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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hungary, Budapest
    Age
    45
    Posts
    72

    Default Mast, centerboard, rudder ready, 3D is getting close

    Hello guys,

    After the xmas holdays I regained into boatbuilding again.
    The mast is now ready, however a final varninshing is still to come.

    Attachment 95865 Attachment 95866

    Yesterday I spent 5 hours in the workshop with precoating and assembling bow transom, stern transom, cockpit bulkhead, side panels, centercase frame 1-2

    I did the chine logs for the side panels a few days ago.

    Attachment 95862 Attachment 95863 Attachment 95864

    Next time my little PDR will go 3D.

    I have to find a name quickly.

    Bests

    Csaba

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy Csaba,

    The name is not essential ... you can add that detail later. They will accept a link you your website too as it has PDR info on it.

    MIK

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Howdy,

    Csaba has been a bit quiet on the boatbuilding front recently ... but for a very nice reason.

    He is translating the Eureka, PDRacer and Handy Punt plans into Hungarian!!!

    He already has a great website but will be making plans for all storerboats available in English and the most popular ones will be available in Hungarian.
    http://hajoepitok.hu/kezdolap.html

    This is a pretty big job ... and he is flying through it all - Eureka done, PDR mostly done (everyone who has built one knows how much text and pics has to be translated) and will be ready to set up his site for plans sales in the next weeks.

    Cool!

    MIK

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hungary, Budapest
    Age
    45
    Posts
    72

    Default Storerboat idea conquers CEE

    Oh, yeah, that's true. Translation job is not that easy - especially translation of shipping expressions like transom, headlogs, chinelog lamination, mast step, centerboard, and so on. I have some friends who helped me with that so now I have almost all the vocabulary.
    Many Hungarians are interested in building boats but English language is not that spoken here (or at least not on a high level) - that's why I received lots of questions and interest (even some plan pre-orders) through my Web-page.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Komenda, Slovenia
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Hey Csaba

    This is fantastic that people are interested in these boats.
    And the work on your web site is great - though I don't understand much but looks like you have a lot of info there.

    Hope to race you some day on Balaton.

    Peter

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hungary, Budapest
    Age
    45
    Posts
    72

    Default The funniest screw-up I have ever made

    Howdy boatbuilders,
    I'm happy to announce that I made the most stupid mistake on my PDR that is ever possible to make.
    Look at the photo:
    Attachment 99585

    Michael raised my attention when looking at my blog - yes the side panels are the same and not mirror images. I don't believe it.
    The big question is what to do now. Shall I try to dismantle the panel or should I just make a new one - which would mean buying a whole new plywood and making a new chine log - nono I don't want this. I will try to solve it without much invesment.
    I will inform you about my experineces.
    Cheers.
    Csaba

  8. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    848

    Default

    Do you have a hot air gun? With heat applied it might be possible to soften the epoxy holding the cleats to the ply and gently separate them, re-using all components.

    One of these saws will possibly cut cleanly between items with no marking, if anyone you know has one.

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-I...Saw-364268.htm

    Much more expert people should be along shortly.

    Brian

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    I think the wood will insulate too well for a hot air gun to work.

    I think I would jigsaw as much as possible off - you will have to leave some so you don't damage the ply. then plane most of it off before moving to a sander.

    But someone might have a really nice idea (like build another PDRacer so you have two!!!!).

    Actually I mean they might have a better idea than me!

    I am trying to remember which boats where I did exactly the same thing. I have done it twice in my boatbuilding career. Oh, um, one was a Eureka where I coated the panels on the "inside" and had half the epoxy on the outside. Ah and the same thing with the Duck Flat PDRs!!!!

    Now I always lay the panels out together when they are a pair so they appear as mirror images to remind me.

    Michael

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hungary, Budapest
    Age
    45
    Posts
    72

    Default

    Hi,
    Just because of this repair-job I ordered a Japanese pull-saw (which turned out to be useful for other woodworks too).

    Attachment 110312

    The saw worked fine but I had to be very careful not to damage the ply - well, I damaged it a bit at last but will survive.

    Attachment 110311

    I decided to plane and sand it down entirely when the body is in one piece.

    Attachment 110313

    So I was ready to start 3D-ing

    Attachment 110314

    This is the result:

    Attachment 110315

    Yesterday I built in mast step. No pic yet. It is a delightful everyday practice - when I return from work every day I spend a few hours on my PDR during the warm summer evening. My wife is still happy with it...

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Well done when it's coated sanded and painted nobody will know unless you tell them..........we can keep a secret here on the forum.

    Cheers
    Mike

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Savannah GA USA
    Posts
    583

    Default

    Since you have the problem sorted out this is coming a little late but might be useful in the future, when you need to remove a piece.

    When I was doing some repair work to a guitar I learned to use a piece of heavy metal warmed in the oven. Lay the hot metal bar along the joint that you need to open up, cover it with a blanket, and let the heat work through the wood. In your situation you would put the bar on the thin plywood, not the thicker chine wood. After 15 or 20 minutes the glue joint should be soft enough to pry apart with a chisel.

    I used this technique to remove the fretboard from the neck of the guitar. The glue was either a hide glue or white woodworking glue but both respond to heat similar to epoxy.
    The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
    http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w168/MiddleAgesMan/

    Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/37973275@N03/

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Northern California USA
    Age
    62
    Posts
    211

    Default

    The fact that your wife is happy with it may be the most important factor in the entire project

    I've enjoyed reading about your build.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mezix View Post
    Hi,
    Just because of this repair-job I ordered a Japanese pull-saw (which turned out to be useful for other woodworks too).

    Attachment 110312

    The saw worked fine but I had to be very careful not to damage the ply - well, I damaged it a bit at last but will survive.

    Attachment 110311

    I decided to plane and sand it down entirely when the body is in one piece.

    Attachment 110313

    So I was ready to start 3D-ing

    Attachment 110314

    This is the result:

    Attachment 110315

    Yesterday I built in mast step. No pic yet. It is a delightful everyday practice - when I return from work every day I spend a few hours on my PDR during the warm summer evening. My wife is still happy with it...

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m2c1Iw View Post
    Well done when it's coated sanded and painted nobody will know unless you tell them..........we can keep a secret here on the forum.

    Cheers
    Mike
    Nobody reads this forum so your secret is very safe! (hehe)

    MIK

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
    Posts
    8,138

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MiddleAgesMan View Post
    Since you have the problem sorted out this is coming a little late but might be useful in the future, when you need to remove a piece.

    When I was doing some repair work to a guitar I learned to use a piece of heavy metal warmed in the oven. Lay the hot metal bar along the joint that you need to open up, cover it with a blanket, and let the heat work through the wood. In your situation you would put the bar on the thin plywood, not the thicker chine wood. After 15 or 20 minutes the glue joint should be soft enough to pry apart with a chisel.

    I used this technique to remove the fretboard from the neck of the guitar. The glue was either a hide glue or white woodworking glue but both respond to heat similar to epoxy.
    Howdy, the hide glues work very well like this. I've never found it works with the 'pox though.

    Have you tried it? How did it go?

    MIK

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Hungary, Budapest
    Age
    45
    Posts
    72

    Default body in 3D, frame 1-2 + centercase done, buoyancy tank on the way

    As the summer evenings are long enough and warm recently I have advanced much with my PD. I glued the bottom on, then assembled the centercase structure.
    When I glued in the tank face I realised that launch is getting close.

    Attachment 111467

    Attachment 111468

    Attachment 111472

    Attachment 111469

    Today I sent an email to Shorty to request a hull number. The name of the boat will be wasserTRABI - I think the Eastern Europeans would know where this name came from.

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