Thread: Rough Cut Wood Sizes - OZ Goose 12ft build in Germany

Yes, Paulownia for the spacers in the rudderbox and daggerboard case. However, I chickened out and used Hoop Pine for the stiffeners. However, as you say, as long as you have bolts holding the pintles, Paulownia should be fine for the stiffeners as well as they are so short. I would even use Paulownia for the tiller. With hindsight and experience of it, I would use it more extensively than I did.

The way I did my rudder case was to through-bolt everything. I countersunk the inside of the cheeks before assembly so that I could insert short bolts. I have no idea why I didn't do the top stiffener!

Note that the aft bolt of the pintles are also through-bolted, and therefore countersunk on the inside of the cheeks.

Thankyou Bruce and Michael,

I was trying to think of what I was looking at at first and then realized it was a GIS
I'm not really slow. Really nice Bruce.

I'm going with fine grain spruce for the headlogs but maybe use Paulownia for the stiffeners. I'll see how it all pans out.
I'm toying with the idea of laminating 8 strips of 20mmx5mm Gaboon ply for the tiller. I'll do a dry run and see what comes out. I think it will look interesting. The nice part is I have a lot of bits and pieces left from my Eureka build so I can mix and match what looks good. My main goal is to build the hull light.

I noticed today that there are no inspection ports in the RV plan. I guess it's a swings and merry-go-round thing. If there are ports then exposing the inside of the tanks to the elements it would make it safer to epoxy the insides. Then of course that increase the weight. Without the ports and the epoxy would make it much lighter.

Thoughts to keep me awake at night

Thanks again, Kev.

Originally Posted by Flatdog

Thankyou Bruce and Michael,I'm toying with the idea of laminating 8 strips of 20mmx5mm Gaboon ply for the tiller. I'll do a dry run and see what comes out. I think it will look interesting. The nice part is I have a lot of bits and pieces left from my Eureka build so I can mix and match what looks good. My main goal is to build the hull light.

I would suggest make the tiller a little bigger in both dimensions to allow for the plywood having only half the strength in the longitudinal direction.

I noticed today that there are no inspection ports in the RV plan. I guess it's a swings and merry-go-round thing. If there are ports then exposing the inside of the tanks to the elements it would make it safer to epoxy the insides. Then of course that increase the weight. Without the ports and the epoxy would make it much lighter.

Thoughts to keep me awake at night

I spent some time chasing down a chap that had built a number of near national champ level Sabre dinghies a fair while ago. He would build a boat a year and improve the methods each time. So he had a really good idea of the weights involved.

He said that if you fully epoxy seal a Sabre with care the boat will end up a bit less than a kg OVER the minimum weight allowed for the class.

His notion was that this was worthwhile because the boat would not pick up any significant weight through moisture over the intervening year. He had worked it out carefully.

A boat sealed with the lighter varnish or everdure on the inside (they are mostly thinners so when the thinners evaporate from the matrix there is plenty of opportunity for water or water vapour to get into the wood) would put on much more weight than a kg over the course of a season. He fount that it could be 2 or 3 kg extra (5 or 6lbs). By washing the boat out and drying it carefully over winter it could be brought back to minimum weight.

But the epoxy sealed boat would not alter weight much at all.

Swings and roundabouts. If you want the OzRacer to be super durable .. I would precoat the faces that go inside the tanks. That way you have the best control of the consistent thickness (and weight) of the coating. If it is lower quality ply and lots of cost savings made I would consider varnishing the inside to save money there too.

The best pathway for building is to be consistent.

Best wishes
Michael

Inspection ports and bungs can be wherever you want. I generally don't use bungs and prefer to sponge out any water (rare in an epoxy built and sealed boat) through an inspection port.

MIK

Agree Mik, there is no better way of sealing timber than epoxy as it doesn't leave the micro tubes behind that evaporative cure finishes do. Especially important inside the hull where the humidity can get high and moisture can penetrate through the micro tubes to the timber and the boat gains weight. Take the weight hit up front, and that's it, no more weight gain.

For the same reason, painted steel will still rust, but it won't if epoxy coated.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

My wife and I payed a visit to the biggest wood handler in South Germany this morning and for my up-coming birthday my wife gave me the timber for the mast, spar, boom and foils as a present. We were catered for by the owner and recieved VIP treatment as boat building in the Black Forest is not too common and is seen as a bit eccentric .

I'm really pleased with the timber quallity. They only had Oregon in 6m lenghts so they cut the offcuts into sizes for the spars. They only sell the whole lenghts because they definitely don't have a demand here for Oregon off-cuts. All in all I'm pleased.

009.jpg010.jpg012.jpg

Well. Maybe not so fast.

I 've marked out the mast staves and planed down the two narrow staves. When I marked the center line I used a lenght of stretch cotton which gives a fairly fine line to work to. I started out with the electric planer but then opted for the jig saw first. As you can guess I'm not a traditionalist. I then gave them a hit with the belt sander and finished them off with a piece of 100 grit wrapped around a wooden block.

They are now sitting on that piece of Paulownia which I was intending to cut for the core blocking until that can of Becks got in the way. Not wanting to mix beer and table saws I called it a day. And then had another one.

003.jpg006.jpg008.jpg011.jpg

I got the core blocking cut up this morning and glued up the narrow staves. The old ladder worked great as a support to glue up the staves.

I started on the foil staves this afternoon. I'm uncertain how I'll go about gluing up the foils. I have thicker Oregon staves with thinner Paulownia inbetween. The Paulownia is in 2m lenghts so to do the foils in one piece I'd have to butt join the extra pieces. I could do them seperate and then I'd have them both with full lenghts. The more I think about it I don't think the joins would be that visible in the Paulownia.

Cheer, Kev.

005.jpg007.jpg009.jpg011.jpg

G'day,
The idea of butt joining the Paulownia for the foils didn't appeal to me in the end so I'll glue them seperate. I cut them up tonight and cleaned up the mast ready for glueing.

Cheers, Kev.

001.jpg002.jpg

I think this is going to be a really beautiful boat. I have been seeing the pictures of your canoe and from the images you put in this thread, it looks like you do a very good job with this one too.

Thankyou Engblom,

I think if you like doing something you'll do it well. Michaels plans are foolproof if you stick to them and follow his advice. I learnt so much from the Eureka build including how to fix a few problems I had along the way which I created myself. The input of the members on this site is also invaluable. I don't think there's another site on the internet like it.

Here's looking forward to the new adventure.

Cheers, Kev.

I got into some serious gluing last night and today. I glued up the rudder last night which went smoothly but when I glued up the rest today it was a fight from start to finish. Just one of those days when the epoxy was going off too fast and the staves were slipping around but in the end it worked . I used one of those clippy bag things instead of the snap-lock bags and it worked really well as I used it to squeeze the epoxy down to the corner of the bag. The ladder also worked great again. It makes a really handy jig because it's straight and also gives lots of points to clamp to and places to wedge things into line.

I was also looking at the wood for the boom and yard but that was as far as it went. I noticed it has started to warp. It's not suprising as we have really high humidity here at the moment so I'll probably have to make that my next job.

Cheers, Kev

003.jpg004.jpg005.jpg006.jpg007.jpg009.jpg

One trick I used whenever bits are likely to slip when under clamps is to insert very short panel pins and then snip them off so that they protrude about 1 or 2mm. It saves lots of cursing!

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/b...0/#post1047122

Originally Posted by woodeneye

One trick I used whenever bits are likely to slip when under clamps is to insert very short panel pins and then snip them off so that they protrude about 1 or 2mm. It saves lots of cursing!

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f169/b...0/#post1047122

That was some good cursing I used too Bruce You've just jogged my memory. I knew that and never even thought about it. The immediate problem was that the staves wanted to slip upwards but I noticed when I checked a few minutes ago that they've also moved sideways. I'd already clamped them down to keep them flat and I've allowed enough in the lenght so I can trim everything to lenght.

Thanks, Kev.