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Thread: Stepper heat

  1. #1
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    Default Stepper heat

    Well I've just finished my fist "long" job. Took 1.5 hrs to machine two moulds in a 23mm thick piece of HDPE.

    I realised after about 45 minutes that I forgot to turn the spindle water pump on but surprising the spindle felt hot, but not burning hot, and it cooled down very quickly when i turned the pump on.

    When the job finished however, and I leaned over the machine to inspect the piece, I brushed against one of the steppers. It, on the other hand, was hot enough to burn. Is that to be expected? Is it likely something is wrong?

    I've just checked and realised my roughing path had an 8% stepover, which is why the job took so long. I was using a 6mm 2-flute ballnose, with a 3mm pass depth too. It should've only been about 30 minutes for the whole job really. Lucky I was only testing with the two moulds, and not the 10 for the full sheet.

    Also had another heat problem with my plugs I made prior to this job, also in HDPE, and using a 3mm, 4-flute carbide bit for the finishing path. I have some single flute bits coming, but I needed to try my design out. Well, it seems the 3mm bit melted the HDPE out of the way, and it formed a solid blob around the bit. I tried to increase the job speed, but no luck. I guess it's just a matter of the wrong bit for the job?

    Any suggestions appreciated.

    Thanks. Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

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  3. #2
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    Default

    They naturally run hot, if you want to double check things check the current and voltage settings on the driver and check that they don't exceed the motors rating.

    If you have a temperature gun check that the motors don't exceed 80 degrees, if everything looks good its normal.

    Mine run at about 40-45 degrees, but my machine is also one big heatsink.

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoomerangInfo View Post

    Also had another heat problem with my plugs I made prior to this job, also in HDPE, and using a 3mm, 4-flute carbide bit for the finishing path. I have some single flute bits coming, but I needed to try my design out. Well, it seems the 3mm bit melted the HDPE out of the way, and it formed a solid blob around the bit. I tried to increase the job speed, but no luck. I guess it's just a matter of the wrong bit for the job?

    Any suggestions appreciated.

    Thanks. Russell.
    with 4 flute 1/2 your spindle speed compared to the 2 flute ,i had my 8mm up to 18000 rpm for 12 hours ( to fast for collet ?)
    a squirt bottle to call the tip ?

  5. #4
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    did your HDPE warp ??? ive got a mould that has turned its corners up 10mm each side , its perfect , clamp it down flat , make a carbon fibre part , once its completely hard , release the clamps and the part just pops right of the mould

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer View Post
    did your HDPE warp ??? ive got a mould that has turned its corners up 10mm each side , its perfect , clamp it down flat , make a carbon fibre part , once its completely hard , release the clamps and the part just pops right of the mould
    Well, no, but it's still clamped to the table I've routing one bit at a time and perfecting my mould as I go. One of the guys in the pen forum though did report his piece bending when he released it.

    Russell.
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  7. #6
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    Hi Guys,

    The molds that I cut 300 x 300 x 23mm thick did bow significantly once they were released from the sacrificial board.
    What I did notice though is that the second mold I cut did not bow as much, however I left more material between each of the reliefs cut, so I think this needs to be taken into consideration when designing your mold.

    Cheers
    Tony.

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    heat stressing one side ? causing one side to shrink or pre stressed HDPE and taking out the stress ?

    i think its the internal stress when manufactured , being released when more than 1/2 is removed , cooled to fast , baking to 3/4 melt temp might fix it ?

    it melts at 120c to 130c , so i will try and boil a sheet for an hour before my next attempt

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  10. #9
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    running an x axis heavy program tonight , x axis stepper running at 105c deg , thats at 48 volts , at 3 amps , i checked the old power supply and thats 38 volts under a 3 amp load

    i will be lowering the amps after this cut is finished , ant 120c the enamel will melt of the wire inside the steppers

    just put a big fan on it and it dropped to 87c

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SawDustSniffer View Post
    running an x axis heavy program tonight , x axis stepper running at 105c deg , thats at 48 volts , at 3 amps , i checked the old power supply and thats 38 volts under a 3 amp load

    i will be lowering the amps after this cut is finished , ant 120c the enamel will melt of the wire inside the steppers

    just put a big fan on it and it dropped to 87c
    I don't really have a way of checking the temp on mine. Never thought about the wires melting. That's a worry

    Russell
    Pen Affair Craft Supplies - Cheapest Pearl Ex & Pemo Polymer Clay in Australia
    http://craftsupplies.penaffair.com

  12. #11
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    Hello ;
    I also had similar heating problem with my stepper motors just after I built my cnc router (Joes 2006 design). The motors (425) got too hot to hold for more than 5 seconds.

    I installed little 12 volt dc fans (from old computer cpu ) they are about 2.5" square. I made a little aluminum bracket and mounted the fans about 2" away from each motor this cured the heating problem. I used one on each of the 3 steppers and powered them with a little 12 volt wall wart (110 volt ac to 12 volt dc).

    Give it a go....... worked fine for me.

    Cheers.Doug

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