Thread: Another UK GIS (Gizzle in Hants)

Originally Posted by davlafont

It's like you're inside my head. I would ask that you get out please thank you very much, but it occurs to me that you might actually do more good than harm in there. Could you please tell the other voices in my head to pipe down and focus on boat building? (If you do vacate my head, please be sure to leave the lights on!)

My chines are cut per Simon's suggestion, but I haven't brought the two sides together yet so I can't say how good his dimensions are.

Just for you davlafont

The hull is now complete and the correct way up, next to be fitted will be the daggerboard case, mast step and seat tops. Need some more epoxy first.

I have also started making a box-boom but no pics yet. Following a conversation on the GIS facebook page it looks like a good option for a stiff boom suitable for a loose footed sail.

I have had it with West epoxy and the amount of amine blush I have to wash off before recoating so I'm going to give PEC epoxy a try, others in the UK have used it with good results and most importantly no blushing!

I have made the mast partner and started on the mast step.

The mast step is made in two parts that are glued together in position and I was expecting the top piece to have a mast locating hole while the bottom piece would be solid to spread the downward weight of the mast, however the drawings appear to show that the hole for the mast goes through both bits of wood that make up the step so the mast foot will rest on the inside of the hull. Is that correct?

Great work!

My reading of the plans for the mast step (and the way I built mine) is that the mast step has three components - and the foot of the mast does not sit directly on the bottom of the boat. From the plans (page 29 of the edition I have):

Notes from Fig. 10b (Mast Partner and Step Round Mast):

Two layers of 20mm timber with holes cut for the mast. The bottom layer can have a drain slot cut as shown.

Add 6mm to allow 3mm bevel each end.

One layer ply with no hole on underside.

Fig. 10a (Mast Step and Partner Square Mast) does not include the same notes as Fig 10b, but the drawing shows a bottom layer of ply as in Fig 10b. I guessed the notes applied to the Square Mast step as well as the Round Mast step.

I assembled the mast step prior to installing it in the hull.

Thanks Bob, I have just gone back and looked at the instructions again and there are notes for the round-mast step that I had not read even though they apply to both types of mast.

As you say there is a third component, the plywood backing, and the mast sits on this. I am much happier with this arrangement as locating the base of the mast directly on the hull didn’t sound right.

Cheers for the input, looks like a case of RTFM.

G

I have done another blog update that shows the seat cleats, mast step and partner and a few other bits and bobs.

I have also moved from West to PEC epoxy this weekend, so far so good but I need to drop the PEC people an email with a couple of questions.

http://georgeisted.blogspot.com/

ttfn.

Not had a lot of time on the goat but finished off the seat top supports, fitted the mast step and the daggerboard case is finally in. There are some pics on the building blog http://georgeisted.blogspot.com/

Out of interest, how do people go about weighing their hull, is this done pre or posting painting and with or without all the fixtures and fittings like mainsheet block, rowlocks, etc? I don’t think my goat is going to be super-light but would like to know how it compares to others.

Originally Posted by Gizzle

Not had a lot of time on the goat but finished off the seat top supports, fitted the mast step and the daggerboard case is finally in. There are some pics on the building blog http://georgeisted.blogspot.com/

Out of interest, how do people go about weighing their hull, is this done pre or posting painting and with or without all the fixtures and fittings like mainsheet block, rowlocks, etc? I don’t think my goat is going to be super-light but would like to know how it compares to others.

I weighed mine as a "bare hull", which means (at least to me); no hardware, all woodwork is complete, no paint or final vanish. When I finished my bare hull all the plywood had 2 coats of epoxy already. GIR ended up at 142lbs, while the best weight is 108lbs. Over on my Texas GIS thread we had some discussion about how wood species and detailing a GIS can add or reduce weight. With mine being a yawl rig is a little heavier because of the extra mast steps. People are still amazed at how light a fully rigged GIS is. OK, here comes the story.........

Mik and I sailed into the small harbor at Seadrift, Texas after sailing 200 miles along the Texas coast. Sailing under mizzen alone we pulled in and made one of the best landings I have ever had. Mik stepped ashore in ankle deep water, I pulled the rudder up and was greeted by a group of fellow sailors asking if we needed help with the boat. Sure, we said. 6 men grabbed the boat, still fully rigged and with camping gear aboard. They nearly fell over backwards when they jerked the boat up. They could not believe how light a GIS was even fully rigged. "No wonder you guys were so fast all the time" they said.

I think Mik and I both had very large grins on our faces.

The End

Originally Posted by john goodman

They nearly fell over backwards when they jerked the boat up. They could not believe how light a GIS was even fully rigged. "No wonder you guys were so fast all the time" they said.

Nice one John.

I'm boxing in the central seat for extra storage, or may just put some weight in there if I am single-handing and want to keep the brakes on a little. Either way it will add a little weight but that's fine. The great thing about the design is that each one is built to the same basic design but tweaked and adjusted to the intended use.

Not sure I'll have any time for goat building this weekend as I'm sailing both days but it's looking good for a launch party early next year.

I don't know how I missed your blog, Gizzle. I have added you to my library of GIS blogs.

Looking good! I vote for a Shark name, by the way. Sharks rule. How about Shark Eats Goat or Goat vs Shark or The Smelly Goat Shark?

Originally Posted by callsign222

I don't know how I missed your blog, Gizzle. I have added you to my library of GIS blogs.

Looking good! I vote for a Shark name, by the way. Sharks rule. How about Shark Eats Goat or Goat vs Shark or The Smelly Goat Shark?

Just a boy at heart!

And yeah, da blog of Gizzle iz da shizzle. George is pulling away from me rapidly with his progress. I can only hope to catch a puff sometime in spring while GB is still too cold. But I fear he has a Shark in Goat's Clothes and will scoot to launch before me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Now there's a name!

Look Dave, you're in Joisey. It's not that cold down there. What kind of hardener are you using? You can totally muscle through, I'm sure. I built mine my unheated garage in central NH with the temperature in the garage a constant 32F/0C or so.... sometimes I rigged a tent.

If you're pushing 45F you're fine, just throw in a heater on low or something near the epoxy region.

(maybe you're slacking for another reason, but I just removed the WX from the equation)

Afternoon all,
managed to get quite a lot done over the last weekend because I have been using up some vacation time owed to me before the end of the year.

There is an update and new pics on the blog here.... Tales of a Weekend Wood-Butcher

Happy Christmas to all my Goating friends, I hope to have a some time over the holiday to get the inside finished so she can be flipped over, cut the daggerboard slot, fit the runners and paint. Sounds quick and easy when you put it like that!

Bye for now.

Glad to see so much progress George!

Michael