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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
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    65
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    8,138

    Default

    That second point of the tanks making the boat tidier is a good one. We use that in the Eureka to make the tricky transition from an angled chine to a butt join as the panels twist into the stem much easier.

    MIK

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    87

    Default

    My guess is there's about 25-30 kilos of buoyancy in there. I'm thinking of putting it in the neighbour's pool to check that out, and the stability. My passengers haven't let me capsize them... yet.

    And waiting impatiently for Duck Flat to send me the destructions for the drop-in sailing rig

    Thanks for the encouragement!

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

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    Hi Michael,

    The plans from Duck Flat will be along quite quickly. If the PDF plans take more than one working day give me a yell and I will send them to you direct. But Ducks are pretty good.

    Best wishes
    Michael

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Duck Flat are good: I placed the order Sunday evening and the pdf was in my inbox first thing Tuesday morning.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    87

    Default QC Buoyancy tanks

    The childer and I spent an instructive hour with Awi Zomé! in the neighbour's pool. The primary goal was to get some experience falling out and getting back in, while also checking out the buoyancy. Primary conclusion is that my buoyancy tanks aren't big enough, certainly not if I want to install the sailing rig.

    I thought the stability was excellent: it seemed we could sit there all day on a 45 degree tilt and all the canoe wanted to do was lay back down again. Once I rolled out, the canoe was easily righted again and sat there with four inches of water in it. Getting back in was dodgier: by myself I could roll back in but only by taking on a lot more water. In the end I was kneeling in the canoe with the bow and stern sitting happily three inches out of the water... and the gunwales amidships about two inches under (I'm about 100 kg). With two people it was much easier for one to help the other board, bail, then second person boards.

    On inspection, the buoyancy tanks each had a few inches of water in them: a couple of small gaps I'd missed when glueing on the end decks. But even after letting both tanks fill with water, the boat as a whole was buoyant enough for the three of us to sit on it about waist deep.

    So... I'm generally satisfied that the Quick Canoe is unlikely (of itself) to prevent me getting grand-children. It's safe enough. I would make the buoyancy tanks larger: those I have were sized by the dimensions of the materials immediately to hand, and are about 450mm in length. 550 would have been better without looking too clunky.

    Immediate plan is to stick some sort of buoyancy under the seats - I've got some polystyrene foam around somewhere, or hunt out that PVC glue. Some sort of bulkhead/tank arrangement combined with mast or centreboard support, as discussed by Clinton and MIK elsewhere sounds attractive.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Rosedale B.C. Canada
    Posts
    147

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    I also own an aluminum (aluminium? Why not?) Canadian Sportspal canoe. It utilizes a foam log bolted to the outside of the hull just below the gunale. The purpose of this is for bird hunters, to get the dog back into the boat without shipping a lot of water. I have found that 'pool noodles' work well in this capacity. Pool noodles are a 1200mm long by 80mm thick closed cell foam product with a hole extruded through the core. By cutting one side through to the core, one can wrap it around the inwale and outwale, and fasten it with nylon cable ties. This serves two purposes; firstly, by virtue of the floatation, the chances of going turtle in the canoe are greatly reduced, as it picks up floatation at just the right time, and secondly, it also protects calves, knuckes, feet and forearms from ineveitable scrapes against the gunale when dipping the paddle in to aggresively, pulling oneself into the boat after a capsize, reaching over to grab the dock when landing, and other pinchy, scrapy knocks against the boat.
    A pair of these on each side could be an improvement over making the airtanks bigger, and also serve as fenders. Plus they come in some really bright colours, and could make the canoe look a little, ahem, unconventional!

    Rick.

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    87

    Default

    Pool noodles! They'd be just the shot! Not sure about the colours; at least they'll help protect me from vanity.

    And the childer could buy them with their pocket money...

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    I just weighed my Quick Canoe.

    To recap: It was built to plans with 1/4" Sureply from Lowes, and Doug Fir for all the rest of the timber. I used fiberglass tape on the exterior chine and interior chine joint. I did not epoxy coat the plywood. I did install an inwale. One coat of primer, in and out, and two coats of Rustoleum on the exterior and one coat in the interior.

    All told in the end, my Quick Canoe weighs 56 lbs.

    How that breaks down:

    The plywood alone-- undressed but cut for assembly-- weighed 39 lbs.

    Outwale, inwale, knees, keel, fiberglass, paint, and seat supports came to 13 lbs, then 4 lbs for the two seats, which comes to 17 total lbs for everything but the naked plywood.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Rosedale B.C. Canada
    Posts
    147

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    Paint, tape and epoxy all weighs a bit too. I found that the paint alone added 2 kilos to my boat.

    Rick.

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queenstown New Zealand
    Posts
    382

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    I'm curious about doing a Quick Canoe in epoxy.

    I've just come to the end of my fast epoxy, I got it as I started building in the winter. I ended up using some of it in 25 - 30 celsius temperatures. It was feasible to do quite a big glue up with it if you mixed less than 100ml batches directly in a ziplock bag and got it out on the job very quickly - mix, pipe it out onto the job, mix and pipe some more, once its all on the job, spread as necessary and put/clamp bits together. I found I had less than 5 minutes to get the epoxy out of the bag before it cooked, but once it was on the job I had a good 20 minutes of work time.

    Good thing was, you could do a glue up in the morning, by mid afternoon it was hard enough to unclamp it and go on with the next stage.

    Ian

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia.
    Posts
    87

    Default

    I used West System epoxy with the slow hardener, because that's what was on the shelf from a few years ago. Over Christmas and New Year, Perth had a run of hot days, 35+°C, which sped things up a bit: I think I had about five minutes working time using a zip-lock bag to dispense a glue mix and around twenty minutes working time if I poured the mixed resin out across a surface and rolled it out evenly.

    I was using the mini-pumps to deliver resin and hardener from the 4 and 0.8 litre containers. Generally worked with quantities of 3-4 pumps; tried a larger lot of about 7 pumps but it went off too quickly and a lot was wasted.

    If memory serves, the slow hardener this summer was somewhat faster than the fast hardener working on a winter evening of something like 18-20°C. Of course, it was always fast enough to make drips a pain to clean up.

    What sort of rollers do people use? I picked up some "high density" foam rollers from Bunnings, 100 mm I think. They were adequate but either the heat or the epoxy seemed to attack the foam a couple of times, leaving small bits of slightly gooey roller to be cleaned up.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    960

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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelB View Post
    What sort of rollers do people use? I picked up some "high density" foam rollers from Bunnings, 100 mm I think. They were adequate but either the heat or the epoxy seemed to attack the foam a couple of times, leaving small bits of slightly gooey roller to be cleaned up.

    3mm West system polyurethane foam roller, I think their product number is 800. Much superior than anything I can get at a hardware or paint store, since it's so thin-- it doesn't soak up as much epoxy.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    'Delaide, Australia
    Age
    65
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    8,138

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    The rollers are available from Adhesive Technologies in OZ. Also Duckflat has tracked down reasonable rollers.

    YOu might possibly be pleasantly surprised how much good rollers save you and how things from other sources can be much cheaper than Bunnings.

    I often give the example of when I was working in a chandlery and we were selling turnbuckles for architectural balustrading for $4, in the 316 grade stainless, but bunnings were $12 something and were 304 grade. Our 3mm wire was 316 grade selling for $2.80/m and bunnings was about the same for 304 grade which is about half the wholesale price but will rust after about a year.

    Remember too that we were buying through the normal import/distributor/wholesale chain too, whereas bunnings would have been able to bypass a lot of that.

    If you don't do your homework - bunnings will get you! They do have "every day low prices" so you can get great bargains in some areas, but you have to be careful with more specialist items or the sorts of things that people don't normally check the prices of.

    The convenience if you just want to buy one or two items from several ranges is useful too.

    Always good to check reputable suppliers within the trade as well.

    Best wishes
    MIK

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Bunyip, West Gippsland, Victoria
    Age
    77
    Posts
    23

    Default Quick Canoe Plans

    I've built and sailed and subsequently sold a GIS, as I am now going back to live in the UK. My house there is on a mountain river (the River Cocker, in North West Cumbria) and want to build a Quick Canoe for trips on the river. I can't find plans available on the Duck Flats website. Where can I get them please? Any help would be much appreciated.

  16. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    12,881

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    Quote Originally Posted by gsg270 View Post
    I've built and sailed and subsequently sold a GIS, as I am now going back to live in the UK. My house there is on a mountain river (the River Cocker, in North West Cumbria) and want to build a Quick Canoe for trips on the river. I can't find plans available on the Duck Flats website. Where can I get them please? Any help would be much appreciated.

    I got mine online here.
    Duckworks Boatbuilders Supply
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

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