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  1. #46
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    Looks good!!
    Just wondering where does the ball screw for the long axis go is it underneath?
    Regards Ben

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  3. #47
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    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bupton View Post
    Looks good!!
    Just wondering where does the ball screw for the long axis go is it underneath?

    I plan to drive the machine via 2 motors on the X axis, one on each side.

    The gap in the base is for a drip tray as I want to run spray or flood cutting fluid on this machine, but I'm not completely sure how it will turn out in the end.

  4. #48
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    Nov 2008
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    Byron Bay
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    Looking great Chris won't be long before you have it up and running!

    I wish I had the same welding skills, my bench is made from 70 x 70 pine studs!

    Where you mounted the rails on the ally extrusion, did you go to the effort of milling the surface face of the extrusion? or was it pretty flat already?

    Looking forward to seeing your cnc making some chips

    Cheers
    Glenn

  5. #49
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lappy View Post
    Looking great Chris won't be long before you have it up and running!

    I wish I had the same welding skills, my bench is made from 70 x 70 pine studs!

    Where you mounted the rails on the ally extrusion, did you go to the effort of milling the surface face of the extrusion? or was it pretty flat already?

    Looking forward to seeing your cnc making some chips

    Cheers
    Glenn
    I'm still a newbie to welding, there are alot of bad welds on the frame but nothing that cant be fixed up with a grinder, the most important thing is that the top 4 holes are level to which they are very close.

    No milling of the rails, and to the naked eye they straight and flat.

    I hope its finished soon, I've got a big list of things I want to cut out.

  6. #50
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    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    A little update.

    Ended up dumping the aluminium table supports and going with some steel angle, as the angle will pull itself up against the aluminium and also doesnt have the T-slot to collect swarf or coolant if I decide to go down that road.

    How do others level the machine itself? I was thinking of buying a digital level which would be ~ 0.1 degrees accurate but was wondering if there is another way, as you can see each corner has a mounting bolt which can be shimmed (Found out there is also a local shimming mob if I cant get it dead on level with washers)

    Just need to get the little angles recut in some thicker material as the 1.5mm steel flexes a bit.

  7. #51
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
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    3,784

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    Hi Chris,
    Looking good. I copied lots of ideas off your original design for Tubot so stop changing things or I will have to rebuild my machine.

    I use a machinists level to take the twist out of my machines. The digital level will probably work as well but as the base in not as long use it on your rails to get a nice flat area. Your eyes will get it fairly close if you sight your rails like you would use winding sticks.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  8. #52
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    Sep 2005
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    Cheltenham, Melbourne
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    Hi Chris,

    With the stacked extrusions on the x/y axis, are these only held together by the endplates. Or do you have other fixings somewhere?
    Chris
    ========================================

    Life isn't always fair

    ....................but it's better than the alternative.

  9. #53
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisb691 View Post
    Hi Chris,

    With the stacked extrusions on the x/y axis, are these only held together by the endplates. Or do you have other fixings somewhere?
    Yea just the endplates and its not stacked but a single piece of 120x60mm extruded aluminium, being such a short length and the strength of the aluminium I doubt it would need additional supports but the option is there if needed as I dont have anything running under the machine.

    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    Hi Chris,
    Looking good. I copied lots of ideas off your original design for Tubot so stop changing things or I will have to rebuild my machine.

    I use a machinists level to take the twist out of my machines. The digital level will probably work as well but as the base in not as long use it on your rails to get a nice flat area. Your eyes will get it fairly close if you sight your rails like you would use winding sticks.
    Thanks rod, I recon most of the ideas came from your builds already just modified for aluminium

  10. #54
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    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    A long overdue update, decided to just get things moving so back to my original plan of direct driven belts and from there cut some reduction gear boxes for the timing belts or make some mounts for ballscrews, the machine definitely has the torque but its lacking in resolution so I'll see how that works out.

    Its not a pretty solution but it works

  11. #55
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    Feb 2004
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    Hi Chris

    I love the looks of the belts on the Y axis. It is a simple effective way to bypass ballscrews. But are you saying that you are going to change over to ballscrews (or, as my spell checker suggests, screwballs)?

    This is a really impressive build Chris. Nice clean lines and tough looking.

    Bob Willson

  12. #56
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    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Willson View Post
    Hi Chris

    I love the looks of the belts on the Y axis. It is a simple effective way to bypass ballscrews. But are you saying that you are going to change over to ballscrews (or, as my spell checker suggests, screwballs)?

    This is a really impressive build Chris. Nice clean lines and tough looking.

    Bob Willson
    Thanks, it really comes down to how it will handle aluminium if I will stick with belts or move to ballscrews.

  13. #57
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Australia
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    Set the motors up last week and ran them around at 10m/min without a problem, they could even run at 24m/min without stalling, I did push it upto 40m/min but obviously it stalled on startup most of the time.

    Just setting the spindle up today, does anyone know how many poles these chinese spindles have? the VFD is asking me but there is no information on the spindle, not even a brand name laser etched onto it and the ebay listing is long gone.


    I'm hoping to start cutting this weekend as I need a new gear puller (broke my last) and not looking to manually machine it up again

  14. #58
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    May 2003
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    Perth WA
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    That is quick Chris
    Need good reflex to stop that.
    Motor poles setting are 2 with Hyuang (spelling???) VFD and 3 phase spindle.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodm View Post
    Hyuang (spelling???)
    Try to get it right Rod........Huanyang.

    Bob

    So Chris, how come you get that sort of speed and I flunk out at 2m a minute?

    Bob Willson

  16. #60
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    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Willson View Post
    So Chris, how come you get that sort of speed and I flunk out at 2m a minute?

    Bob Willson
    Most likely due to the low speeds the motors run at because they are direct driven, steppers have all their torque down low but that means I also get a measly ~26 steps per mm resolution. 2m does seem a bit slow with the gecko drivers, maybe there are other forces at play here, alignment or a very heavy gantry ect., I wouldnt be able to say with 100% certainty as I've always built with the nema 23/24 motors I have yet to build a larger machine.



    Thanks rod, I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.

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