Thread: Making a new CNC machine

Not a bad price. If you need more 75x75 box look at Aggsteel from onesteel if they are still making it, though its about double the price you paid per metre.

Something about not going through some tests so it cannot legally be used for commercial purposes or something like that, not completely sure but I had some when I had my factory and it was just as good as the expensive stuff from what I could see.

Curious, are you planning to bolt or weld it?

Here was a large machine I made when I had my factory, ended up having to get rid of it. The frame was welded and strong but it ended up with a slight twist (was going to shim it)

Hi Ch4iS

That looks like you used even larger RHS than I am using but with a slightly lesser wall thickness. I don't think that it will make a difference if the welding does make the frame warp, because as you pointed out, all you need to do is shim to bring it back to square again.

I much prefer the idea of welding as it will ensure absolute rigidity and no movement from loose nuts over time

Originally Posted by Bob Willson

Hi Ch4iS

That looks like you used even larger RHS than I am using but with a slightly lesser wall thickness. I don't think that it will make a difference if the welding does make the frame warp, because as you pointed out, all you need to do is shim to bring it back to square again.

I much prefer the idea of welding as it will ensure absolute rigidity and no movement from loose nuts over time

If I were to do it again I would weld a solid frame then bolt the main SHS/RHS rails to the frame, easier to shim a few points than a whole beam

I used 125x75x3mm and 75x75x3mm, I bought the expensive stuff back then, there was no Aggsteel then total cost of the steel was $1000 from OneSteel Cut and Delivered.

Anyway send us some pictures when you get started

Hi Bob just a quick note was meaning to send you this last week.

Tools I have are:
My new baby Horizontal Bandsaw
Lincoln Mig.

I will be starting my Laser build this week all going well just waiting for the parts to tun up cleared customs Friday delivery Monday.

Do these guys at Nundah have any 40mm SHS that your aware of I need to make a frame as well but I have no way of transporting the steel the moment.

Originally Posted by Ch4iS

If I were to do it again I would weld a solid frame then bolt the main SHS/RHS rails to the frame, easier to shim a few points than a whole beam

I would do the same

Originally Posted by WillyInBris

Hi Bob just a quick note was meaning to send you this last week.

Tools I have are:
My new baby Horizontal Bandsaw
Lincoln Mig.

I will be starting my Laser build this week all going well just waiting for the parts to tun up cleared customs Friday delivery Monday.

Do these guys at Nundah have any 40mm SHS that your aware of I need to make a frame as well but I have no way of transporting the steel the moment.

Hi Willie

The people I got the steel from is Why buy new when used will do
It sis actually in Northgate rather than Nundah, but I get a lot of timber from the wood shed just down the road from them.

I didn't see whether or not they actually had any 40mm SHS as that was not what I was looking for, but they do have a fairly large variety of steel sections and they also have some aluminium stuff too. If you have found out soon then let me know and I will have a look for you next time I over there. I can also help with the transport of the steel if they do have what you need at Northgate, as I have a trailer that can be put at your disposal.

I am REALLY envious of the bandsaw. I have just finished putting mitre corners on the steel for the bench top. I say mitre but it looks more like a wave form/free form cut. I used a drop saw from Trade Tools to cut the steel and not only did the cut not come out at 45 deg, (more like 42 or 43 ) but it was also neither perpendicular nor even straight. The only thing that could cause this to happen is if the machine was bent when it was manufactured or if it has suffered some major damage. (It was not damaged at my hands.) Anyway, because of this, I now have to dress the ends of the steel with an angle grinder to get it approximately correct. Nearly there after just 4 hours of grinding.

Hi Bob I had exactly the same drop saw and had the same problems with mine as well even when cutting angle what happens is that the wheel deforms (bends) when cutting and goes off line if you look closely you will see it this is why I have purchased a Bandsaw and sold my cut off saw.

If your still having issues and it starts to give you the snits give me a yell and we can work something out over a six pack or something .

Willy

I have a Makita branded hot saw and its hopeless at 45 Degrees angles.

Heres a blurry picture I ended up buying a cold saw.

OK, It only took me Three F...ing days to get the top of the base made and square. Thank you Trade Tools. ... NOT.

I have also made a picture of my patented 45 degree angle checker. This saved me a lot of time when I was fixing up the '42 degrees' to 'minus 10mm on one side only' but 'at an angle' cuts.

Tomorrow I will try cutting the legs. Maybe it will be OK on a straight cut. Please God let it be OK.

At this rate I estimate that I will be finished approximately early 2012.

Bob

OK
Thanks to willyinbris who took pity on me and helped me to re-cut the legs and end frame pieces on his brand new band saw, (it cut a perfect angle every time), the frame is now welded up and as you can see, I have already covered over most of my mistakes with a thick coat of undercoat.

The frame weighed A LOT when I had finished it and due to the fact that my wife is a weak female type of person I thought that I had better put the whole thing on wheels. $75 later and a bit of drilling and tapping of 16 off 1/4 " holes the frame was mounted on large wheels that allow me to move the heavy frame with one finger. The only thing to worry about now is whether or not it dances when it is under power. I may need to make some wedges to stabilise it.

If you are going to make a machine anything at all like mine then I would strongly suggest that you ask a burly mate to come and give you a hand with the lifting. But I am sure that my back will eventually recover enough to be enable me to stand upright without screaming.

I have sent off emails to various people across the world asking for prices on all the various components that are going to be grafted to the top of the frame. ie. Rails, ballscrews, spindles and VFD etc.

I will also need to check out the availability and price of aluminium sheet in 10 to 16 mm thickness

.There will be a short hiatus while I am waiting for all that info to come back to me,

Thanks to willyinbris (who, for some reason, doesn't mind being called Big Willy ) for his ongoing advice and support.

Bob

Hi Bob,
What size table did you end up with?
Are you going to add intermediates on the top and bracing on the legs?
Keep those posts and pictures coming.

Hi Rod

In the end it wasn't too bad. I only lost 5 mm on both the width and the length, so it finished up 995mm * 1995mm

I will definitely add some cross pieces to the top so that when I put the MDF top in place it will be supported at least 5 times across its length. I am going to weld some 25mm RHS along the inside of the frame top and this will supply a ledge for the MDF to sit on as well. I cannot really do this yet, as I do not know what thickness of MDF I will be able to source. I may even finish up gluing several thicknesses of MDF together to make the top.

As to the top itself; when I have the MDF in place, I thought that I would drill a pattern of 10mm holes over the whole of the surface at 50mm centres. So that would be 684 holes. I would then put a T nut in the bottom of the hole and this would then give a grid that would enable me to lock down a clamp just about anywhere I need to. I may not need to do the whole table as parts of it would not be in a machinable area anyway.

I will also need to add a shelf about 450mm from the top so that the computer has somewhere to sit. And if willyinbris has his way then I may also be incorporating a few drawers under the top as well.

Bob

Hi Bob,
An option you may want to consider is T track especially if you are going to laminate layers of MDF as it makes it easy to fit.
Mcjing here have it for a good price and I believe sail track is cheaper again. May work out a similar price as the T nuts and infinately adjustable along its length. Three strips and cross bars should take care of your clamping needs.
Good to see WillyinBris is keeping you honest.