Thread: Quick Canoe - "Disposable" Canoeing - very simple ply canoe - building pics

To me it's quite clear who are the owners of this canoe!

Does any combination or part combination of the girls names work? If it does, then that has to be the name.

Is there enough ply left over to build this tow vehicle?





Brian

I took the canoe out on some big water today. It tracks really nice, the stability is terrific, and it is well behaved. The only vice would be that it is slow to turn, but I could adjust that out by planing down the ends of the skegs to put more rocker in the keel. I was able to figure out where I want to install the perminant seats, so I will be building those one evening this week.
I enclosed a few pictures.

Holy Shamoley.

I don't know what to look at-- the boat, or the scenery! That slate-gun-metal sky definitely screams coastal Pac-NW (or SW for you Canadians). Nice spot.

Originally Posted by callsign222

Holy Shamoley.

I don't know what to look at-- the boat, or the scenery! That slate-gun-metal sky definitely screams coastal Pac-NW (or SW for you Canadians). Nice spot.

Here are a couple more 'scenery' shots. The big mountain is Mt. Cheam which is 6800' above the lake.

Rick.

Great Scenery and you can see the volume of the boat. It is huge, though the outside dimensions pretty closely resemble the Eureka. It is a little shorter I think and much less rocker because the displacement would have ended up too high otherwise.

You should have taken a plane down and do the mods by the water. I think it will be necessary to stop before you have all the manoeuvrability you want as I think there will be tendency to overcompensate if you do it quickly. Important to take enough off that it starts to feel different and then live with it for a while.

Not many out canoeing ... I can't imagine why.

MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Great Scenery and you can see the volume of the boat. It is huge, though the outside dimensions pretty closely resemble the Eureka. It is a little shorter I think and much less rocker because the displacement would have ended up too high otherwise.

You should have taken a plane down and do the mods by the water. I think it will be necessary to stop before you have all the manoeuvrability you want as I think there will be tendency to overcompensate if you do it quickly. Important to take enough off that it starts to feel different and then live with it for a while.

Not many out canoeing ... I can't imagine why.

MIK

It is very roomy inside. Keep in mind that I am a pretty big guy, 6'1" and 210lbs (95.5kg). Put a couple of 'normal' sized people in there and you could almost have a dance party.

I thought about bringing my block plane out to the water, but somehow in the commotion of getting ready, I left it on the workbench. To be honest, I am still not sure if I am going to plane down a lot or any at all. I kind of like the way it tracks on the bigger water, and that is where I do most of my canoeing.

There were a couple of die-hard kayakers out, and a handful of powerboats. But it is a large body of water (60km long, 9km wide, 250 sq kms in area), so there is ample room for everyone.

Rick.

Originally Posted by pdr311

To be honest, I am still not sure if I am going to plane down a lot or any at all. I kind of like the way it tracks on the bigger water, and that is where I do most of my canoeing.
Rick.

Very interesting...
If you decide to plane it down and the boat is as it seems very fore and aft symmetrical it might be interesting to take a bit off of one end of the skeg/keel and then try paddling her with the trimmed end forward and then try paddling with it reversed. If the paddler is closer to the stern, as one might be while carry some gear/stores, then the ability to carve a turn might want the ends to be different.

But, kudos on the great design MIK and four cheers on the brilliant build pdr311.

Howdy Tommyboy,

I did think of this too. Certainly anyone who builds one of the these will have some options. But remembering that one way it will be going light with one person aboard, but when there are two paddlers it will be going in the other direction.

I think the analysis would be pretty tricky, but in a way it is a perfectly controlled experiment. There might even be some lessons that will transfer to reall canoes.

Not too far off finishing the plans now. Got a sudden lurgy on landing In Sydney day before yesterday. Spent yesterday horizontal.

But that gave Rick a chance to go through the plans to make sure there are not too many stoopid errors. He did pick some up but not too many.

Best wishes
MIK

Originally Posted by tommyboy

Very interesting...
If you decide to plane it down and the boat is as it seems very fore and aft symmetrical it might be interesting to take a bit off of one end of the skeg/keel and then try paddling her with the trimmed end forward and then try paddling with it reversed. If the paddler is closer to the stern, as one might be while carry some gear/stores, then the ability to carve a turn might want the ends to be different.

I think it would be more effecient to plane an equal amount of both ends to give the canoe a little rocker. This way, when paddling single, it will sit higher in the water. where the rocker will help 'pivot' the canoe to turn. When loaded down with two paddlers, more keel/skeg will be in the water on the ends, and it will track nice and straight, plus two paddlers working in unison will be able to turn it fairly sharp with paddle technique, where the rocker is perhaps less critical. It would be super easy to take off too much and lose the effect of a deep, pointed skeg on the ends.
Tomorrow I am installing the seats. I hope to post pictures then as well.
Rick.

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Not too far off finishing the plans now.

Oi, will you blokes at the back of the queue stop pushing?

Colin

Plan is ready ... just emailing to Chuck now. Plan will be $30.

(Rick, I did proofread it but I want your corrections too - as you know I do continue correcting the plans so I am sure you pick things out ... there was quite a bit)

MIK

Do the plans include an option for chine logs instead of stitch 'n glue?

Which of the two methods would be faster for someone (like me) who hates stitching up panels and putting down fillets?

Howdy,
The plans document both the fillet and the glass tape method using epoxy and cover using alternative glues and polyester resin.

To go down to a full third construction method would have made it too confusing, so the plans say that the wood option is possible, it gives the chine log size and the amount they have to overlap the edge of the ply to allow for the bevel but not a comprehensive method - just too cluttered and confusing.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/boatmik...7622884183439/

Best wishes
MIK

Originally Posted by Boatmik

Howdy,
The plans document both the fillet and the glass tape method using epoxy and cover using alternative glues and polyester resin.

To go down to a full third construction method would have made it too confusing, so the plans say that the wood option is possible, it gives the chine log size and the amount they have to overlap the edge of the ply to allow for the bevel but not a comprehensive method - just too cluttered and confusing.

Best wishes
MIK

I agree that introducing a third building method would be confusing, but anyone who has built a craft using chine logs would be able to 'modify' the construction plans to use them instead of 'glass and tape. Because the sides and bottom are truly developed shapes, you would know only to plane down the ply. The process of gluing a chine log to the sides doesn't need much explanation. Leave the chine log 4 or 5mm proud of the bottom edge of the ply, and spend an hour or so of enjoyable time hand planing down to get the bevel correct. Use a stick across to the other side to make sure the bottom sits down flat and make shavings. Easy-peasy.

Rick.