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  1. #31
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    Todd Bradshaw has been hugely helpful in trying to explain sail shaping to me on the WB forum.

    http://www.woodenboat.com/forum/show...&postcount=107

    Brian

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  3. #32
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    Here is a file illustrating the sail shape achieved using Sailcut4. This is a cross cut version and is getting very close to the final version. This cross cut style reduces the maximum length of the panels down to just under 9' from the longest panel on the vertical layout of 16'. Much easier to layout in the lounge!

    Brian

  4. #33
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    Jul 2005
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    'Delaide, Australia
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    Excellent progress! It also means that a mistake in one panel will waste less cloth.

    Michael

  5. #34
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    May 2009
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    Uk
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    hey guys, just stumbled across this site and thought i might be able to help.... im a sailmaker in the UK and thought i might be able to offer some assistance! I've made sails from your little laser sail (which by the way does have shape in the broadseems) to sydney hobart winning sails including materials from cotton to cuben carbon! im pretty familiar with the freeware sail design software and could get hold of any tools or materials you might want. if given the measurements i could knock you up a computer design for both race and cruise spec.



    Matt

  6. #35
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    UK
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    Matt, that's really kind to offer assistance. Wish you had been here a while back!

    We have a polytarp sail design in place for RAID41 from the PDR polytarp lug riig.

    I have a broadseamed design which was designed on Sailcut4 but would be great to sort out for future builders, and panel shapes added to the RAID41 build drawings.

    To reduce time spent on the "loft" floor after a back injury, for the prototype I am making a "polytarp" design sail but using 4 oz dacron. Just completing the sewing of both sails right now. Just stopped for a breather and saw your post.

    Where I would be really grateful for advice and any assistance is the next stage.

    I need to make my mind up whether to hire star tooth grommet tools from Point North Fabrics and what size to choose as well, or go ahead with my original plan to have soft clews using webbing at the corners. And also whether to use grommets or webbing for the yard and mizzen mast lacing.

    Just running out of white V69 thread and need a bobbin of black V69 if I go ahead with the webbing idea.

    Brian

  7. #36
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    UK
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    Just completed the sewing of all panels and the two batten pockets. Really does make you realise how much work sailmakers get through to make our sport so pleasurable.



    Brian

  8. #37
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    May 2009
    Location
    Uk
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    If you can let me know Luff, Leech, foot and head measuremnts i'll have a quick look at similar sizes designs for corner specs. Soft eyes are best if you've just spent 4 weeks varnishing your spares, but it would put a huge strain on a domestic machine. We use small size 'oo' eyes for lacing to the mast and gaff which seems to be the best solution. Do you know which supplier your 4oz dacron came from? Also how much leech hollow have you put in and how many layers you've put in your patchs? these are all simple cheap things that can make the sail last twice as long. Just checked out 'point north fabrics' never seen there site before, the tool hire seems really reasonable but everything else seems very over priced. i'd love to help you all get a cheap reliable (and quick) sail!

  9. #38
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    The cloth is actually from a local chap who sells through eBay.

    Sail area of the main is 7.25 sq m and the mizzen only 1.69. Had planned on 00 for the lacing, think it was 0 for the corners. The USA numbers seem to be different for the same sizes. I think Todd's 0 and No2 are our 00 and 0?

    Each corner has 3 patches, so 4 layers in total. The foot has a full length added panel so 5 layers for the tack and clew. Battens are where the reefing clews are, so similar numbers there as well.

    Have an industrial hand driven sewing machine for webbing sewing. Our normal home machine did ever so well on the sails. Struggled a bit on the corners but managed with some extra hand turning assistance. When we looked at the drive system under the machine it seems to be all metal. Our better machine actually failed sewing a dinghy cover when the old tired plastic worm gears failed.

    I have enough material still to make another full set of sails later on, with full broad seaming. However Raid41 is very narrow and must be easily driven upwind, so fairly flat sails could well suit her.

    Brian

  10. #39
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    For the clew i'd use a No. 2 (about 12mm inside dia). normally we'd drop now to a size '0' (10mm inside dia) for the tack but as your patch's are the same thickness i'd try for the No.1(11mm inside dia) for tack, and throat. Sails looking good from the pictures!! i guess its a plain luff? no rope pulled through? if so id suggest webbing loop at the head. Check out our website www.suffolksails.net.

  11. #40
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    UK
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    The main sail luff has 3mm Dyneema running up the inside from tack to throat. Our local lug sails use 6:1 downhauls so used to a great deal of tension from tack to throat. The throat will be fixed somehow to the front of the yard ( yet to workout for this sail, probably with an eye on top of the front of the yard) , so all the tension stops there. The head will then be adjusted separately.

    Thanks for the kind words, just don't get too close!

    Brian

  12. #41
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    Your prices look very competitive going by the figure for Wayfarer sails. There will be other builders in the UK, and Europe, of Goats and Raids who would be interested. Send me a PM if you prefer.

    Brian

  13. #42
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    May 2009
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    Uk
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    Hi,
    Just thought i'd check back and see how everything was going??

  14. #43
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    Not too bad, MIK designed, BP cut out, AP sewn, BP finished



    http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=raid41&w=27848841%40N05

    Brian
    Last edited by Boatmik; 15th November 2010 at 02:21 PM. Reason: photo link broken

  15. #44
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    May 2009
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    Uk
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    looks good!! and professional!

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