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Thread: Reverse painting with perspex
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19th June 2013, 10:31 PM #1Intermediate Member
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Reverse painting with perspex
Hi
I want to try and do some reverse carving and painting on perspex/acrylic
as Gary did in his
Adventure into Reverse Carving Perspex
post.
What I want to know is;
1 - what is the best tool bit to use
2 - Do you cut only deep enough to remove the paint or do cut into the perspex
3 - If you cut into the perspex, how good of finish should you have
4 - What type of toolpath is the best to use, pocket/engraving ???
Regards,
kiwiken
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19th June 2013 10:31 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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20th June 2013, 08:24 AM #2
I don't know the answer to the other questions but
Remember to cut the design in reverse!!!!Every day is better than yesterday
Cheers
SAISAY
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20th June 2013, 02:59 PM #3
i did a Port Power one a while back
but i painted each cut as i cut them , the perspex was 10mm thick and i cut too 8mm thinking you would see the depth of cut , but the perspex flattens the look of the cut , you can see the height , but it looks like 3mm from the front not the 8mm that it is cut too
i used a 2mm flat end cutter , and it is not pritty on the back , but the front came out perfect , but the spray paint got under the protective plastic , and i have started to remove it with micro mesh pads
DSC_0274.jpgDSC_0273.jpghow come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole
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20th June 2013, 11:32 PM #4
I use 1,3mm end mill or V-bits up to you. I start at 1mm and will go to 3mm deep. First I spray the back the colour I want leave it to dry 24 hours. Then do my cuts and use oil base paint most of mine are only 3 colours but if you have more then that I would paint at each cut. This would take a bit but it would look good. David
giveitagoturning @hotmail.com
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21st June 2013, 02:13 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Ken,
I was lucky enough to have Gary demonstrate this at a CNC gathering I had many years ago now. I have since done a few and it is quite easy to do.
It does tie your machine up as the paint needs to dry between layers so you have to be patient.
First lay down your background colour as this will save the problems with overspray of progressive layers. If you are using Vectric software then use Vcarve to do your profiles - you can use a combination of vbit and flat clearance tool to save machining time. Depth of cut is 0.1mm for each layer. ie First layer 0.1mm next layer 0.2mm and so forth. You can never cut acrylics with a clear finish but so long as you get enough depth of colour when you spray it will hide the machining marks from the face. I use Supercheap Export spray cans as they are cheap and dry reasonably quick. Cover your machine as you need to spray while the job is still mounted on the table so you maintain your x and y references for the next cut.
Rather than ramble on give it a go as it is not hard to do. Back looks crapola so if you mount the finished job on a board so you can't see the back it looks great.Cheers,
Rod
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