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Does anyone know what the specs are for 2.2KW Chinese water cooled spindle motors for :
1 The operating temperature range of the motor. (Not the ambient temp range)
2 The recommended flow rate for the coolant.
I have emailed the question to a few sellers on eBay. But they were no help at all.
I doubt any one knows the answer to your question as it was posted two days ago and no replies. I don't know either but I have the same spindle and it has been running 24000RPM for hours at a time lately and barely gets warm with a 1mm cutter shaping ply wood. I have a small $24 pond fountain pump in a 10ltr plastic tub with car radiator coolant in it. Not sure of the flow rate of the pump now, but it is not much, maybe a few ltrs a minute. Seems to work for me.
Hope this helps a little.
I haven't seen any temperature specs but I did see a reference to water flow of 2 - 2.5ltrs/minute on the cnczone.com site.
Like the others we have a aquarium pump, car coolant through a radiator and the best we have done is get the water to 30c on a 25c day and that was pulling 3-4 amps for 2 hours
The coolant is very slow through the small ports in the spindle but it does the job.
Slightly OT - sorry.
Russell, do you have a listing for the aquarium pump you're using? Not a lot of faith in the pump that came with the spindle/CNC
It's a EHEIM pump
Spec plate attached
I read this somewhere;
"If your water flow fills a beer glass in a whole minute, the water temp will not rise more than 20C [36F] while cooling
a 3kW [5HP] spindle that is only 80% efficient and running under full load. . . . if my memory of thermal calcs still serves me right. . . . "
Many new users worry overly about complex cooling systems. It doesn't take much. Keep it simple.
Here's the pump I'm using :
Johnson Aquajet WPS Pump - 3.8LPM, 12v - BCF
Its a diaphram/pressure pump so has no issue pushing a low volume through the small piping of the spindle. I'm running it with only 5 Vdc as it was overkill at 12.
Most aquarium pumps I've seen are impeller types and don't work well if there is any back pressure
Agree with the KISS statement as the motor does not seem to generate much heat. I do try and keep the spindle current draw below 3 amps and use this as a gauge on how the machine is cutting (ie make sure I'm not pushing it too hard or the cutter is dull)
they need bugger all water , to cool them , and i would say the internals of the spindle could easily reach 100c with out damage
i went through 2 pumps ( pumps not designed for the job ) and have been running this pump http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240-Volt-...#ht_500wt_1063 for over 100 hours now , i run a small amount through the spindle and the rest bypasses through a radiator , at 7amp for 24 hours it was running at 52c (33c-27c room temp)
my 240volt china made "diaphram" pump ( looks like the one mentioned in post above ) only lasted about 120hours before it gave up , and the original pump that came with it lasted 75hours
how come a 10mm peg dont fit in a 10mm hole
I always forget to put the YMMV tag. Mines DC and so far so good. I'd guess I've well and truely passed 120hours but not 100% sure. Like most things in the homebuilt budget its a crap shoot on what is value for money. your milage may vary as they say!
I also put a visual/ paddle wheel flow indicator inline so I'm sure that it is actually circulating.
One thing I would recommend against is any setup that creates pressure in the spindle housing... the bearings reportedly are cheap so why would the seals be any different... I'd rather avoid stripping the spindle down to replace bearings as long as possible.
SDS ...7amps draw...wow what were you cutting and how big of a cutter / DOC / feedrate? max I've seen on my setup is 5 amps peak and that was nearly stalling a 12mm cutter in alloy.
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