Thread: Makita Electric chainsaw

Good review Dakotax and many thanks for posting it.

I have often wondered about these machines for lighter work around the home.

I can see that having to remove the chain for sharpening could be a drawback, but as you are unlikely to use it in the bush ( problems with getting a long enough lead ), I guess that is not so bad.

I'm thinking of buying the Makita and now you have convinced me, thanks.

SB

The Boss (bless her) said I could have one of these last year when we were looking at cutting a tree down. Bought one at a reasonable price and went to play/work. Several hours later the tree was done and same as dakotax 3 I was looking for more to cut as the saw was a joy to use. Sadly this was our only tree that needed cutting down, so the saw is safely put away awaiting a friends request to help cut a tree down.
Only thing to be mindful of was the extension lead.

I have been using this saw occasionally since my first post and all of what I had to say still stands. Best thing I've purchased recently. It has been used for light trimming and cutting firewood and the chain is overdue for it's first sharpen. It's biggest and most recent task to date has been a 300mm dia dried hardwood log that needed docking for firewood. Although it has a 400mm bar, I wouldn't recommend anything bigger than this for continuous use. In fact, you would be no less off with the smaller bar. Considering the state of the chain, it did remarkably well but there comes a time when every tool meets it's match. I have not used other electric saws so I am unable to compare but this one seems to work quite okay.

If it's the same model I had the wrinkle was that if you were cutting with the grain (as I often do for turning blanks) the side cover would clog pretty soon and had to be picked out with a twig. If you ignored that the driveshaft bearing would heat up and seize.

...I'll send this off. This is the underside as used, I've not touched it. All cross cutting though. With the hardwood log, she did chatter a bit, probably to be expected. (Can't believe I'm chatting about the underside of a chainsaw to a computer)

Why is it that I always see the bluntest of chains on electric chainsaws?

When using a petrol powered saw the chain should be touched up after every 2 tankfuls of fuel in green wood, and after every tankful in dry wood. Yet when electric CS users bring the saw for me to look at because it doesn't cut and I ask them when they last sharpened it, the most common reply is "I do not remember".

Then there is sharpening, versus "waving a file or grinder in the general direction of the chain" but that's a hobbyhorse of mine best left for another forum.

Two reasons...

1) When I was using petrol powered saws out of habit we would frequently stop to resharpen. Where we lived there was primarily red gum and stringy bark and at every refuel we would look over the chain and decide. Often a resharpen also meant a bit of a rest too. On the log she goes, clamp the file guide onto the bar and spend a few minutes addressing both sides. Either that or put a sharpened chain on which took only a minute; easy. Not so the electric saw. Because of the electric brake the chain can't be pulled through so it has to be removed, so a clamp-on file guide was of no use in-situ. Instead chain and bar need to come off and be clamped in a vice or be put through a small electric grinder.

2) Ignorance. Most home users get one of these for one primary purpose: tree trimming. Secondary considerations don't get a look in. "The trees need trimming, so we'll get a saw to trim them." Then they put it back into the shed til next time. Hand sharpening is not difficult but like most basic skills it still needs learning and sharpening is a secondary consideration, not in the front of the home users mind. With so much material on the web today there is no excuse.

Originally Posted by dakotax3

Two reasons...

Good answers - thanks.

just a bit of info you may likw to hear - you can move the chain while on the bar.
just pull the trigger & you release the primary chain brake.
these saws have a 2 stage chain brake, one is the traditional front lever for kickback, the other is a partial engaging of the same brake system. when you release the trigger its engaged to prevent the chain running on until it stops.

Looneytoons, You ripper. Just went outside and tried it and came back in happy now I can do it in-situ the same as petrol powered saws. Checked the manual too, no mention of this function.

Thank you.

On a related subject-we have a couple of Stihl chainsaws (2-stroke) pretty ancient but good. They can be a bit cantankerous to start sometimes & my wife wanted a little electric one for cutting a bit of firewood etc.

My niece worked at a hardware store & she looked at what was available, in the name brand & the newer cheapy barnd ones & decided on a Ryobi. I think it was around $180.
It leaked oil badly & the switch & clutch gave up in under an hour's real work.

Took it back, supposedly under warranty the next week, and about 6 weeks later we were offered another one. Same problem. Took it back immediately & we were told that Ryobi were dropping a host of independent & other stores to be the main supplier to the big B, and we were out of luck-no warranty or exchange available, sorry-get lost.

Thuis, I won't buy Ryobi again, no matter how good the review. Sad as we have a few power tools from the early 1980s -the blue Ryobis-and they're lasting very well.

I've used other electric chainsaws and they have usually performed quite well. I bought a Makita 1800W the other day as I have borrowed too often and am tired of maintaining other peoples tools before I can use them.
Stoked! - best bang for weight chainsaw I have ever used. Up a tree one handed and felt very safe. (both hands still attached).
The tool less blade tensioning means you don't have to stop what you are doing to adjust the tool. The tensioning system works very well.
I have performed a few rip cuts in dry jacaranda and the chute did not clog. Most small chainsaws do clog when ripping.