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Thread: CNC TTU Build

  1. #1
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    Default CNC TTU Build

    Sitting down letting my Christmas dinner digest over a stubby of cold amber fluid, I've decided my CNC Router needs to be bigger.

    Well actually, my youngest son and I were putting together a small model boat today that has been CNC cut from ply (commercially bought kit). This is all good fun. The boy asked if I could make him a kit for a bigger model race boat. My CNC is too small as some parts need to be around 1100mm long.

    So now it's Time to Upgrade (TTU). Well time to start nutting out design and parts list anyway.

    I've been pretty impressed with Rod's latest build so I will probably plagiarise (steal) some of his ideas.

    Here are my initial thoughts:

    • I would like to have a table that will cut a 1200 x 600 sheet of ply. So I guess the table would need to be slightly bigger.
    • Water cooled spindle is on the list
    • smoothstepper and gecko drivers.

    I don't think I'll be able to order any parts until around March so I've got a bit of time to work the shopping list out.

    Time for some Christmas Pudding

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  3. #2
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    Default

    You know about the ebay seller right?

    You can get all your slides and ballscrews from him, motors and power supplies from MS-motor, gecko drivers from gecko directly (best price I have seen but I bought mine when they were on special)


    Just wondering but wheres the best place to buy a smooth stepper if you know?

  4. #3
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    Not sure if I have the right ebay seller for ballscrews and such. Is it the same guy who sells the watercooled spindles?

    There is an Aussie store selling smooth steppers http://homanndesigns.com

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John H View Post
    Not sure if I have the right ebay seller for ballscrews and such. Is it the same guy who sells the watercooled spindles?

    There is an Aussie store selling smooth steppers http://homanndesigns.com

    yea thats him, he will cut to size so just message him instead of buying one of his ebay packages.


    BTW thanks for the link.

  6. #5
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    Hi John,
    It is a funny thing but most of us build a machine then see how to improve on that and build again. I keep building and doing other projects because my wife works at night, son has left home and the old faithful mut and me don't like watching the idiot box.

    Yes the ebay seller is the one who supplies the spindles. Just send him an email and
    he can supply anything mechanical for CNC. I got the square rails through him and so have a couple of others so don't be limited by the round rails he lists.

    Peter Homann does supply the smoothstepper and other boards at competitive prices. He held the pre-aussie dollar drop prices for a couple of weeks so he is very fair in his dealings.

    As far as sizing your machine if you want a finish cut of 1200 by 600 then be generous on rails and other sizes as you loose at least 100mm on each axis for the trucks.

    One of the best tips I can give you at this stage and your experience is to design in protection for the screws and rails. These elements can clog up quick with sawdust so prevention is the best cure.

    I too had a great xmas and over induldged so had better be a good lad for a while.

    Sorry Chris repeating your information - I'm too slow on the keyboard
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #6
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    What is the benefit of the square rails over the round ones?

    So I should be looking rails and ball screws around 1500mm and 900mm for the XY axis to get a usable table size I'm after?

  8. #7
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    The square rails have radial stability whereas the round rails have no radial resistance. Square rails are more expensive though. If the design of your machine is good you can get away with round rails so it boils down to preference.

    Probably don't need to go 300 over size but ordering 1200 rails and screws will not get you a cutting length of 1200. It depends on your design and I usually allow 100 to 200 over for the rails depending on the connecting axis.

    The ballscrews are not as simple and your design will determine the length.
    As a general guide I allow 50mm for machining the ends plus the length of the ballnut. The screws can become a problem if your design does not allow for full travel of the screw - ie the nut is fixed to the connecting axis plate in a way that does not allow for it to travel to each end of the ballscrew. Keep your ballscrew length shorter than longer as it takes more motor torque to drive it.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  9. #8
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    Thanks Rod, now hurry up and finish your build so I can steal some more ideas

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John H View Post
    Thanks Rod, now hurry up and finish your build so I can steal some more ideas
    I have been doing heaps of work but not on my machine. I have a few days off between now and the New Year so I hope to get a day ot two in the shed depending on the family committments. Going to play with the electronics as I am avoiding the couple of hundred tapped holes I have to do in the table.

    I am guilty of plagiarism myself.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  11. #10
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    I spend way too much time procrastinating on things

    Anyway, after I blew my pocket money on a new boat earlier this year, my build got put on hold. Then I was thinking of being lazy and buying a Chinese already built machine. Bugger it, it will be more fun to make my own.

    At this stage I'm leaning towards using the ITEM aluminum extrusions like Crocky did on his machine. Any tips Bob?

    Now I need to work out the chicken/egg thing. Do I get the frame made first and then get the rails/ballscrews to suit? Or do I get the rails/ballscrews and then get the frame made to suit?

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by John H View Post

    Now I need to work out the chicken/egg thing. Do I get the frame made first and then get the rails/ballscrews to suit? Or do I get the rails/ballscrews and then get the frame made to suit?

    Just my opinion but frame first ballscrews 2nd, that way if anything needs to be changed it can.

  13. #12
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    John,
    I always gather all the parts well ahead of a build. I like to start a machine and finish it without waiting on parts to arrive. It is handy to have the rails or at least the trucks so you can design mountings and spacing as you go.
    I never sit down and draw any of my machines and they evolve with the ideas in my head. It does cause the odd muttering in the shed every now and again when things don't quite work out but I enjoy the challenge of doing it on the fly.

    You are well equiped to make a decent machine so look forward to seeing your machine build.

    I just ordered some G251's for a mid sized machine that is in my future plans. I would hold off on a smoothstepper for the moment - he has not done any work on it, it is still in Beta mode and he has abandoned his own forum. Not bad mouthing the guy but it does place a question mark about the future of his poroduct. I have seen a few of these projects fire up like the smooothstepper then fade away.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  14. #13
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    hmmm, that's a bit of a bugger about Smoothstepper. I'm in no rush to buy one so hopefully the guy has re-surfaced when it comes time.

    I'm too much of a chicken to build on the fly, so I'm working on some ideas to at least get the major components and dimensions.

  15. #14
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    Here is quick mock up of the basic structure.

    The Legs and Bottom Rails/Beams are 40x40

    The Top Side Rails are 40x160

    The Top cross beams are 40x120

    The idea is to have castors on the base and enclose the sides. Maybe steal Rods idea of a dust chute?

    Just wondering if this configuration is going to be rigid enough with the size extrusions?

  16. #15
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    I decided to do a bit more detailed plan. This time I swapped the cross beams to 40x40 heavy. No idea if this is going to rigid enough.

    The angle on the sides with the rails look familiar

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