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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default Masterwood OMB1V mortiser

    When I bought my Robland NX410 it came with a mortiser attachement, its in the way if you are using the jointer, if you are using the thicknesser, you have to walk around it, so I've only used the mortiser attachment once and it was put away for good.

    I have a Domino XL and the vaccum to do most of the smaller tenon/mortise work, but when it comes to larger mortise, I am limited by options.

    Sometime in 2013, I've bought myself a 2hp Holytek chisel mortiser along with a quality Japanese chisel mortise bit, initially I was quite happy that I can drill square holes, but only after a project I've built I've discovered its quite repetitive and time concerning process if you want to mill out a large mortise.

    My Holytek 2hp mortiser
    mortiser3.jpg

    Ever since then I have been looking at oscillating chisel mortiser, after a bit of online search and store visits, I've found a near perfect mortiser for my needs, the Masterwood OMB1V, The agent who sells them were pulling out of NZ and offered them at a discount so I bought it along with the Minimax S400P.

    The mortiser was delivered without any issues, except I had to buy a crane to remove it off the pallet it was on, thought about rolling it off but the machine weighs 500kg. When everything is in place I tried to mill a mortice on a stock but it was not milling right, the cutter head enters on an angle. I did not want to spend time on setting the machine up and reading the manual, I can spend a couple of hundred dollards on professional help it will probably save me many hours of my time, therefore when the technician came over to fix my wide belt sander I did ask him about setting the machine up, he commented this is probably one of very few if not the only Masterwood vertical mortiser they have sold in NZ in the last 10-15 years, he knew little about setting it up. At this point I thought to myself, well its just a mortiser, how hard can it be? from there onwards its about 5-6 nights in the shed figuring out how to set it up and bed time reading the manual everywhere I go (simplified manual didnt help!). I've got it right eventually and I am glad I spent the time reading the manual.

    Just after setting up, not quite there.
    mortiser1.jpg

    mortiser2.jpg

    The Cutter
    The factory cutter head has 3 holes in its tips to blow out the chips, they are at front, middle and back of the cutter tip, you can obtain these cutter heads from Italian tools manufacturer but the aftermarket ones does not have these blow holes to blow the chips. Academy Saws in Australia does these cutters as well but I was told the guy doesnt have email so I gave up there. The cutter should have cutting capacity stated on them, for example, a S10 35-45 P70 means it can cut a mortise that is 10mm wide, 35-45mm thick, and 70mm long, the 35-45mm is the range that they are designed to work with, you will need to setup this on the machine, you can use a 35-45 cutter head to cut 50mm and cut slightly deeper than 70mm, or you can use a 35-45 cutter to cut 30mm tenon, but this is not recommended. The maximum the cutter can go to is S25 100-110 P130, this is from Masterwood Manual, aftermarket cutter may give a bigger cut but I am yet to check them out.

    Stops
    The mortiser has many stops that you can utilise to speedup the production, the stops stays true and they are all adjustable.

    Capacity of the machine
    The mortiser is capable of very tiny to large mortise, the largest it can mill out in one down stroke is 25mm thick by 110 mm wide by 130mm long, to do this you will need a cutter of this particular size, if you want a 50mm thick mortise then just move the machine 25mm forward/backward. The machine came with 2 cutter heads from Masterwood, although not the size I wanted but given its very easy to move longitudinally its not an issue for now, the machine can move latitudinally as well, about 100mm. The after market cutterhead is about $500-$1000 NZD.

    Pneumatics
    The hold-ons and longitudinal movement are activated by compressed air, the machine wont start if the material hold-on is not activated, the machine uses 320 litres of air per minute or 11.3CFM. Apart from the aforementioned blower on the cutter the machine also has nozzle blower blowing into the mortise to remove the chips, there are no chips in the mortise if you are not rushing the cut (I was cutting 70mm mortise)

    Improvement:
    1. The extension does not stay level, I have to set a stand underneath the extension to bring it up to level
    2. Probably bring down the machine cost? they were listed for $15k NZD in 2009, Centauro makes these mortiser as well, they are $18k+ NZD, this is 2014 pricing.
    3. The front panel where you access the machine is tightened by a riduculously small handwheel, it will come loose after 1-2 minute of machining, I've put it away and used proper nuts and locked it by spanner. problem solved.
    4. Chip extraction is only 75mm, can do better with 100mm or bigger extraction.

    Possible alternative:
    Leigh FMT, about $1800 NZD

    Last words:
    Although initially a pain to setup because its oscillating heads, its nothing but a pleasure to use, the machine stays true after hours and hours of use. Do I have the production need to justify this mortiser? nope. Do I like quality Italian machinery that makes low pitch humming and put a smile on my face everytime I use it? YES.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Michigan USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hello Albert,
    I just purchased a Masterwood OMB1V built in 2000 from a machinery reseller in Denmark. I read your post with great interest. I have searched high and low on the internet for a decent owners service manual. I downloaded one from the UK printed for a Muti OMB1V predecessor. One of the worst manuals I have ever seen, it tells almost nothing. I have written Masterwood in Italy and have yet to get a response. I am attempting to cut 3/4" mortises in black cherry ranging from 3" to 5" long and up to 3 3/4" deep for thru mortises. I have watched the one you tube video I could find and even though the operator appears to be using a soft wood like pine it looks much more effortless. In the initial test cuts I have done my machine seems like it is vibrating to much, one screw fell out of the down handle and some mortises are tapered out of square. It struggles to get the job done and something doesn't seem right. Do you know how or where I can get the manual you wrote about and studied. I have several commissions and need this machine running. Desperate, please help.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Michigan USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I was also wondering what wood you are using with your OMBIV? I hope you get these replies as I sure could use little help or direction as to what you did in your set up and you are making it sound as you bought a new machine.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    Hi Underbark, I will send you the user manual in PDF format, please send me a private message with your email.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    I have only used pine to date. and yes I bought the Masterwood OMB1V new
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Michigan USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I just received a chopped up missing pages manual from Italy, if yours is easy to send please do. My commissions are 95% black cherry and balance white oak or walnut. I did discover that seller did not have and send the two small counter weights for balancing head for larger chisels in item 3.5 Waiting to hear from Italy on that hopefully Monday. If they are not in stock I will have to have them machined if I can get the specs. You must have the two weights because your machine was new, hopefully they can give me specs or have them. Instead of spending money on it I need to be making money with it. I may be asking you for description of weights, I will be cutting with larger chisels. Thank you for your response Albert.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    no worries bud, just let me know whatever you need to know.

    The counterweight is quite hard to describe because its irregular size and shape.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Michigan USA
    Age
    67
    Posts
    5

    Default counterweights

    Quote Originally Posted by Albert View Post
    no worries bud, just let me know whatever you need to know.

    The counterweight is quite hard to describe because its irregular size and shape.
    Hello Albert,
    Italy appears to be having some trouble identifying the part number or maybe not. They sent me a number and picture, but the picture appears to be the main larger weight. I had downloaded a terrible Muti manual, but one thing it has is a few parts pictures that shows the 2 small counterweights, which look to be like half of the main weight with one screw hole not two, like the main weight.

    Anyway, apparently the manual is in 4 languages, Italy sent me the English pages, but no parts diagrams. Does your manual have the parts diagrams and could please send them to me? [email protected] And or find the part number in your manual for the two small counterweights referred to in section 3.5. And or, if you already have the manual in pdf. form and just send that please. Maybe, a couple of photos of these small counterweights? The most important thing is checking this part number, they said CP013221.
    thank you

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    I received two manuals, one is for parts and one is for the instruction. Will send the photos of the counter weight and manual tomorrow
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    Here are the photos of the parts you require.

    IMG_3502.jpgIMG_3501.jpg
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Poland
    Age
    55
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    3

    Default

    Hello Albert, would it be possible for you to send me the manuals? I bought used OMB1V and head of the machine is completely taken apart....

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    997

    Default

    Hi Bob, yes sure, just give me your email so I can send you a scan copy.

    there is an operating manual and a parts manual. I will send you both.
    SCM L'Invincibile si X, SCM L'Invincibile S7, SCM TI 145EP, SCM Sandya Win 630, Masterwood OMB1V, Meber 600, Delta RJ42, Nederman S750, Chicago Pneumatics CPRS10500, Ceccato CDX12



  14. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,197

    Default

    Albert,

    Threads like this keep popping up on the forums......a first post, from someone in an obscure far away country, requesting a copy of manual (usually tacking on the end of a legitimate thread). I've even seen threads with multiple such requests from all over the world, always new members and first post. Seriously, what are the chances of these requests being genuine???

    As far as I can tell this is just scammers trying to harvest genuine email addresses. If you still want to respond to this character, I'd suggest only using an email address that you don't mind being bombarded with spam in the future. Maybe set up a gmail address just for this exercise, so it can be abandoned if necessary.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Conder, ACT
    Age
    77
    Posts
    6,051

    Default

    IP agrees with stated location.
    Some people are only watchers until something comes up that they need.
    No action.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Grovedale (Geelong) Victoria
    Age
    74
    Posts
    12,183

    Default

    Some people are only watchers until something comes up that they need.
    Good reply David and I whole heatedly agree.

    Some people join up because they have found a reference to what they have been searching for in Google and other search engines. I don't have a problem with that, some of our best and oldest members came to the forums in just that way, matter of fact most of our members came to the forums in that way.

    We moved into a new (pre-owned) house May last year and there were no manuals for anything, stove, oven, air conditioner, hot water service, refrigerator, pool and spa equipment, etc. So I did online searches for them and finally came up with manuals for all. A couple I had to join a forum for and was able to get them from members who were happy to help.

    I'm not a scammer, nor was I looking to harvest email addresses. No, just a happy individual, graciously helped with a problem.

    There a way more easier ways to harvest email addresses you can buy a few million for just a few dollars, for a few dollars extra you can get them region, gender, trade, sport, etc, specific. Why on earth would someone waste their time doing it the hard way.

    For anyone worried about having their email address harvested you can add your manual to the Manuals section of the forums that way anyone can safely access them at any time without setting off alarm bells.

    Even if you're not paranoid and have a manual that might be of use, feel free to add it to the Manuals section of the forums Library

    Cheers - Neil
    KEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
    Use the Report icon at the bottom of all Posts, PM's and Blog entries.


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