28th Apr 2009, 01:08 PM #1
Wiring Chinese Spindles and VFD's
Hi Guys - I guess this is particularly addressed to either Rod or greg, but any suggestions would be very welcome.
I just received my Chinese air-cooled spindle and VFD, but ithey came with no paperwork or any sort of wiring diagram/guide sheet.
I have enclosed a couple of photos so people can see what they look like - pretty standard I think.
The specs are;
* Spindle - air-cooled 1.5kw - 65mm x 200mm - 220v x 1.5kw - 8a 400hz 24000rpm
* VFD -made by Huanyang - model HY01D523B - 220v 1.5kw.
The fitting at the top of the spindle has three wires ( I have checked - all three are connected to the spindle, but not sure which one is the earth).
Any help with wiring diagrams, suggestions, etc much appreciated.
Probably the most confusing thing is the setup under the VFD which has nine connectors, as follows
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
R S T P+ PR U V W (Chinese hieroglyphic)
Cheers in advance
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28th Apr 2009, 01:32 PM #2
Just checked google.
If you search google with "Huanyang - model HY01D523B" without quotes(copy and paste from between quotes if you like). It will show you 1 result called "I" and it will be a word document inside a zip file. This is the VFD user manual.
28th Apr 2009, 02:25 PM #3
Grab the manual that Daniel gave the link for. That is the best place to start for the VFD.
At first look the manual will be a bit overwhelming. Once you have gone through it a couple of times it will make more sense.
There will be three wires going to the spindle. Hence the three connectors at that end. You will also connect an earth which will need to go to the spindle body or mount.
You won't need to connect any of the small connectors unless you want Mach to control the spindle on/off and RPM. That can all be done from the VFD front panel.
There will be some basic parameters that need setting like, amps, frequency, spin up time. The manual will go over those.
I think Rod has one of the same VFDs so he should be able to be more specific.
Need to add that if you are not 100% sure then seek some hands on help. This is all at 240 volts and is serious stuff.
28th Apr 2009, 05:26 PM #4
Thanks Daniel and Greg.
I have downloaded the manual and you are right - it does appear daunting at first glance - particularly for the 'electronicall handicapped" like myself.
I have figured out how to wire the input, but am a bit lost with the output to the spindle.
There are three wires emanating from U, V, and W, - does it matter which outlet wire (U,V, or W) goes to which input pin on the spindle? If yes - how do I identify which is which?
Also, the manual does not appear to show the same configuration of controls on the VFD as they appear on my unit. Has anyone else actually used this model?
Apologies for all the questions but I am really flying in the dark with electronics and electricity - about all I really know is that it is invisible, has no smell or taste, and hides inside wires, waiting to jump out and bite the unwary - of which I am most assuredly one.
Thanks again for the help.
28th Apr 2009, 09:24 PM #5
No it does not matter which of the three is U, V or W.
After it is all going and if the VFD says it is spinning CW and in fact it is going CCW then swap any two wires.
".......unwary - of which I am most assuredly one."
At the risk of repeating myself it may be advisable to get some assistance. 240 volts can bite big time.
29th Apr 2009, 10:38 AM #6
I just received my spindle today and I have a manual with mine - okay it is in Chinese, but there are diagrams. If you need I can scan this at work. I will check to see if the online version is the same as mine
On another note, the damn water inlets on the spindle have broken off and half of the inlet pipe is still in the motor mount. If it was going to get broken it was going to happen to me. Now 2 weeks of how are we going to fix this starts.
Has anyone got the cad files for the mounts so i can hopefully machine this on my new X4.
29th Apr 2009, 10:46 AM #7
Are they the 1/4" BSP fittings that we are used to seeing?
Has it snapped off flush leaving the thread in the body?
Do you have any easyouts?
29th Apr 2009, 11:07 AM #8
It does look like a 1/4 BSP fitting.
Of course it snapped with half the thread still in the unit. Were talking about me here. If its going to fail it will fail miserably.
Image attached. Sorry took it with my phone and is a little unclear.
I don't have any easyouts, so i may have to buy a 3mm unit or see if school has one tomorrow night. Maybe Nigel has one i could use. Damn waste of time having to do this due to poor packaging.
thanks for the feedback Greg. Sorry Noel for hijacking your thread. I can start a new one if you like
29th Apr 2009, 11:16 AM #9
29th Apr 2009, 01:36 PM #10
Did you guys change out the fittings that came with the unit. They seem to be fiddly to fit a line to.
I was thinking some nice stainless water or gas fittings could be used instead.
29th Apr 2009, 06:03 PM #11
Send them an email about the broken nipples (I love that word) they will replace them.
Guys we need to remember to tell anyone else that buys one of the spindles to tell the supplier to remove the nipples before sending to stop this happening as I think this is what the 4th one it has happened to.
29th Apr 2009, 06:24 PM #12
They are easy enough to get out. I have removed two broken in the same place as yours with a flat blade screwdriver jammed in the fitting. Came away easy so an easy out should work well. Make sure you don't bottom out the easyout and damage the cooling tubes.
Good thinking about the packaging Sean.Cheers, Rod
Obott, Nobott, Jabott, Rodot, RPM, Morphy, Lebot, BigG, Tubot, Jobott, X2 Hybrid, X3 conversion, 6B4.
29th Apr 2009, 06:34 PM #13
1st May 2009, 03:19 PM #14
I made him send me some new "NIPPLES" and a couple of ER11 collets and nut as well for my troubles.
Willy is right, make him take them out for shipping. I mean these Chinese guys and their cardboard packaging? What the hell do they expect it will protect against.
Thanks for the link Greg. Had a look, now just need to find a local supplier.
4th May 2009, 10:37 AM #15
I have no idea how you guys managed to get the brass thread out so easily. We tried with an alan key and all i did was bend the key.
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