My budget MDF CNC machine

**Woodlake** · 6th January 2012, 02:25 AM

Rather than pollute the "Projects" thread, I thought I'd start a separate topic and put up some pictures of my machine here.

First, a little info about the machine -

It is based on the book "Build Your Own CNC Router".
I followed the book mostly, with modifications to suit metric sizing and 18mm mdf instead of the 19mm used in the book.
For the electronics, I went with a package from Peter Homann's website.

I took my time building it, but unfortunately I didn't take any progress photos.
The hardest part for me was the electronics, as this is something I know nothing about!
After a few bumps along the way, I managed to get everything moving.
I use Mach3 as the controller loaded onto an old PC I had lying around.
I am using threaded rod for the Y & Z axes, but changed to a 16mm ballscrew and anti backlash nut from linear motions on Ebay for the X axis. This was due to a "whip" problem using the threaded rod over 1200mm long.
I used a cheap chopping board for the Y axis anti-backlash nut, and have found no requirement for one on the Z axis (gravity seems to take care of that).
The router was given to me. It has no markings on it, but looks to me by the colour like it may be a Makita? It is very loud, but has done a good job so far.
I have set up a wireless Playstation controller for convenient jogging - works well too!.
I have added a spoilboard to the top and skimmed it flat, then routed holes at 50mm spacing for me to use shelving support pins and wedges to fix my work in place. Used this method today and it worked well.

I have to say that overall I am impressed with the accuracy of this modest little machine

Cheers,
Paul

**BoomerangInfo** · 6th January 2012, 06:13 AM

Well I'm no expert, but it looks great to me.

Russell.

**Ben Dono** · 6th January 2012, 07:16 AM

Mate that great! Well done. One day I'm going to have a go at building a CNC router table. Did you have a final costing on the electronics and materials?

**Ben Dono** · 6th January 2012, 07:18 AM

BTW.. The playstation controller idea sounds great!

**wheelinround** · 6th January 2012, 08:33 AM

nice

**Cliff Rogers** · 6th January 2012, 09:13 AM

**twistedfuse** · 6th January 2012, 01:06 PM

Nice clean build there Paul and nice clean shed too. lol. Should work wonders.

Daniel

**danny.s** · 6th January 2012, 01:40 PM

I wouldn't call it "modest". An awesome job - well done.

**Woodlake** · 6th January 2012, 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo

Well I'm no expert, but it looks great to me.

Russell.

Thanks very much Russell.

Originally Posted by Ben Dono

Mate that great! Well done. One day I'm going to have a go at building a CNC router table. Did you have a final costing on the electronics and materials?
BTW.. The playstation controller idea sounds great!

Cheers Ben. You should give it a go. It was an enjoyable process and very rewarding when you actaully produce something. I could have gone cheaper on the electronics, but went with a kit that I could also use on an upgraded machine. Even still, the cost should be around $1000 (not including PC, Cad/Cam software and a router).
The PS controller was an idea I saw on the Mach3 forums I believe - it also works with an Xbox controller too!

Originally Posted by twistedfuse

Nice clean build there Paul and nice clean shed too. lol. Should work wonders.

Daniel

Lol Thanks Daniel. It doesn't take long to make a mess though! I might have to consider adding a vacuum attachment at some stage.

Originally Posted by danny.s

I wouldn't call it "modest". An awesome job - well done.

Thanks Danny.

**chrisb691** · 16th February 2012, 01:17 PM

I built the same machine, about 20 months ago, and was very happy with it at the time. Due to ill health it did not get used in 2011, and I have started using it again this year, to cut the parts for its replacement.

There is a serious flaw in the design, that you should be aware of. The bearing trucks on the long axis place a large sideways load against the gantry sides. This causes the gantry sides to bulge out, and rhe bottom bearings lose contact with the rails. This causes the gantry to drop somewhat. This would not be a huge problem, except that the sides don't bulge consistently, which also causes one side to be lower than the other, which is a far greater problem.

The other major issue produced, is that the rotational forces on the z-axis, due to its weight, causes a slight rotation of the spindle. This means that the spindles rotates past perpendicular to the bed.

I would strongly reccomend that you fix a substantial stiffening rib to the outside of your gantry, to prevent the bending occuring. It should then all remain in in adjustment.

**Woodlake** · 22nd February 2012, 02:38 AM

Hi Chris, thanks for the heads-up.

Glad to hear you've recovered from your illness and are back making chips

I'll check for signs of bowing in the gantry sides, although I can't say I have noticed any issues so far.
I did a levelling pass over the sacrificial board and it looked pretty even.

Cheers,
Paul

Originally Posted by chrisb691

I built the same machine, about 20 months ago, and was very happy with it at the time. Due to ill health it did not get used in 2011, and I have started using it again this year, to cut the parts for its replacement.

There is a serious flaw in the design, that you should be aware of. The bearing trucks on the long axis place a large sideways load against the gantry sides. This causes the gantry sides to bulge out, and rhe bottom bearings lose contact with the rails. This causes the gantry to drop somewhat. This would not be a huge problem, except that the sides don't bulge consistently, which also causes one side to be lower than the other, which is a far greater problem.

The other major issue produced, is that the rotational forces on the z-axis, due to its weight, causes a slight rotation of the spindle. This means that the spindles rotates past perpendicular to the bed.

I would strongly reccomend that you fix a substantial stiffening rib to the outside of your gantry, to prevent the bending occuring. It should then all remain in in adjustment.

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