|  |
| Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans For the multitude of wooden boat fans that use, and need info on Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans. Put your questions etc here and they will be answered and dealt with quicker and easier by the man himself and others in the know. |
 | | 
25th Apr 2007, 06:43 PM
|  | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |  A new OZ PDR hits the water.
Hi All,
Robin Badenoch has launched his OZ PDR (#124) at Clayton on the Murray River.
He is pretty happy with the little boat.
The full story is on the PDR News section here http://pdracer.blogspot.com/
The boat looks a little like this and he has written a review of its sailing. 
And YEP - that is a polytarp sail - not bad eh - though a little more snotter tension would make it even better (see the above link)
MIK |
29th Apr 2007, 02:46 PM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |
Hi All,
There have been some changes to the OZ PDR Plans.
After sailing the Mk2 PDRacers several times there is a change to the sail patches in the corners. It can go over the top of the existing patches. It makes the sail tougher so it can handle the eyelets better.
Also don't overhammer the eyelets - if they start splitting they are overhammered. If the cloth is not clamped properly they are underhammered. Get some practice in on the line of eyelets down the luff of the sail and do the corners last.
Also at the same time I noticed that the drawings of the patches had become mis-scaled on the drawings on some of the plans that have been sent out. They have been corrected here.
See the "News" section on www.pdracer.info
Best Wishes
Michael |
13th Jun 2007, 11:59 PM
|  | Timber Hoarder | | Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Minbun, FNQ, Australia Age: 52
Posts: 10,664
| |
Heard on the grapevine tonight that it was decided/announced at the 2007 Tinaroo Raid last weekend that there will be some ducks built for the Raid next year.
The Cairns & the Townsville (maybe) chapters of the Wooden Boat Assoc. plan to have entries for next year. 
I think I may have to get busy.  |
19th Jun 2007, 12:48 PM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |
Cheers for that Cliff!!!
Will look forward to more breaking news.
MIK |
17th Nov 2007, 10:55 AM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |
There is additional information about making spars and sails for a lug rig available for the OZ Mk2 PDR. It is free with proof of purchase of the plan.
The information is step by step like the full plans and covers the extra bits you need to know.
More details here http://pdracer.blogspot.com/2007/10/...or-oz-pdr.html
MIK |
6th Feb 2008, 12:14 AM
|  | Pretend my avatar moves! | | Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: "The Home of the Biting Midge" MountainCreek Qld
Posts: 8,467
| |
I've finally got PDRacer.info nearly finshed, which makes it a lot shorter project than the Eureka!
Now all the pics clickable  , and have a few new how-too's which are pretty much a summary of what's on the original PDR build thread, but some might find them useful in one spot.
More work to go, but not this week!
Cheers,
P  |
6th Feb 2008, 12:21 AM
| | Timber Hoarder | | Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Minbun, FNQ, Australia Age: 52
Posts: 10,664
| |
Quote:
Originally Posted by bitingmidge  ...More work to go, but not this week!... | Let me know when you want me to 'proof read' it again. |
17th Mar 2008, 10:23 AM
|  | Growing in wood art | | Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Komenda, Slovenia
Posts: 77
| | Q and notes on the plans
Hi Michael I have a few comments/questions about the plans. I recently bought them but haven't started with building. Well almost have. I'm doing a model of the racer hence some questions. 1) Side panels: do you attach cleats on all three inner sides of the side panel or just one chine log? On picture page 14 there is only chine log but on picture on page 15 there are on all three sides. If that happens then there is a problem with too many cleats on stern and bow transom (too many cleats in one corner). 2) Stern transom, buoyancy panel and side deck: the cleat for buoyancy tank on a plan for stern transom is said to be 199mm form the edge on the top.The measurment for the side deck at that point is 229mm. Although it goes over the side panel for 19mm plus adding a bit les than 19mm for carlin you end up with about 29mm over the cleat line (buoyancy tank side). So do you move the cleat on stern side or plane down the side deck? 3) I had to check many photos to figure out in what way do you attach the side panels to bow and stern transoms. Is it stern over the side panel or the side panel over the transom? A small picture showing the joint would help I think. Perhaps the hint is that 4mm gap when you attach the side cleat on both transoms, isn't it? Or that cockpit bulkhead is shorter than transom. I hope this makes sense. Thanks for your reply. p.s. the pictures are just for fun. i hope I haven't tricked you in thinking this is full sized boat. Although it crossed my mind to be checky and to set it up so it would look like it. |
17th Mar 2008, 09:30 PM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |
Quote:
Originally Posted by koala Hi Michael I have a few comments/questions about the plans. I recently bought them but haven't started with building. Well almost have. I'm doing a model of the racer hence some questions. | Thanks for this Koala - and a gorgeous model it is too!!!! If you are making a sailing model I will need to work out the amount of weight to hold the boat upright for you! The amount of lead (Pb) or other metal is surprisingly large and needs to be on a longer keel. Quote: | 1) Side panels: do you attach cleats on all three inner sides of the side panel or just one chine log? On picture page 14 there is only chine log but on picture on page 15 there are on all three sides. If that happens then there is a problem with too many cleats on stern and bow transom (too many cleats in one corner). | There is a mention that the pictures don't quite match the text at the beginning of the plans. The text is correct. Some of the pictures are from our Mk1 boats where we tried some ideas that didn't work very well. So if there is a discrepancy follow the text and the drawings. If you follow the drawings there won't be any mistakes as I try to make sure that when the parts are made properly there is only one way to fit them together. Quote: | 2) Stern transom, buoyancy panel and side deck: the cleat for buoyancy tank on a plan for stern transom is said to be 199mm form the edge on the top.The measurment for the side deck at that point is 229mm. Although it goes over the side panel for 19mm plus adding a bit les than 19mm for carlin you end up with about 29mm over the cleat line (buoyancy tank side). So do you move the cleat on stern side or plane down the side deck? | There is no choice - because of the order the parts are made are made and fitted they can only go together one way. And that means that there is excess width on the side deck that is planed off the outside (gunwale) side after it is glued in position. Quote: | 3) I had to check many photos to figure out in what way do you attach the side panels to bow and stern transoms. Is it stern over the side panel or the side panel over the transom? A small picture showing the joint would help I think. | Yes - I will check to see if I have a picture. I might not. The drawings PDF has detailed drawings of the bow and stern transoms showing the framing. It shows the framing edge is 4mm inside the plywood edge. There is a note on that page too. If the framing on the transoms follows that drawing there is no choice when you join them to the side panels.
Except for putting the transoms on upside down! ) Quote: | Perhaps the hint is that 4mm gap when you attach the side cleat on both transoms, isn't it? Or that cockpit bulkhead is shorter than transom. | YES!!! You understood it before I explained! Quote: I hope this makes sense. Thanks for your reply.
p.s. the pictures are just for fun. i hope I haven't tricked you in thinking this is full sized boat. Although it crossed my mind to be checky and to set it up so it would look like it. | OK Koala!!!! That is a good challenge for you - I want some photos that make it look like the boat is full size!!!! But only if you are not busy!!!!
Best wishes - and it does look very nice too.
Michael! |
7th Apr 2008, 10:35 PM
|  | Most Valued Member | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Adelaide Age: 54
Posts: 1,749
| | PD Tow Ring
Reading the International Rules (previously overlooked by moi) I notice a reference to a tow ring
"Towring or fairlead on bow min internal diameter 25mm (1 inch)"
Mik I can't find a note in the Mk2 plans or any mention in the various build posts.
So question is what has everyone been doing about this.
Perhaps:
1. Didn't read the rules (they are a bit like instructions)
2. Nothing, don't care about the rules.
3. Decided tow rings are for wimps.
4. Nothing and hope nobody protests after a race.
5. Secretly fitted one cleverly disguised so competitors don't notice and they get scratched by the measurers at the titles.
Now back to reading the rest of the rules 
Mike |
7th Apr 2008, 11:00 PM
| | Pretend my avatar moves! | | Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: "The Home of the Biting Midge" MountainCreek Qld
Posts: 8,467
| |
Quote:
Originally Posted by m2c1Iw R
"Towring or fairlead on bow min internal diameter 25mm (1 inch)"
Mik I can't find a note in the Mk2 plans or any mention in the various build posts.
So question is what has everyone been doing about this.
Perhaps:
1. Didn't read the rules (they are a bit like instructions) | I co-wrote them so I don't count!  Quote: |
2. Nothing, don't care about the rules.
| It's the PDR way! Quote: |
3. Decided tow rings are for wimps.
| True! Quote: |
4. Nothing and hope nobody protests after a race.
| Well since they don't have on either.... Quote: |
5. Secretly fitted one cleverly disguised so competitors don't notice and they get scratched by the measurers at the titles.
| BUSTED! The saddle at the base of the mast is technically at the bow of the boat, and will work happily as a tow ring if needed. If the mast is still in -situ I'd take a turn around it and hold the towing rope before I'd tie a boat off to a ring in any case. Call it over cautious if you like!
Well spotted!
P |
7th Apr 2008, 11:11 PM
| | Most Valued Member | | Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Adelaide Age: 54
Posts: 1,749
| |
Thanks Midge,
In my junior dinghy days the rescue boat crew went crook at you if you even attempted to tie off a tow rope, always used a loop around the mast.
Duck Flat supplied a length of nylon rope in their fittings kit, phoned them because I thought they had made a mistake.
Ted quietly pointed out "It's the TOW ROPE" 
Mike |
19th Oct 2008, 11:50 AM
| | Deeply flawed human being | | Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: 'Delaide, Australia Age: 51
Posts: 5,923
| |
A minor update to the pdracer plans.
It might sound important ... but it is not a big one. The foredeck is a little short and on some boats needs some filling at the front end to bring it up flush with the bow transom ... it just depends on how the boat goes together.
I decideded in the latest update to move the cockpit front bulkhead forward. It is nothing to worry about if you have built it the normal way and is not worth getting a new set of plans to see the details.
The latest plans Version 1.4i have the cockpit bulkhead moved forward 20mm and the other changes that this makes necessary. The foredeck was a bit scant/short so some had to be filled.
Plan versions 1.4i and after already have these changes incorporated
For earlier versions of the plans (see first page of the actual beginning of the instructions) the changes follow if you want to use them. The boat will be fine without these changes.
The only changes that means for earlier plan versions are ..
1/ move the mast bulkhead forward 20mm.
2/ make the side decks longer by at least 20mm longer at the back end
3/ take 20mm off the back end of the mast partner and mast step.
Best wishes
Michael | | |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
| | |
All times are GMT +11. The time now is 07:53 PM.
|
