Thread: aluminium table top

I don't llike your chances finding any in Tassie.
I was looking for some 40x20 extrusion and contacted Aururam for a quote. A bit expensive for the small quantity I wanted. They have some wider extrusions as well.
Another site that actually has prices (you may need to create an account) is RobotUnits. They list a 25x200 ($204/metre plus GST and freight?)
Also Modular Units have a wide range.
AME have extrusion as well but I don't think they have the sort of stuff you're looking for.

I used 60x30 extrusion from AME (a number laid next to each other) after much searching. No reasonably priced thin wide stuff available in Australia.

I ended up moving to an MDF table on my new machine because I didn't find the T slots that great.

Thanks Geoff will put them in my favourites for now.

Hi Tony I have got two 18mm pieces of MDF cut and just sitting on my machine at the moment, thinking about pocketing nuts from underneath in a 50x50 grid on half the table and 100x100 grid on the other half, thought t slots might have been easier.

I have an XYZ-Carve and the spoil board is 18mm MDF with threaded inserts every 75mm.
I'm planning to change this, still using the 18mm MDF but with T-track inserts - probably every 200mm.
As this would be at least 5x1000mm T-tracks at about $22 each, I'm going with sail track instead. I can get this from Ullrich for $12 for 5 metres.

This is the stuff I have been using on my jigs
some more details here Cheap HD T-Track

That road sign extrusion isn't stocked by Capral in Tasmania.

EDIT; A quick browse brings up a similar (identical?) product from Ullrich.
Extrusions

Went shopping today and bought all the sail track that Ullrich had, a total of 25 metres for a price that would have only (just) bought 3 x 1 metre lengths of T-Track.
I hope it does the job or I'm going to feel a right fool

I used that sail track in my first router. You need to anchor it well, as it's quite flexible and will pull / bend up where you clamp.

Every 50mm or so OK for fixing? It will be fastened to an 18mm MDF base.

EDIT: Checked the hole spacing on a real piece of t-track and it's 75mm so I'll go with that.

Originally Posted by Lucky Phil

Hi Tony I have got two 18mm pieces of MDF cut and just sitting on my machine at the moment, thinking about pocketing nuts from underneath in a 50x50 grid on half the table and 100x100 grid on the other half, thought t slots might have been easier.

Hi Phil

I did this on my machine and I found that the T nuts were a waste of time. Every time that I wanted to use the threaded holes I would have to tap out the sawdust or aluminium dust from the threads first.

In the end I just used bolts through the table and fix it from underneath with a washer and wing nut. This holds beautifully. I also use the holes as a guide for lining everything up. I got some 8mm aluminium rod and made a few 75mm long dowels. These just go into the hole to get a perfectly lined up edge, and l also use one at the end of the work piece so that I can accurately relocate a part if required. Once everything is bolted down, the dowels can be removed so that they don't get in the way of the cutter. I use a piece of chalk to mark what holes I put them into originally.

when I did my table first thing I did was draw a grid on the tables using a 45deg cutter( 1 or 2mm deep) then I put T nuts along the edge to use as clamp down points. Then you can line up you material to be cut and clamp it.

I have glued 2 pieces of 18mm MDF together for now, I am in the process of moving a dial gauge over the cutting area to start alignment so far the gantry is about .015" low on the rhs and it looks like the middle of the table will need a support beam under the cross members to pick it up about .035" as it is low by about .019" (before adjusting rhs).

I have a strip down each side and an area at the back that the spindle doesn't reach so to have a perfectly flat working area I am going to run a fly cutter over working area at 2-3mm deep and then drop in a 6mm mdf sheet as a sacrificial piece that can be replaced as necessary.

For now I think I will still pocket 5/16" nuts in from underneath for ease of part location/clamping as it will be to hard to reach under to do up wing nuts & I have no idea what I will be cutting yet, I do plan on making vacuum hold down jigs for repeat work though.

Here is a link to a 7 minute (boing or some) YouTube video with my dial gauge in the spindle stopping every 100mm to record the numbers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rg0MEWqFg0I

p.s. I haven't got the rhs motor yet so only running the Y axis from the left.
Philip

Hello

http://www.profileautomation.com.au/..._Catalogue.pdf

I make machines the I have exported to 35 countries out of this stuff.

Thye are stronger than normal and the connectoes are good price.

See https://www.youtube.com/user/PROFILE1963/videos

If of interest email [email protected]

regards
Tom

Mod viewed DavidG

Don't do that Phil

I did a similar thing. Iused the CNC to drill several hundred holes in a grid all over the table and I put in some knock in nuts in from beneath the table.
It was a complete waste of time money and effort. The threads of the nuts constantly filled up with sawdust or aluminium and it was very difficult to clean it out again.
In the end, I just drive bolts through the holes and put a wing nut and washer on from beneath the table. Works well.