Thread: Rough Cut Wood Sizes - OZ Goose 12ft build in Germany

After looking through the PD/OZ Racer and Mkll builds I see the mast step is constructed differently and in the RV's the bolt isn't used. Therefore no slot in the mast foot .

Note to Michael. Could you please take the bolt out of the materials list in the RV plan otherwise world champion procrastinators like me will read all sorts of things into the plan that aren't there . If I'd stuck to the plan I wouldn't have had anything to worry about . I think I could give Bitingmidge a run for his money on the procrastination front.

Cheers, Kev.

G'day,

Bolts and slots aside .

I got into some serious planing and sanding and now have the mast ready for the wet stuff. Planing the mast down I think I wrecked a set of blades on my electic plane. Epoxy's fairly unforgiving. I'm not really doing add's for Bosch but I find that their home worker green range of tools hold up to the job and if you have any problems they deal with it straight away. The older model router here sells on Ebay for more than the newer models do.

When I built the Eureka I couldn't find Oregon timber but have since found a handler close by. It makes a huge difference to use this wood. The local pine I used here was very hard to work as the grain was inconsistant. Easy to plane but very hard to sand with the softer lighter wood leaving hollows in the face. Oregon is very nice.

Cheers, Kev.

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G'day,
In my boom and spar blanks there's a slight curve in the length. It's fair along the whole length. The timbers are 3.5m Oregon and the curve is about 15mm. I'm wondering if I have to have the curve up and use the downhaul to straighten it out or is it not worth worrying about. I was wondering if it would affect the shape of the sail. The boom has the same curve.

Both pieces were perfect when I left the timber yard but I think this might be due to the high humidity where we live. They've been stored flat but living next to a forest has it's good and bad points. I want to get them planed and epoxied before they get any worse.

Thanks,
Kev.

G'day
I've spent the whole day getting the foil blanks to size and ready for shaping. The guy I bought the wood from said he would run them through his thicknesser for me but that would have been a 70km round trip on one of the most traffic jammed stretches of autobahn in Germany. It definitely needs patience. It's not so much taking material off as taking it off evenly. In the end it worked and maybe tomorrow I can shape the foils.

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Kev, those foil blanks look great. I can appreciate how much work was involved in getting them flat. I am at the same stage with mine. As mentioned in Mik's plans quite satisfying.
I am particularly impressed with the high tech tool, leaning against the wall in the first pic. I think it is called a "broom". You seem to have utilized it to great effect throughout all of your workshop area.
I do have a serious question, which you may know the answer to. I noted that both of your blanks have the trailing edge corners cut off as per the plans. Do these diagonals get shaped like the rest of the trailing edge? i.e. quite narrow. Or are they left so one end of the diagonal has the same dimension as the rest of the trailing edge (narrow) and the other end much larger?
Now I'll just have to see if I can find one of those "broom" things. They seem to work wonders.

cheers Trevor D.

G'day TeeDee,

Thanks. I try my best . The broom and I go way back. I was always taught to keep my work space clean and clear. I guess it's a good habit. Besides my wife has to put her car in there each night and after stealing the garage for five months last year while I built the Eureka it's only fair.

The shaping of the trailing edge follows the curve. I'm on a different build to you but I think the foils are all the same basic form. There is a small drawing in my plans that show the areas of the leading and trailing edges as shaded areas and the trailing edge shaded area follows the curve around. I would almost be certain it would be in your drawings somewhere. The two shaded areas meet at a point when they reach the bottom of the foil. I hope this makes sense.

Cheers,
Kev.

Kev, thanks for the reply. After I posted the query, I did a good look around at some other foils and decided what you describe is what was needed. Your reply confirmed it.
I think what created the doubt in my mind is the order I did some of the steps. After laminating the strips together, I started on shaping the rudder, without cutting the trailing edge corner off. This then created a wedge effect on the trailing edge. The little voice in my head then said "Hmmm that doesn't seem right".
The voice was correct, so can now keep going,
cheers Trevor D.

G'day,
I'm still trying to work out why anyone would take a really nice square length of wood and then make it round. I mean it started off round as a tree and then was milled square and now we work it until it's round again . Actually the three oversized dowels could be epoxied together to save all the work.

I've been trying to beat the weather here to get the mast, boom and spar finished but I'm not going to make it. Doing the shaping wasn't something to rush and I'm still not finished. Once I got it down to eight sided I couldn't see any way to mark it for sixteen so I just guessed and it worked out fine. The temperatures are dropping in the next few days so the garage is out for epoxying. The alternative is to use an upstairs bedroom we're renovating and feed all three through the office window upstairs. At least it'll be nice and warm. It was a really satisfying job doing the shaping. I'll get it finished tomorrow and maybe start shaping the foils.

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I'm getting to the point where I'm just about ready to epoxy the spars. I've been looking around at other threads to see if I can get an idea of how to set them up. Michael suggests using a piece of MDF or a board with a piece of tape on the contacting edge. I don't really trust the idea where there's the long piece of glass mat on the bottom of the mast (Lug version). I can see potential dissaster if the glass mat shifted in the process of turning the mast. One way I was thinking of would be to glue in 10mm wood dowels in the spar ends so the dowels could sit on saw stools and when the epoxy's dry the dowels could be cut off and sanded down and become part of the boat.

Can anyone give me an idea of what they did.

Thanks for any help,
Kev.

Originally Posted by Flatdog

One way I was thinking of would be to glue in 10mm wood dowels in the spar ends so the dowels could sit on saw stools and when the epoxy's dry the dowels could be cut off and sanded down and become part of the boat.

Close to what I did. Instead of dowels I hammered a big fat long nail into each end. One benefit is the nail head can grip into the saw horse and not slip off very easily. One drawback is the nail can bend under too much load.

Thanks for the reply Dave,

I've just been reading some of the stuff on your blogs. I'll have to take some time out with a beer and have a good read.

I'm still tossing it around with which way to go. I was also thinking of using a couple of 150mm (6in) stainless screws. I could pre-drill them so they don't split the timber. I've been thinking about the dowels and there might be a problem holding it stable. I'll venture into the garage tomorrow and have a bit of a play around and see what I can come up with.

Cheers,
Kev.

G'day,
I had all intentions of going into the garage today and setting up the spars ready for epoxy but somehow finished up starting to shape the rudder. I don't know what happened there . The first photo's are from the weekend when I shaped the spar. I'm having physiotherapy for continuing back pain and I have to lift everything I'm working on to a height where I don't have to bend so I use this small scaffold to work on. It's the perfect height. For the spars I just cut a couple of sadles to sit them in but for the foils I can't clamp them to the scaffold because there's pop rivets sticking up. I just have to check the foils on the old desk. Works for me

The best sandpaper we get here is all made in Switzerland. I haven't had any problems with it. I really struggled with the softer lighter wood on the spars as it kept wanting to flatten out between the darker harder grain. I think I got a passable finish but I wasn't totally happy with it. The foils are fairly ABC. I just stuck to what Michael had in the plans and everything worked out. I've still got one of the trailing edges to go on the rudder and I'll maybe have a go at the center board tomorrow.

Cheers,
Kev.

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G'day,
I finally got around to epoxying the mast, spar and boom. I didn't have a roller tray or anything I could use as one so I brushed the epoxy on. It gives a really nice finish. I think I'll do the same with the foils. I've finished the rudder foil except for a light sand. It recieved a small patch up job where a hole appeared in the glue joint when I was sanding . The mast and spars will get packed away until next year and I'll just have to wait and see if I can find the time to glass the foils before winter. That is of course after I've finished the other foil.

Cheers,
Kev.


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Originally Posted by Flatdog

...I'll have to take some time out with a beer and have a good read...

It's the season for Hefeweizen, no?