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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    I actually noticed someone else laid some outdoor carpet in their gis to protect the bottom and add slip resistance. I liked that idea! Removable weight is a good option.

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Florida USA
    Posts
    337

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wvjohn View Post
    Mainly thinking about the chinelog. I figure it's going to take a beating as far as things knocking into it. I feel when I build a boat it's more about craftsmanship and art, but it still has to be functional. If sailing and being on the water was my priority, I would buy a small sail boat and mission accomplished. That brings me glassing the hull. From what I've read on here so far, three coats of epoxy is enough, glassing only adds weight. I've also read where builders have noticed that with dings and dents the interior floor epoxy and hull bottom gets compromised and water gets to the wood causing dark stains. So it leaves me wondering, should i glass these to protect the finish i've worked so hard to make beautiful and add weight or accept the wear in the name of performance, always a trade off!
    Wooden boats acquire a rich patina over time. There is no way around it unless you build a show boat that never get's sailed. The only place I deviated from stock reinforvement is I glassed the bottom from the bow back to the start of the runners. I started out with just epoxy on the bottom but quickly found out that sharp shells, especially oysters cut through the epoxy as if it was not there.
    Simon
    My building and messing about blog:
    http://planingaround.blogspot.com/
    The folks I sail with:
    West Coast Trailer Sailing Squadron

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Huntington, WV
    Posts
    1

    Default From another West Virginian

    John - I am in Huntington, and my next build is the GIS.

    I had a similar search for WRC, and found enough locally to build the daggerboard and rudder. For the other parts, I am using sassafras from Allegheny Wood Products in Petersburg, which must be somewhat close to you. It is heavier than WRC (sass is 31 lbs per cubic foot vs. 23 for WRC) but is rot resistant and not nearly as heavy as white oak. Additionally, it smells like root beer when you work with it.

    I found my Douglas Fir at Keim Lumber in Charm, Ohio. I was in Wheeling for work so it was not too much of a side trip, but it would be worth the trip anyway. It was the most amazing lumber store - sort of like a Bass Pro Shops of lumber, all run by the Amish in the heart of Amish Country. A lot to see in the area if you are trying to convince a significant other why you would drive 3+ hours to buy wood.

    Where are you getting your plywood? The best price I have found is at The Hardwood Store of North Carolina, in the Greensborough area. I haven't pulled the trigger yet because I don't have the room to store it, and I may plan a work-related trip so that I can pick it up rather than ship it.

    Anyway, looks like we are on the same path this winter - we'll have to share progress notes.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks for tip orbb. I've been to Huntington a few times for work. One of my favorite cities in WV. Thanks for the tip on lumber in Petersburg. Had no idea, they are only about an hour drive. I'm getting my ply from Harbor sales. It comes out to about 76 dollars a sheet delivered.

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