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  1. #61
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    Haha ... actually Brian ... that third pic is really shocking for me. Did you know I used the sheer widths and sheerline of the Eureka.

    A careful observer can see the ghost of the Eureka lurking there.

    The hull is flared with quite a complex changes in the amounts along the length of the boat to keep the strange bottom shape attached!

    This took another hour - total of 2 1/2 hours.

    The Simple Canoe


    The Eureka for comparison



    You can see the similarities of the sheer.

    You can see that it works out pretty fair and is strong enough to turn over. and "person handle". Not quite sure just how handleable it is .. but at least it didn't fall apart!



    Rick has done a good job of keeping it nicely fair.

    Not sure if we need all those spreaders and not sure if it will be easier to build upright or upside down and not sure if it will paddle OK!!!

    But nice progress.

    Rick is going to use glass tape and polyester resin.

    A few more of Rick's Pics here.
    Building the Easy Canoe in plywood stitch and glue

    MIK

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  3. #62
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    Sort of cross between Eureka and RowBoat!

    That makes me think with some outriggers she would make a nice rowing skiff. People do use canoe hulls after all.

    Herreshoff's flat bottomed rowboat is held up as one of the quickest rowboats afloat.



    3D does bring surprises!!!

    Brian

  4. #63
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  5. #64
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    Pictures look really good. She looks to have some flare or is that just the camera and she is in reality vertical sided? That third pic makes her look very pretty - not sure MIK was expecting that? What do you reckon MIK?

    Brian

    There is about 10 degrees of flare in the sides. It looks quite conventional from some angles, and from a Puddleduck perspective, it is quite curvy and stylish.

    MIK wondered if it would be easier to build upside down or right side up; I built it right side up until I installed the spreaders and gunwales. (my gunwales are quite stiff, and I didn't want to build in an unfair curve, so I installed lots of spreaders).
    Once those were on, I measured across the bottom panel in the middle to establish the width at the chine. I then installed another spreader just under the chine so the bottom panel would have something to rest on. Then I flipped it over upside down (no drama, the spreaders held fine) and rested the bottom on the middle spreader and continued to line up the sides and bottom with duct tape. Once the bottom was taped, it was easily stiff enough to move around whichever way I needed.

    Rick.

  6. #65
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    She also makes me think of the West Mersea Duck Punts I linked to earlier in this thread. They sail upwind just immersing the chine, no dagger or lee board, and steer using an oar. So no additional work, just a spare Opi rig ( which just by chance I have!).

    MIK, could you tell us a little more about your first build, the Herreshoff Rowboat perhaps on another thread. I am just reading my son's copy of John Gardner's book which has all the lines for the boat.

    3D seems to have gone well - just the launch next!!

    Brian

  7. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdr311 View Post
    There is about 10 degrees of flare in the sides. It looks quite conventional from some angles, and from a Puddleduck perspective, it is quite curvy and stylish.

    MIK wondered if it would be easier to build upside down or right side up; I built it right side up until I installed the spreaders and gunwales. (my gunwales are quite stiff, and I didn't want to build in an unfair curve, so I installed lots of spreaders).

    Once those were on, I measured across the bottom panel in the middle to establish the width at the chine. I then installed another spreader just under the chine so the bottom panel would have something to rest on. Then I flipped it over upside down (no drama, the spreaders held fine) and rested the bottom on the middle spreader and continued to line up the sides and bottom with duct tape. Once the bottom was taped, it was easily stiff enough to move around whichever way I needed.

    Rick.
    The flare is highly variable - starts off vertical at the stems, then gets wider to allow the sheer width to be conventional even with the narrow entry of the bottom panel, then it tames itself and becomes milder and conventional in the middle as the bottom shape and sheer finally agree to live with each other.

    I am really glad that she held together with the tape in a secure way. That was the worry and with a boat with relaxed panels like this it is now proven to be acceptable.

    This might work for PDRacers too Rick. Precut everything with cleats to take the deck - none elswhere. Tape together - ha a registerable 3D boat in about 4 hours but including all tank faces and bulkheads? Hot glue melt blobs to hold the bulkheads in and fillet the lot. Fit step and partner and decks on.

    MIK

  8. #67
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    Is this construction called

    T&T Tape and Tape
    T&F Tape and Fillet
    GT & ET Gaffer Tape and Epoxy Tape
    GTF Gaffer then Fillet
    GTF Gaffer Tape Fillet

    Needs a handle, a name and so much nicer than stitching!

    T&F I think?
    GTF sounds faster!

    Not just the PDR this way - the new 12' as well if her curves can take it.

    What other suggestions from the gang?

    Brian

  9. #68
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    Mar 2008
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    Rockhampton, Australia
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    T&P -- Tap and Pray it holds together.
    Nick

    Fair Winds and Following Seas
    ------------------------------------------------------------
    PD Racer #276 - "Duck's Nuts" - Oz MkII with Lug rig
    Storer Eureka 155 - unnamed

  10. #69
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    More from Rick

    Quote Originally Posted by RickLandreville
    I filleted the inside chine, and after it hardened, I flipped over the canoe and removed the duct tape. I then rounded the outside chine and applied the fiberglass tape and resin. Total time, 50 minutes.

    The duct tape held perfectly. I think this way of building it is a winner. Very stable to move it around, held back the fillet material without sticking to it.

    I am actually considering not taping the inside chine, and leaving the inwale off of it to try and shed a few pounds of weight, as I think it is strong enough the way it is. What are your thoughts? (the polyester filler I used for the fillet has chopped strands of fiberglass in it for strength). You would not believe how light this thing is! Maybe 20kg at this point, but I still have the skegs, bottom runner, knees and seats to install. Maybe tomorrow if tonight isn't too hard on me.

    Anyways, I will take a few pictures later, as I wasn't allowed to use my wifes fancy Nikon D60 DSLR camera with my hands full of resin and bog...go figure...

    Rick.
    I think the total is now 3.5 hours.

    MIK

  11. #70
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    I am suspicious that the fillet on the inside might either not stick very well to the ply or be too brittle. But my suggestion to Rick is to go with it and if it does give up somewhere it can be glass taped over the top.

    Out of the crappy ply it now weighs the same as a lightly built but finished Eureka, so weight is not too bad. I'd be guessing it is heading toward about 27kg finished if the centreline, gunwale and inwale timber is not too heavy.

    MIK

  12. #71
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    This little punt you are developing, ok Ezy canoe just now, could be a lot of fun in Keyhaven marshes, nice flat water so less balance problems.

    She might look like this under Opi rig, these are the West Mersea Duck Punts.







    And when someone said what have you got there, I would say she's a Keyhaven Punt, choose what you called her!

    Brian

  13. #72
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  14. #73
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    Howdy ... I might start calling it the Disposable Canoe! Might be a sufficiently challenging name to overcome the stigma. Certainly would stick out in the marketplace! It cries "cheap" and "easy".

    Might still paddle like cr@p - I suspect not. But like the right name that will be discovered in the fullness of time.

    Thanks for the idea though. DuctTape Canoe? That would stand out in a marketing sense too. People would roll up just for a look at what it was about. Could work too. I think any thread on a canoeing forum that was titled "Duct tape canoe" would be just about irresistible. I think that could really work to get some notoriety at the beginning.

    Keep thinking!

    MIK

  15. #74
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    Brian, the sailing idea is rather interesting! And as observed a couple of pages earlier a false forefoot like this was a traditional way of getting some lateral resistance too.

    It is not really designed around the sailing rig ... Maybe it is an opening for a boat that is longer and wider.

    The Mersea Duct Punt?

    MIK

  16. #75
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    Brian, the sailing idea is rather interesting! And as observed a couple of pages earlier a false forefoot like this was a traditional way of getting some lateral resistance too.

    It is not really designed around the sailing rig ... Maybe it is an opening for a boat that is longer and wider.

    The Mersea Duct Punt?

    MIK

    If the sail had a low CE (Center of Effort), or even something like a kayak sail used just for reaching and running, I can't see why this wouldn't work on the Duct Tape Canoe. Perhaps doubling up the 19x19mm bottom runner would give it a little more 'bite' without making it too much harder to paddle? Heck, we could install a set of MIK's outriggers that he sells plans for, and install the PDR rig. It would probably rattle and hum set up like a trimaran!

    Rick.

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