Page 8 of 224 FirstFirst ... 3456789101112131858108 ... LastLast
Results 106 to 120 of 3347
  1. #106
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Brian - sounds good :). I wonder if the "certain designer" is getting the time to peek at this thread now and then.

    I think you should suggest it to him - he is more likely to take notice of you... ;).

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #107
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Hi Mike - but not their price! You could make at least two ducks for that at today's prices! "Price (inc GST): $1,395.00". Ouch.

    Hmmm... "part-designed by Richard Cropley", I think! Apart from the 18V drill (I only have a 14.4V drill, thank you so very much Mr Callinan ;) it looks very much like the 1945 US design that Brian just put up.

    And the "dude" didn't mention OZ PDRacers! Why not!

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  4. #108
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    OK, well, I'm obviously back up from the workshop. As an aside, I'm going to look seriously at a suggestion of MIK's that I create albums on Flickr (for which I already have an account) or Picasa, which I can't use because they're not making a PPC OS X version - they (Google?) make an Intel OS X version, but I'm not coughing up $$$$ for a new computer just for the pleasure of using Picasa ;). Maybe if Bob McNeel & Co finally decide to abandon PPC Macs with Rhino 3D (now there's a coincidence ;), but that's not likely at this stage.

    Bother, distracted myself, where was I? Ah yes - and post the Flickr links in the forum (as MIK does).

    Back to "Wood Duck". The real reason that I'm being so fussy is that MIK has gone to great lengths to produce a really elegant design (in profile :), so I feel compelled to replicate that as accurately as possible. That's the scale modeller coming out - I have no doubt been viewing this build subconciously as 1:1 (working) scale model!

    I've just redone the starboard chinelog, and the stbd sheer clamp from the stern up to the cockpit bulkhead marker, then I stopped, as I need to take measurements of the port side forward of the CB line, to transfer to the stbd panel (using the digital calipers, of course ;).

    Photos (still in my forum album - I will try Flickr some time this weekend if not otherwise distracted):

    1. Overlapping chinelog #1: the following three photos are why I've made the effort to move the stringers. This way I avoid uneccessary planing, which for me (or rather the boat!) is fraught with danger:





    2. Overlapping chinelog # 2, bow. The screw in the chinelog is there to remind me to squeeze som glue in between the two pieces - I stopped somewhat short when glueing up the chinelog for some reason. Also to prevent the parts splitting apart; and also so that I get the panel screws in the right postions!





    3. Overlapping sheer clamp:





    4. An "after" shot of the chinelog, moved to its new home. Note the staggering of the screws - they're alternating over the chinelog's glue line, so as not to fracture the latter. Had to be a bit careful not to stray too far. Pencil marks around the new holes for later; I'm going to be doing a lot of filling on the side panels!





    5. Sample of the screw spacing "before":





    6. Sample of the screw spacing "after"; I've stopped at the CB line while I take measurements from the other side panel. The three screwed-up (no, not screwed up, the other one!) bulkheads are in the background:





    7. The sheer clamp still unstitched, forward of the CB line. The presence of the hammer might have been in case something went severely wrong ;). Just kidding, he said hurriedly :). There is a scrubby pencil mark just visible at the extreme right of the photo, which marks the spot where the sheer line starts to depart from the original design, and what (the departure, not the pencil mark) initially triggered all this fuss:





    More tomorrow, probably.

  5. #109
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    OK kids, it's tomorrow. What I been up to? Shopping :).

    Went down to Bunnies to look for the sponge rollers that MIK was mentioning a few pages back, and found a 100 mm-width handle for 110 mm high-density foam rollers and paint tray for about $15, and a pack of 10 x 110 mm high-density foam rollers ("for gloss paint") for about the same price. See below.

    Also got some fairly vicious metal spring clamps from Paul's Hardware in town the other day - $1 each, couldn't resist, got six :). See below also.

    Boat - drawing up the offsets for the final leg was a snap - much easier than thought it would be. Just drew a straight line with 0 and 430 marked on it on a piece of radiata shelving, then plonked the bow tip on 0, the 430 mark on the hull on 430, drew the line 'twixt the two points, and marked in 60 mm offsets (plus 10 mm at the end). Simple matter then of measuring the gaps at each point, then marking the starboard panel 0 and 430 marks, the 60 mm offsets, and the numbers for each one (the right way round!).

    I then made up a leve using the mast step runners blank (not cut up yet), a screw driven through the door as a pivot, and used a bit of Paulownia 19 mm offcut because I got the screw in sort of the wrong place.

    It was a simple matter of moving the lever with one hand while I used the calipers set at each offset value to set the distance between the edge of the sheer clamp and the edge of the ply panel, screwing in each station as I went. As the two panels were sanded together, they were identical in shape, and therefore I could in theory rely on the offfsets translating OK without further worry.

    Did it work? Sort of. Sort of? Waddya mean, sort of? Right at the part of the curve I've been working on, the stbd piece of sheer clamp has either developed a convenient twist, or I didn't machine that piece square towards the end of it - see photos below. Nowhere else, just at the area of interest. This has made comparing the two curves a bit diffcult: I tried to work around the problem by attempting to measure between the square and the sheer clamps at the ply-clamp join for both panel. This exercise resulted in reasonably close agreement - low tenths of a mm difference (approx). This still means careful planing, or maybe sanding, if not square; if twisted, I could try brute force and a pair of vice grips to twist the errant clamp to normal and re-screw. Again. If I keep that up, there won't be any (original) sheer line left on the ply to screw on to!

    Pictures: when I set up my Flickr account, I downloaded their standalone uploader, which works nicely - basically no different from using the Forum uploader, except that there is a bit more feedback with % file uploaded given.

    1. The lever for positioning the clamp where I wanted it. The side panel was blocked up level and clamped securely to the door that I'm currently using as a work table:





    2. Another view of the lever arrangement. Useful piece of offcut as a spacer to tweak the moment arm (not quite enough leverage without it)





    3. Marking in the 60 mm stations and offsets. This is the first test link to my Flickr account...



    It worked! Here's another:



    4. Lots more screws in the re-fastened sheer clamp: sheer clamp is now at newly-measured offsets taken from port sheer line





    5. Checking the sheer clamps with the engineer's square. Bottom (port) clamp is almost parallel with the square: the top one is not. The edge of the top clamp closest to the ply is almost the same distance from the square that the lower clamp is.





    6. View along the sheer, stern to bow. Both sheer clamps match for most of the length - but the twist in the foredeck section of the starboard sheer clamp (on top) is very noticeable - as are the square ends of the high-density foam paint rollers (see also below)





    7. Foredeck section of sheer line: sheer clamp re-jigged with a curve more closely approximating MIK's original design, although it is also starting to resemble a Swiss cheese ;).





    8. A couple of my new spring clamps - they really were a dollar each! And they have a savage spring inside!





    9. High-density foam paint rollers, 110 mm wide. Photo showing the rounded end of the rollers - the other end is square (see earlier photo). About $1.50 per roller, and reusable...





    That's about it for today. 7 out of the 9 photos above are Flickr links: let me know what you think: and if you can - or can't - see them!

    I'm moderately happy with the outcome of shifting the sheer clamps and chinelogs, although the last little stretch has tested my typically rather thin patience somewhat. I'm not happy with the twist, as it almost puts me back where I started. I think some careful work with one of my sanding blocks (60-grit green sandpaper glued to a piece of broom handle) will finally sort this, though. As long as I take it slowly.

    Aaaargh! There's a leech on my desk! Out! Out! I don't like leeches very much. It's damp at the moment, so they're out in force. This was quite a small one though, and easily flicked out the window.

    Um...where was I?...I had planned to do some coating and glueing tomorrow, I'll see how I go. Epoxy takes a while to go off in my workshop, probably because of low temperature and high-ish RH. Still, we'll see...

  6. #110
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Rockhampton, Australia
    Posts
    227

    Default

    Hi Alex.

    I used those same rollers on my PD racer, I ended up using 3 boxes( 30 rollers) that's for the whole boat including the foils and final painting... You will find that after the first coat of pox, they start to dis-integrate and the foam starts to come away form the yellow centre bit... basically you just have to plan your layups well and then you can use 3 rollers per session, ie, one per coat, every 1-2 hours( until pox starts to become tacky)

    I think the "Proper" rollers are a lot thinner, the foam is not as thick. Have a look at this link.: http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.p...roducts_id=145
    Though the bunnings ones are half the price...

    Cheers.

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AlexN View Post
    OK kids, it's tomorrow. What I been up to? Shopping .

    Went down to Bunnies to look for the sponge rollers that MIK was mentioning a few pages back, and found a 100 mm-width handle for 110 mm high-density foam rollers and paint tray for about $15, and a pack of 10 x 110 mm high-density foam rollers ("for gloss paint") for about the same price. See below.
    9. High-density foam paint rollers, 110 mm wide. Photo showing the rounded end of the rollers - the other end is square (see earlier photo). About $1.50 per roller, and reusable...


    Howdy,

    these are the rollers for paint ... perfect.

    But the epoxy rollers are different. They have thin foam on the outside.

    This is the best shot I have been able to find from the www.PDRacer.info site



    Hope it helps. Places that supply epoxy and advice usually stock the right ones.

    In this case it is a longer roller that has been cut into thirds.

    MIK

  8. #112
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nickpullen View Post
    Hi Alex.
    I think the "Proper" rollers are a lot thinner, the foam is not as thick. Have a look at this link.: http://boatcraft.com.au/Shop/index.p...roducts_id=145
    Though the bunnings ones are half the price...

    Cheers.
    Hi Nick,

    Thanks for the link. I actually ordered a stack of these rollers a month or so ago, but unfortunately the Sydney agent was out of stock, so I got the 230 mm ones instead, to cut down into 3 pieces (per suggestion of MIK's, somewhere). That made the cost of the "proper" rollers about $2.60 each ;). I'm going to order some 70 mm rollers from Brisbane when my new credit card comes online (some weasel nicked my wallet the other day, lost everything).

    I was actually getting the white foam rollars for painting the International Brightside top-coats, again per suggeston of MIK's, due to their apparently good application of the Brightside paint, without thinning (I am not a spray painter). The white foam rollers won't be going anywhere near the BoteCote - the grey BoatCraft-supplied rollers will be doing that. Thanks once again again for the suggestion, though :).

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  9. #113
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Hi MIK,

    Thanks once again for the links. That's the puppies, I knew I'd read the suggestion somewhere. I bought four of the long rollers from Dave at Drive Marine Services here in Sydney (BoatCraft's agent in Sydney), with the intention of getting out the chainsaw on 'em. Well, maybe not quite a chainsaw ;). As in my reply to Nick, I got the white rollers on your suggestion a few pages back re the painting of Brightside paint - I think yuo posted a picture, which i had been carry about in my head until I finally managed to intersect with the rabbits' paint department.

    Going to post some stuff on the afternoon's activities in a bit, but my daughter (The Other Boss) has just kicked me off the computer ;).

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  10. #114
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Hah! Logged in on The Boss's machine :). The only trouble is that I didn't upload any pics so they'll have to wait (if they're any good - I haven't even got them onto the main machine yet). Actually, there's another problem - this keyboard is set at the factory default - mine is set up slightly differently, and I keep losing my place by mistaken use of the "end" key...

    Been a bit slow again today - moved the goanna back into its proper spot today after it having spent four or five months in mothballs (so to speak). I can now start doing the 20 minutes' practice a day again that I'm supposed to be doing... Heavy things, goannas: even small uprights.

    By the time that I got to doing anything on the boat it was after midday. Most of the first block was spent tidying up for the next stage, which also included chucking some radiata shelving on top of the door to make a work surface wider than the length of the side panels, then putting some 200 um orange concrete underlay on top of that to catch the resin drips. The second block of time consisted of undoing all the screws holding the stringers onto the side panels, and cleaning off the impact crater rims made by the screws thrashing into the timber at speed. Fairly time-consuming and montonous task - four panel edges and four stringer faces, with a chisel held very flat so as not to dig in. Well, not too often, anyway. Finished off with some 120 grit "Sahara" paper on a cork block. Also marked the crew locations on the "outside" faces of the stringers, so that I get a clearer view of where the screws go back, once the glue goes on. The pencil marks on the side panels tend to blend in a bit - these other marks have better contrast.

    While I was at it, I measured the "top" and "bottom" starboard sheer clamp widths at the foredeck section as mused upon yesterday, and the "top" is indeed wider than the "bottom". I think there was also some twist in there, partly as a result of the (diagonal) grain direction and the bending direction of the timber at that point, and also partly because of the "impact craters" that I've now cleaned off.

    That's really been it so far: it is too late to start triple-coating now, it being too humid and cool to get the whole thing done before late tonight. There might be time, but I'm not going to risk it, so will do some other things that need doing (e.g., tidying up, measuring up the mast, sanding WRC boards, etc., etc., etc.!). Cup of tea first, though :). I'll edit this and post some pics later if there are any suitable ones from this afternoon.

    I'm back on my own machine again, much better :). Keyboard does what it's supposed to do. Well, the "only" tidying that got done in "block 3" was not the workshop but the three main bulkheads - I dismantled them one at a time, cleaned off the the crater rims and sanded them back a bit. My typingi si geting aporligli bda atthe momnt! I can't seem totipefor nutss.! Oh dear. Where was I? Sorry. Um... Ah yes, the Duck is now a CKD-ed kit of parts again. Although not all mixed up, fortunately.

    Oh yes, I've got some photos, haven't I? Right...

    1. Pine shelving on top of the door, increasing working area for working with the epoxy coating and glue:





    2. Covered with a bit of orange concrete underlay, courtesy of mate Adam, the bloke with the truck - don't ask him about plywood, Friday afternoons in Sydney's traffic, and idiots with colds (and Mrs Cake - but he doesn't know about Mrs Cake yet... with apologies to Terry Pratchett)





    3. Side panels on "new" bench to test stabilility. It worked fine, so proceeded to next step(s)...





    4. Crater rim under screw head: the screw head depression also visible here are why MIK suggests using ply-offcut spacers between the screw head and the ply...





    5. Crater rim between on lower piece of timber (cleat) - the best way around this would be to pre-drill with a very sharp wood-boring bit:





    6. Side panels stripped back down for cleaning off the numerous craters per examples seen in the above photos (actually finished, next step is re-checking that outlines are identical)...





    7. The two side panels clamped up for re-checking - almost 100 percent match (as it should have been, these where gang-sanded). Bit of sanding actually required (< 0.5 mm) on stern (bottom of photo). The gap looks worse than it really is here - hardly noticable when pressed together :).




    One thing I need to work out is how to make the images a bit bigger - not sure if it's Flickr or the Forum doing this.

    I'm hoping to really glue things up tomorrow, especially after having already read MIK's advice (see his reply below) before finishing this edit regarding coating stages. Step by step by step...

  11. #115
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Remember with the triple coating that the main target is the inside of the boat. Anything there is fair game to prepare beforehand.

    As far as anything on the outside ... it is pretty easy to coat later as everything comes up to its final joins/radiuses/details.

    ie all the decks and coamings and gunwale can be one session

    Bottom and sides and underside of the gunwale can all be another ... and finished!

    MIK


    MIK

  12. #116
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Hi MIK,

    Thanks for that - I've postponed the coating of the outer surfaces: that will ease things considerable tomorrow. I mess things up much more when I'm trying to rush things and overload at the same time, especially when I'm unfamiliar with a process (both the epoxy rolling and glue-bagging come under this category ;).

    BTW, did you catch any of the traffic regarding car-top loading methods?

    Any comments if so?

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  13. #117
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

  14. #118
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    Page "7" (or at least it is here), starting at about a third of the way down and continuing for most of the rest of the page, with a quip at the top of this one. Where it actually is on yours will depend on your browser, screen res, font res, chicken entrails, etc. ;). But it's not too far away... Look for the hand-drawn diagram, beautiful picture of clinker-built boat, etc.

    Cheers,
    Alex.

  15. #119
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    I thought it a good idea to make a list of steps for tomorrow - it can be altered on the run if required:

    1. Clean up the rubbish between screws and timber layers - done;

    2. Check side panel outlines, adjust where necessay - done;

    3. Remove trip hazards from floor around/under bench;

    4. Clear saw table of items likely to get bumped off and/or be distracting (see 5. below);

    5. Assemble epoxy items in a clear accessible area: saw table with plastic sheet would be favourite. Note: lower saw blade! Use gloves. Use mask: remember that HS powder contains glass and is Not Nice Stuff to Inhale!

    This list is proving useful already :)

    6. Remove sanding dust form all items with clean dry cloth;

    7. Remember that I have at least 1/2 hour working time with resin under current conditons, probably a bit more;

    8. Allow sufficient time for multiple coats: at least 3 hours if doing all at once, but probably not doing that, so estimate how many "blocks" might be needed;

    9. So how many? Partially depends on amount of coating resin then glue to be made up, space on table for max number of items, etc. Once max number items reached, space is committed unless only doing one side. MIK's advice boiled down to only doing one side, so flipping over is not going to be a limiting factor. But glue on sheer clamps at this stage. Use masking tape here...;

    10. Start with simplest item - something that will give confidence: either cockpit bulkhead or side panels, probably CB. Put bulkhead up on blocks to prevent resin wicking/pooling;

    11. Follow with bow transom and if confident enough stern transom simultaneously: keep frequently checking time for pot/working life of resin. Put these bulkheads up on blocks too to prevent resin wicking/pooling;

    12. Once three bulkheads have had final coat go off, bits glued on and screwed, they can be moved carefully to another part of shop and placed on another sheet of plastic to cure (don't walk on 'em!);

    13. Clean up with solvent if necessary. Have lunch. This will break day into two natural parts if the above has gone according to plan...;

    14. Got to pick daughter up from school at 2:45, so will have to have finished the side panels by 2:30;

    15: Side panels - the trick here is going to be estimating the right amount of resin needed to coat and glue. Should be getting something of a feel for it by now, especially as have already glued up the chinelogs (too parsimoniously?). Remember you have at least half an hour (especially if flowing the resin out immediately it has been mixed), a large amount of resin, and ditto powder. Limiting resources here are going to be patience and concentration. Also remember the expenisive squeegees you had made up for the aircraft work and haven't used very much to date ;). Each stage for the two panels can be done one immediately following the other. Block up panels above surface (also for bulkheads - go back and make notes above) so that resin doesn't wick underneath. Probably not too bad if it did, but no harm in trying to be a bit neat about the process. This will be aided if glue on the sheer clamps first, then flip over. Note that don't have to coat this side of the panel yet. Use masking tape per note above;

    16. Picking daughter up may coincide with one of the "tacking-off" periods - keep eye on the clock! Note - take gloves off before getting nywhere near the car...;

    17. Clean up at finish! Clear decks, have a good tidy-up as well: will need it as next step is the hull assembly dry run.

    Further notes: This will be the first time using the Storer/DF "glue-bag" beading system. Have soup can with brown vinegar ready to put scissors after cutting tip off;

    Remember that I have (much) more time than I think I have with this stage! It's NOT cyanoacrylate! Don't rush or I'll mess up...;

    Ignore the phone if not between stages! You can ring them back...

    Relax. Well, try to relax. Be relaxed about being relaxed...

    Modify/switch/add to/delete any of the above where necessary - be prepared to be flexible.

    Copy and print this! Take it down to workshop. Read it occassionally!

  16. #120
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Blaxland, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    2,551

    Default

    A quick note while I remember it - I've gone over to using 3M "Scotch" double-sided tape (yellow packet) instead of the sail-making tape, for pre-screwing setup (e.g., the bulheads). The latter is just too sticky: I spent quite a bit of time removing the residue from parts that I already thought I'd removed it from. Meths made a good remover as it seemed to ball it up and reduce its stickiness at the same time.

    No good putting epoxy onto that!

Similar Threads

  1. New Queensland PDRacer Build
    By duncang in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 71
    Last Post: 26th April 2012, 08:30 AM
  2. Oz PDR build in Adelaide - sexy black PDRacer
    By m2c1Iw in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 39
    Last Post: 27th April 2009, 06:30 PM
  3. OZ PDRacer - Dylan's build in the Philippines
    By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 23rd February 2009, 05:50 PM
  4. Brisbane Timber and Working with Wood. Boatmik/PDRacer
    By Boatmik in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11th April 2007, 08:06 PM
  5. Flawed wood on the TS --DUCK!
    By Robert WA in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 19th February 2004, 11:42 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •