Thread: Texas GIS
6th Feb 2010, 10:31 AM #106
What I am wondering, is how many GIS are out there that have side arms at BHD # 2 that are 45mm instead of 60mm?
I am a weight freak and weigh just about everything I build. (clothing,gear, boats) Here is an example, I weighed the 1x4 material for my oars to make sure they started out at the same raw weight. I will then weigh them to balance the 2 oars to make them symmetrical as I finish them. I will do do the same for the wales. I want the port and starboard side to weight the same. It may only be a few ounces difference, but if I can start with a balanced boat?
I also know that the most sailing I do will be on starboard tack. After 30 years of sailing in the same region, (Gulf Coast, also known as the Third Coast) you just know these things. So if I have to decide which side of the boat will be heavier, I will chose that the starboard side (up wind side) will have the extra weight.
As I prep for this summers NFT (next fun trip) I know it will make very little difference if the port and starboard side weigh the same. However, I just like to know where I am starting.
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6th Feb 2010, 02:50 PM #107
That is really a whole new level, John. Wow. While you have a fantastic attitude and I enjoy watching your built (from afar), you might have a heart attack if you ever walked in on me and my boat, lemme tell you.
That being said:
I think we need Mik to answer and clear this up. Many people have used the wrong timber for the side frames on BH2. They are narrower as a result. For instance, mine are approx. 3cm across the bottom where they meet the bottom frame, and get wider from there on up, narrowing again near the top. In the eyes of the designer himself, do we need larger side frames on BH2 as stipulated in the plans, or are these sufficient?
7th Feb 2010, 03:46 PM #108
MIK may have a different take, but these frames are in an area where there are a lot of forces at work from the mast exerting pressures and trying to twist the boat...these bulkheads are the area where this is greatest, thus the egg crate/box structure designed by MIK. Also, this is a good place to hit the dock real hard coming in. So, I would say install the wider frames. They are just a couple pieces. You might regret putting the smaller ones in, but you won't ever regret going with the as spec'd wider side frames, or 'futtocks' as we might call the individual pieces of a larger frame.
9th Feb 2010, 05:20 AM #109
[QUOTE=callsign222;1107743]), you might have a heart attack if you ever walked in on me and my boat, lemme tell you.
My kids will give me a heart attack before any boat building project will. I admire any home boat building project whether it be a $50 row boat or a concours show stopper. I learn form all of those that wish to share.
Here are 2 pictures of the spruce wales for my GIS. I was a little surprised to find that there would be such a difference in the way the boards flexed. I intend to use the wales as shown in pic "smooth", which have a nice, matching curve. The pair of boards closest to you in the picture are the outside wales.
In the " uneven" pic, the boards have been flipped over and the curves then become uneven and flatter. When bending them onto the boat, does it really make any difference on which way the boards face?
They were pretty stiff when we strapped them on the minivan.
9th Feb 2010, 06:13 AM #110
Noooo John, you can't possibly use that rubbish on a Goat. Couldn't you maybe find something plastic or carbon fibre instead? But don't chuck it out just yet, I'll PM you my address. I'm sure I could find a use for some ornery old spruce
10th Feb 2010, 02:07 PM #111
Had to make the decision tonight to go work on the boat or go to the local pub (ice house). The pub won. I figured if I worked on the boat tonight, I just might be mailing my spruce wales off to 'woodeneye' because I had a really bad day at the office. I might have just planed all that wood into saw dust and mailed it off, or set it on fire. I was that angry.
The good beer and my 12 year old son, bless his soul, helped calm me down. The delivery of my epoxy helped too. But after a couple of very stout beers, I am ready to work on the boat. No, that is not a good idea. I will just go to the hardware store and buy a new tool. Itís far safer.
10th Feb 2010, 02:22 PM #112
To quote a great and wise man:
"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" -- Benjamin FranklinDavid G
12th Feb 2010, 02:08 PM #113
A old sailing buddy gave me just enough fiberglass cloth to cover the daggerboard. It is 7.5oz & 4oz. Mik recommends 2 layers of 6oz. If I use what I have, I will have a total of 11.4oz of cloth on the daggerboard. So the board will be .4oz lighter in cloth weight.I don't thing there is a problem with that. What I am concerned about is what the finish of the board will be with a rough cloth over a fine cloth.
He also gave me some 7.5oz 2"tape. It's pretty thick and I can see a lot of sanding being needed if I use it on the chines. Is 6oz cloth a lot easier to work with?
12th Feb 2010, 02:12 PM #114
12th Feb 2010, 02:43 PM #115
Done and easy as pie. A little tracing and it took me 10 minutes.
Dark is original, light is new and improved.
13th Feb 2010, 11:06 AM #116
We like new and improved - anytime!
16th Feb 2010, 02:38 PM #117
Nice job...you'll not regret it!
16th Feb 2010, 02:52 PM #118
I have a PDF on how to make the rabbeted gunwales if anyone wants it...it won't upload here, too big. It is just a sketch.
18th Feb 2010, 09:14 AM #119
Hi Clint - put it on your website and put a link there so people can download it.
I will put some links up. Always nice to have visitors to your website!
18th Feb 2010, 09:41 AM #120
It will be up tomorrow, my tomorrow! I will create a page with how-to's etc, if I have space left.
John got the sketch...if he says it is useful, then great!
I just ate some oranges from Texas. (There I am relating to the thread title...)
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