D!

The centerboard case is finished. Now to position it on the bottom so I can get the final measurements for butt joints on the bottom and we will connect the bottom panels and journey toward 3 D. Summer has certainly slowed the rate of work, but the fishing has been exceptional.

All good things in their time.

It's all good progress!

The butt straps should be a little clear of the centrecase and chine log so they don't cause water to pool. In my experience about 10mm of unsupported joint is still reliable if the section involved is londitudinally stiff. Which both are being adjacent to the centrecase and the geometry of the chine respectively.

MIK

Thanks MIK. I will probably do that this afternoon or tomorrow. I was wondering how much space to leave so your post is certainly timely.

I very temporarily screwed the pieces together to see if I had any questions before getting the glue and getting serious. Turns out I do. I'm shaky on how the centercase fits with bulkhead #3. Any way I turn it, it interferes with the framing on #3. Do you make only one centercase brace? It looks like the framing on it interferes as well. Any suggestions?


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It looks to me like the centercase should be notched to allow a flush fit, but there is no such information in the plans. A little help here will have me screwing and gluing in a short time. Thanks everyone.

You notch the top frame crossing the bulkhead so the daggerboard case snugs into it. Get out the japanese saw and a chisel...

Some of it is covered in the order of process in the plan.

But Yes ... the plywood supports the centrecase directly.

MIK

I sort of thought that was what had to happen. It would sure make it stronger. Japanese saw on the way.