Thread: Texas GIS
23rd Feb 2010, 02:28 AM #121
02-23-10 - a set on Flickr
Here is a new set of pictures on my Flickr site.
02-23-10 - a set on Flickr
My plywood kit should arrive today. So does a new cold front that will drop our beautiful 70 degree weather to freezing for a few days. I am going to need some faster hardener for the epoxy.
My kids have been invloved in all the work so far. We unfortunatly have found out that our son is getting sick after he gets around the WRC dust. We always wear our masks when sawing or using the planer. This weekend we took advantage of the good weather and gave the garage a good cleaning, but did not wear any masks. The dust from that and /or sanding the foils ended up causing my son to get a 2 day headache, fever and congestion. It does not bother my daughter or I.
Has anyone else been sensitive to WRC dust?
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23rd Feb 2010, 02:42 AM #122
on a lighter note
Would like to share some none boat building humor with those of you that don't know much about Texas.
Here is a picture taken out in west Texas near El Paso a few days ago. It is my buddy Mike and his Texas Chihuahua, River.
Just remember "Everything is Bigger and Better in Texas!"
23rd Feb 2010, 02:42 AM #123
It might be something totally unrelated, unless it starts happening in a pattern. Wood is usually pretty inert, and cedar has been around forever in people's closets. I'd be careful of the silica dust from the thickener floating around though when cleaning shop after sanding/cutting epoxied items such as the blades. Hope your son feels better soon.
Don't worry about the temps dropping. I'd be wary of faster hardeners, they might not cut down on time too much anyway. I use a medium speed, and it sets up fine, in temps ranging from 45deg. on up. It actually thickens a bit due to the cold, making clean up a little easier. I sometimes have to hit it with a hairdryer to make sure it gets in all the crevasses. If I leave the glued object in the garage (usually holds steady at 45 F) without applying heat, it takes a about 48 hours to cure hard so my thumbnail doesn't imprint. Applying some heat via a space-heater obviously reduces this number significantly. I haven't seen 70 deg. temps since the beginning of October! I think set up speed is more dependent on the shape of your mixing container, how long you let it sit there or how soon you spread it around. A slow speed in a tall narrow container will go off pretty quick.
Nice to see some pictures, I was wondering what was going on down there in TX. Keep up the nice work, it's great to watch from afar!
23rd Feb 2010, 02:57 AM #124
I thought they grew things BIG in Texas. That pony you're standing beside is a mite on the scrubby side, innit?
Back on the serious side -- WRC does tend to irritate some folks.Sometimes just handling it, but most often from breathing the dust. I've used it a lot over the years, but have never suffered. I've had employees, however, who would get mild rashes & itchiness. Others would have histamine-like reactions - swollen throat and sinus tissues. I've never seen nor heard of anyone having a serious reaction to it.David G
23rd Feb 2010, 06:54 AM #125
You desribe the "histamine-like reactions - swollen throat and sinus tissues" perfectly for what my son David is going thru. Plus it may be a combination of the viruses the kids are sharing at school too. The school said today that a new "bug" is floating thru the school population. It might just be bad timing.
Have you found anything that helps prevent the wood dust reactions?
23rd Feb 2010, 07:32 AM #126
I was not aware that Cedar could do this ... but over 4 years of commercial boatbuilding I became quite allergic to the stuff - serious sinus swelling and asthma like reactions. The level of allergy has reduced substantially since I stopped commercial boatbuilding - at one stage someone just had to cut a piece of cedar in the same workshop and I would start swelling up.
But it is like any allergy - they affect some people but not others. I found it was really important to have a shower and wash my hair (otherwise you get the dust on your pillow! - nothing like 8 hours exposure overnight!) after boatbuilding and change into new clothes. Keep the cedar dusted clothes out of my bedroom.
23rd Feb 2010, 09:51 AM #127
Speaking of wood dust in the hair reminds me of something I noticed many years ago when I was working in the cabinet shop. I have very oily skin and hair and have made it a practice to shampoo daily. If I skipped a shampoo my hair would lie down flat on my skull, heavy and shining with all the oil. But after a particularly dusty day in the shop I somehow managed to skip the hair-washing step. The dust was removed by 1) compressed air when I left the shop and 2) a good brushing when I got home. The next day my hair looked just like it did after the normal shampoo routine. I concluded wood dust absorbs the oils on our surfaces and in our hair, but you could prove me wrong if you really try.
And yes, cedar dust can be pretty potent to some people, just like teak and walnut dust. If your son is sensitive to it there's not much you can do other than keep him out of the shop when the WRC dust is flying.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
23rd Feb 2010, 10:39 AM #128
Well, I learn something new everyday! I never would've thought it! Sorry, John.
Ha! My posts are obviously subject to "contributor accuracy" in the words of PAR.
24th Feb 2010, 05:29 PM #129
Kit & Dry Fit - a set on Flickr
I made some real progress tonight! The Goat Kit arrived and so I jumped right in and dry fit bulkheads 1, 2 & 3.
Now, I need to go look for the thread that tells me how to do the frame bevels correctly?
Kiddo #3 made it back to school, but is still not 100%. I will keep him out of the garage for a while.
25th Feb 2010, 09:14 AM #130
MIK's method of giving a dimension to represent a bevel instead of an angle works very well, especially if you're planing or sanding the bevels instead of cutting them on a table saw. I had thought I would have preferred working with angles, say 10 degrees, but, after doing it MIK's I'd say his method is easier unless the part is a square or a rectangle...not many of those in a Goat!
It's pretty simple, actually: Assume the instructions say to bevel by 3mm. Draw a line on the side where wood is to be removed 3mm in from the square edge. Plane or sand to that line, leaving the opposite edge untouched.The "Cosmos Mariner,"My Goat Island Skiff
Starting the Simmons Sea Skiff 18
25th Feb 2010, 10:47 AM #131
The plans give you most of it.
Exciting that you have the kit! Did you take a pic?
25th Feb 2010, 04:58 PM #132
I took lots of pictures but only posted a few.
Kit & Dry Fit - a set on Flickr
I flipped the foils over to glass the tips tonight. I have put 7oz & 4oz glass on both the rudder and dagger board tips because of oyster reefs we have around here. Sanded and epoxied the rudder and centerboard plywood. Trying the precoat method with the oven paper to see how it works on these small parts.
My kids finished the dry fit on bulkhead #4. It took my son 3 tries to cut the sidearms the correct length. So now we have 4 short side arms to use somewhere. Took my daughter 2 tries to get the seat cleat the correct length. They are both getting the hang of using the Japanese pull saw and a metric tape measure. It is their preferred saw now and the metric system is proving easier for them to measure as long as they don't try to convert it into fractions. I like the saw because it is accurate and very quiet.
Marked out the sidearms for bulkhead #2, but will cut later.
26th Feb 2010, 02:25 AM #133
John - I think it's great that your kids are participating so actively. Please excuse the slight metric system diversion but I just can't resist. Teaching them to build something in metric is the best way to directly show how much easier it is. I grew up using only the metric system. My family moved to the US when I was in grade school and switching over to imperial was very challenging (I actually thought they were pulling my leg, you know mess with the new kid, when they told me about in/ft/yard etc) I think part of grade school science should require the kids to build something relatively complex using inches and then do the same thing using cm. We would be on the metric system by now.
27th Feb 2010, 01:23 AM #134
I know about being confused as a kid too. I started out here in Texas, in/ft/yard, moved to Holland, metric, lived there for 2 years during 2nd & 3rd grade, moved back to Texas, in/ft/metric/yard/deci/ml/oz/color/colour. I was really confused when I got back to Texas. Not only was I confused about how to measure things, the schools in Holland taught me to spell in British!
All bulkheads and transom parts are cut.
I precoated the centerboard case and rudder case sides then covered them in oven paper and smoothed them out. Left them to dry over night.I pulled the paper and tape off this morning.
There are some blemishes, air bubble pits and a few marks from the plastic spreader and a small dry spot. All of these will sand out for final coating.
Any suggestions on improving the outcome using oven paper?
27th Feb 2010, 02:19 AM #135
I also learned the Queen's English first. Had a couple of arguments with my American English teacher, she won .
I'm not sure how much effort you are saving with the oven paper. Is the intent to be able to lay down one thick coat instead of 3 thin ones? I'm having very good success using MIK's skidded roller technique to lay down 3 very thin coats. I'm sanding after the first coat to level the raised wood grain. The following two coats flow out to a very smooth finish with just light final sanding needed to remove the stray bubble or dust speck.
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