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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default 7x12 Mini Lathe Conversion

    There haven't been to many build logs on here for a while so I thought I'd better add one as I've found this forum very helpful over the years.

    One thing to keep in mind and I apologise in advance is that I work very slowly and this conversion will take a lot longer than it should, but I do have a bit of a head start and hopefully you'll be able to stick around till it's done.

    This will be my second CNC machine but my first conversion and Mach 3 based machine.

    The donor is a Sieg C3 7x12 Mini Lathe purchased secondhand from a member of the forums and was in excellent condition. The only modification I made was to the Estop because I really dislike the style it had originally.

    IMGP3821 (Large).jpg

    Originally I planned to make my own but eventually I ordered a conversion kit from CNC Fusion. After a little it arrived like this

    IMGP3744 (Medium).jpg

    The first step was to remove the apron, saddle, cross slide, compound and splash guard. There is an excellent guide to stripping down the C3 available online from ArcEuroTrade. Which leaves me with this

    IMGP23893 (Large).jpg

    I then encountered my first problem

    IMGP3976 (Large).jpgIMGP3972 (Large).jpg

    It's amazing after all these years, imperial to metric conversions still cause issues. CNC Fusion were very good about it, but I opted to try and find a local solution for a faster turn around. A near by engineering firm were more than happy to shorten the ball screw for me

    The next step was to lengthen the slot in the cross slide. This isn't strictly necessary but allows for some additional travel. After some dramas a very helpful forum member again came to my rescue and milled the cross slide for me.

    IMGP3843 (Small).JPGIMG_42613 (Large).jpg

    I think I'll leave it there for now and add some more later

    Next up will be fitting the kit.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Hi Marty,
    Thanks for making the effort to post - the pressure is on now you have posted.
    I will follow this with interest to see how it comes along.
    Are you going all out and making a console?
    Cheers,
    Rod

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Pressure is good Rod this way I can come in here for abuse motivation to get it finished

    Hadn't thought about a console to be honest, but once I get familiar with Mach 3 that may be the way to go. I have thought a lot about setting up a couple of MPGs though.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default Fitting the kit

    To fit the kit all that needed is to drill and tap a few holes.

    I started with the X Axis on the saddle.

    IMG_0028 (Large).jpg IMG_0027 (Large).JPG

    Some interesting clamping methods were adopted Transfer punches came in handy here.

    IMG_0043 (Large).JPG IMG_0051 (Large).JPG

    Although the kit arrives assembled you will disassemble and assemble it many times during the fitting process.

    Once that was all aligned and fitted I moved onto the Z axis. I checked a few times for any binding or misalignment along the axis. I initially fit the Z using two bolts and then drilled the two remaining afterwards.

    IMG_4382 (Large).jpg IMG_4353 (Large).jpg

    I used a 1/4" transfer punch clamped to the coupling to help drive the Z axis ballscrew which made it a lot easier.

    The lathe stripped of the leadscrew and associated gears. It's interesting as the lathe gets more complicated electronically it seems to get simpler mechanically.


    IMG_4572 (Large).jpg

    The two axes fitted.

    IMG_4597 (Large).jpg IMG_4598 (Large).JPG

    Next up will be the Stepper motors.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    3,784

    Default

    Hi Marty,
    Coming along nicely there. Neat way of mounting the screws on the far side of the lathe. I assume you don't need to refit the apron to the lathe.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Hi Rod,

    there is no need to replace the apron with this kit. Got some of the electronics started but will have to wait till next week for an update

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I've got a little bit of the electronics done although it's school holidays so not as much as I would have liked.

    I used some 4pin connectors, which I shortened slightly on the stepper motor wires. I think they should be able to handle the current.

    steppers (Large).jpg


    I used shielded 4 core cable from Jaycar and went to Homann Designs GC-02 breakout boards for the G540.

    IMG_4565 (Large).jpg

    The stepper motors feature covers made by DY Engineering. Both my 155oz and 269oz motors have a current draw of 2.8 amps so both potentiometers were set to 2.8Kohms.

    IMG_4608 (Large).jpg

    Note: On the data sheet and screen printing for the GC-02 boards, the stepper motor pairs are referred to as A/ and A instead of A+ and A- and the same for the other pair. I'm not sure why that is.
    GC-02.jpg

    My wiring legend (Feel free to point out any mistakes!)

    stepper legend.jpg

    IMG_4603 (Large).jpg

    Next up will be the actual controller. I'm considering using an old laptop I have here. I know traditionally you're not supposed to use a laptop but I've read mixed reports if you are using a smoothstepper. Anyone have any thoughts/experiences?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    269

    Default

    Hi Marty,

    Wiring looks correct. The A and /A, B and /B are used to differentiate the two coils labelled A and B. For each coil the A and /A, B and /B differentiate the two wires within each coil.

    There are no right wrong way to do it. Some do use +A and -A, but the + and - in this case are also used just to differentiate the two wires in the coil. A coil is does not have polarity, and in electronics the + and - symbols are used to indicate polarity which does not apply here so I don't use it just to differentiate the two ends of a coil.

    Thinking about it, it may have been better to label them A and a, B and b.

    The main point in wiring up the steppers to to wire all motors the same so that they are interchangeable.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Thanks Peter for providing some clarification. How is your mill build going?

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    269

    Default

    Hi Marty,

    It's going a bit slow at the moment. There just doesn't seem enough time at the moment. I'm tring to get the Z-Axis done at the moment.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I hear you Peter I still have the X3 to go after this

    Anyway this is what I got started on today.

    IMG_4377 (Large).jpg

    The tray cost a small fortune to get made, but I'm grateful they even did the job.

    More updates in a week.

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