HAMMER K3 Winner + Comfort Package

**Wallnut** · 14th September 2010, 11:33 AM

The end of the saga ! When I first started wood working I did the usual run around to find the 'Ideal' tool to purchase. The table saw effort started with a Ryobi bench top, then the Triton

. never again! this was followed by a Ledda, was not too bad once the V belt was changed for a leather link belt to stop the ungodly vibration from belt 'memory' with the standard one. The fence required a lot of fiddling with a steel rule to get accurate parallel cuts, dust extraction was pitiful and hopeless for long trimming cuts or sheet work. Then came the radial arm saw for wide square cuts on jointed panels, got that one cheap at an auction. I was running out of room in my shed!
Rough cut boards direct from the Mill is by far the cheapest way to obtain good quality furniture timber, so time and effort taken to obtain a true parallel edge on a long board was frustrating to to say the least.
Then SWMBO stated I was just too dam fussy and took pity on me, in return for a new kitchen etc

, I was totally spoiled last Chrissy, a Hammer K3 Comfort sliding Panel saw.

The 4 month wait for delivery was worth it.
I shudder when thinking of the time wasted, good timber spoiled by poor results with previous machines. The only fault I see with the Hammer is the flimsy extension tray, this also supports the outboard end of the rip fence guide. This machine is unreal, very quiet, cuts are square, angles are spot on and the slide is only 0.02mm out over 2 meters! With the 6mm slot cutter blade, clean square tenons are a breeze. I can now handle any sheet work and long boards on my own with similar results.
I know the price tag of a tad over $7000 delivered may appear high, but when the money wasted on previous machines, lost time, frustration and standard of work is taken into account, it is excellent value.

In fact, if I was starting out now, I would save my rubles and get a quality Combination machine up front, not purchase 5 separate machines which works out dearer in the long run and take up a lot of floor space.
Oh the experience that comes with age and the scars to prove it.

Since the attached Pics were taken, the draw edges are routed, handles fitted and the Spur Mahogany bench top is ready to fit. The ply is temporary.
Drawers and kick board are Qld Maple with Silver Ash framing.

**Jim Carroll** · 14th September 2010, 01:51 PM

Well done with the hammer

Kitchen is looking good , only comment would be the way you have set out the drawer fronts, a bit more time in selection of the fronts to get them to blend better would make them look like they came out of the same board.

**beer is good** · 14th September 2010, 02:43 PM

Beautiful cabinet work - but where are the pictures of the Hammer???

**groeneaj** · 14th September 2010, 03:30 PM

Looking really good mate !

**Wallnut** · 14th September 2010, 04:15 PM

Good point Jim, thank you, I will look into it.
Beer is Good, (Scotch is better)

Ok here it is, and also the flimsy bit. It is bolted to the rip fence guide and the 1 on the bracket and only rests on the 2 bolts seen under the plate, the whole front is floating.

**ian** · 15th September 2010, 12:17 AM

love that corner drawer

where did you get the insert

**Wallnut** · 15th September 2010, 10:32 AM

Ian,
The drawer hardware is made by Blum, available from cabinet supply shops.
they are the soft self close type at about $80 per set.

**TP1** · 15th September 2010, 01:03 PM

Congrats on the machine. My experience with hammer has got be eying off their other machines as well. I also asked this question on another thread but was wondering whether you have tried ripping solid timber with the sliding table?

**Wallnut** · 16th September 2010, 12:11 PM

TPI,
90% of the work done on my Hammer is with solid timber, if you look at Photo 0395 above, you will see the slide clamp on the saw (to secure the ends of long boards) and a stack of solid timber behind it. Also behind the saw is the large aluminium square I use to support the centre section of the long boards when cutting. It works very weell for me.

**artme** · 19th September 2010, 06:45 PM

Good review and great work on the kitchen!

**munruben** · 20th September 2010, 04:18 PM

Good review and nice work on the kitchen. I agree a good machine makes a great difference to your work but not everyone can afford a $7000 plus machine for a hobby and The Triton does serve a purpose for those of us who don't or can't spend that kind of money. I for one could certainly not justify spending that sort of money.

**Billyboydes** · 19th November 2010, 04:56 PM

Originally Posted by TP1

Congrats on the machine. My experience with hammer has got be eying off their other machines as well. I also asked this question on another thread but was wondering whether you have tried ripping solid timber with the sliding table?

Hi TPI,
Sorry for the late response to this thread. I also have the K3 Winner Comfort at home and would recommend against using the sliding table for ripping. In the setup of the machine the sliding table and the Ripping fence are not perpendicular. This is done to allow the timber to spread when ripping to avoid kickback. The sliding table should always be locked when ripping and the work piece held against the ripping fence.
regards
Billy

**Wallnut** · 20th November 2010, 11:19 PM

Hi Billy'b
I rip meters of timber with my Hammer, I had 2 mtr aluminium square made up, screwed a 'safe' edge to it and use the clamp on the end. Results in very safe and accurate ripped long boards as the square also supports the centre of the board being ripped, honestly, I have yet to use the rip fence, the square does it all,

The edge of the blade is 4mm from the edge of the slide, just measure each end and clamp if you don't have a long square, I am sure you could make a square from timber but I prefer the aluminium one.
Stay safe
Bushy

**pjt** · 22nd November 2010, 09:33 PM

Hi all, my two cents.....
I have the same machine as well, I use both the sliding table and fence for ripping, it just depends on what I am doing, usually to take a rough edge off I use the slide table then if I am cutting to width I use the fence.

I think

the K series Felder has an attachment that fits on the side of the slide table that can be set to a width same as the crosscut stop which then gives u a paralell (or tapered if required I'd guess as well) set up to cut a board to width, kinda the same as Wallnut's big square.

BillyB I think is referring to the usual setup of the slide table not running paralell with the blade, this is done to provide clearance to the cut wood with the rising teeth of the blade, would think it also gives a smoother cut but shouldn't prevent u from ripping solely using the slide table, I wouldn't think so anyway??

My greatest annoyance with the machine is the tolerance on the bushes on the round bar for the fence, set a distance, tighten knob and the fence moves, have to fiddle with it to get it where I want it

, apart from that it's a far far far better machine compaered to the thing I had before.

Pete

**Wallnut** · 23rd November 2010, 08:55 AM

Hi pjt,
Agreee with the fence statement, also the amount of time it takes to get that round bar dead square to the slide/blade, very fiddly, hence the square was born.
That aside, it is a dam good, accurate saw for the price.
Bushy

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