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  1. #196
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    Nice pic from Jim in the Pacific Northwest. USA - the pacific Northwest of Canada would still be frozen I think. Sorry if I got it wrong.

    But is is a nice pic



    Hey, Michael

    Here is a picture of my canoe. It's structurally complete...
    it just needs varnish and paint. Notice the sloppy fillets!
    (first time builder of anything) I can send some more if you like,
    when I'm finished painting, and first launch. (if the rain ever lets up,
    it's been one of the wettest May's on record, but that's the Pacific Northwest)

    Have it happy!

    Joe

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  3. #197
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Rosedale B.C. Canada
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    147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Boatmik View Post
    Nice pic from Jim in the Pacific Northwest. USA - the pacific Northwest of Canada would still be frozen I think. Sorry if I got it wrong.
    I went into the wilderness near Merritt British Columbia (211 kms from Vancouver) this last weekend with my Quick Canoe, and although the ice was off the lake, it snowed on us periodically all weekend. Elevation was about 1300 meters. Temps between -3c and +4c. Sorry, didn't take pictures.

    Americans call it 'Survivor', Canadians call it 'Camping'.

    Rick.

  4. #198
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  5. #199
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    Lindfield N.S.W.
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    BTW I bought my plans form Duck Flat today - email them and they will get back to you pronto (in my experience)
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  6. #200
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    My build has started, you can follow it here.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/q...6/#post1162713
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  7. #201
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sydney
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    3,096

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    and I am trying to kick Cliffs ####, especially now I notice he has a helper, and I just have dogs that walk on the 'cheesy epoxy' and need their feet washed with vinegar.

    Michael - thanks for this design, its fun, simple... and quick
    Cheers,
    Clinton

    "Use your third eye" - Watson

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/clinton_findlay/

  8. #202
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    Where are the pics Clinton?

    You have to take pics & post them as you go.... if there are no pics, it didn't happen.
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #203
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    Mik (and others who have built or are planning to build a Quikanoe)

    I was thinking that I might put inwhale spaces between the inwhales and the ply side (a la GIS). This is just so there are lots of lashing points for gear sacks etc.

    Should I do this or would that be a waste? If it is doable, what size spacers and what spacing between them (I was thinking 12mm thick and 100 mm long, spaced 150mm apart).
    Cheers

    Jeremy
    If it were done when 'tis done, then 'twere well it were done quickly

  10. #204
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    That would be fine Jeremy. I think they will look a little small at 12 thick, would probably go a bit more.

    Also be aware that the spaces are longer than the blocks by a bit ... so if you use 50mm blocks then the gaps between will need to be maybe 70mm approx. Also you need some solid infil around the centre spreader and in way of the bow and stern knees. You may want to make the bow and stern knees in real timber and put them between the inwales rather than on top to make it look quite traditional.

    MIK

  11. #205
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    2

    Default Urgent: help needed on canoe seat spacing

    Hi Everyone, or maybe Michael,

    1. This is the important question !!We have just finished the quick canoe hull and realized we need three seats, not two. ( One adult, two teens) What is the best placement?
    2. Is the central stringer strictly necessary? Don’t the seats support the boat sufficiently? Or with three seats will I have to put in 2 stringers?
    3. I don’t want to build buoyancy tanks in this canoe because I’d like to nest another canoe in it. What is the best way of securing buoyancy in it? Tying a bag under the seats? Doesn’t seem like enough. .
    4. Is there any reason I can’t screw the seats in and out and needed?
    5. I’d like to build a smaller canoe to nest inside this one. Do you have specs for a smaller quick canoe?
    6. Is the quick canoe suitable as a sailer? Could I use a windsurfer sail and mast or would that be too big? (I’ve got one)
    7. I read somewhere that the drop-in outrigger rig was available free ??

    And some comments..
    In Melbourne I couldn’t find 6 mm ply for under $96/ sheet. In the end I used 7.5 mm structural ply for the bottom and 4.5 mm bracing ply for the sides..feeds a bit thin, I think I’ll have to fibreglass the sides. Looks beautiful, with meranti -coloured sides and pine rubrail and decks.

    I don’t know what kind of duct tape people are using, but I have found it useless. Everything fell apart and I had to put it together again with cable ties.

    Its been so much fun, on the last lap now..Many thanks in anticipation!!

    Many Thanks

    Tom Sizer

  12. #206
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    Just answered by email.

    Here is a copy ... Indented sections are the questions. Left flush paragraphs are my replies.

    REplies through your text, Tom,

    On 16/12/2012 6:17 PM, Tom Sizer wrote:

    Hi Michael,

    1. This is the important question !!We have just finished the quick canoe hull and realized we need three seats, not two. ( One adult, two teens) What is the best placement?
    With the normal seats placed in position it defines the front and back of the canoe. If putting in a middle seat the front of the seat should be at the middle of the boat. It is not going to be a very good position for paddling so you could make it a lower passenger seat.

    2. Is the central stringer strictly necessary? Don’t the seats support the boat sufficiently? Or with three seats will I have to put in 2 stringers?
    Yes - change to two spreaders rather than the one middle one. Take the measurement with a temporary middle spreader the right length in place.

    3. I don’t want to build buoyancy tanks in this canoe because I’d like to nest another canoe in it. What is the best way of securing buoyancy in it? Tying a bag under the seats? Doesn’t seem like enough.
    4. Is there any reason I can’t screw the seats in and out and needed?
    You might have to move the standard seats a little in from the ends to get the buoyancy bags in or you can fit between seats. You can make your own buoyancy bags or buy them - ask me and I will give you a page with directions to make.

    5. I’d like to build a smaller canoe to nest inside this one. Do you have specs for a smaller quick canoe?
    No I don't - sorry. But remember that you have the two spreader bars and the three seats that will make nesting very difficult.

    6. Is the quick canoe suitable as a sailer? Could I use a windsurfer sail and mast or would that be too big? (I’ve got one)
    Yes - much too big. Though if you fitted outriggers it would probably be OK. I have two sailing options. One is with outriggers - you buy the outrigger plan and I provide information to give a good size sailing rig for quite good sailing performance. The other option is the drop in sailing rig which gives enough area for fun sailing around the local area - it doesn't have enough area for three people on the boat, but OK for one or two - it has a built in leeboard support so nothing except the mast step is attached to the boat permanently.

    7. I read somewhere that the drop-in outrigger rig was available free ??

    Only for purchasers of the outrigger kits.


    And some comments..
    In Melbourne I couldn’t find 6 mm ply for under $96/ sheet. In the end I used 7.5 mm structural ply for the bottom and 4,5 mm bracing ply for the sides..feeds a bit thin, I think I’ll have to fibreglass the sides. Looks beautiful, with meranti -coloured sides and pine rubrail and decks.

    Good compromise. Don't look at fibreglassing the sides until you have the gunwales, inwales, spreaders and seats all fitted. They will make the hull much more rigid. Fibreglass adds a great deal of weight. If it does prove to be necessary we have found that VERY light glass adds almost as much rigidity and equal protection as using heavier glass. There are some cabin catamarans built of 4mm plywood and 2oz (75gsm) glass on the outside - this indicates that the normal suggestion of 4oz or 6oz glass is wrong.

    Also "people" say that glass doesn't add much weight. But what they don't realise is timber is so light - so glass adds a lot of weight to the structure - VERY important to keep the amount of glass down. I think with the seats and spreaders in that the boat will start to feel very rigid.


    I don’t know what kind or duct tape people are using, but I have found it useless. Everything fell apart and I had to put it together again with cable ties
    It seems that about 90% of people use the duct tape method and it works well for them. I've used it for three boats now. But it does depend on the duct tape available and maybe to some extent the timber itself. Cable ties are so cheap I think I will start to recommend people get the cable ties as well. I have to take care of the 10% where the tape doesn't work so well.

    I'm glad that despite that not working that it has been fun!

    Best wishes
    Michael


    Its been so much fun, on the last lap now..

    Many Thanks

    Tom Sizer



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