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RESTORATION Got an antique you need to restore. Don't strip it and coat it with polyurethane and ruin it's value. Check in here for traditional finishes and genuine restoration help. Find out the ins and outs and how to keep or enhance it's value. Not just for furniture.

 

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  #1  
Old 5th Jul 2011, 09:33 AM
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Default Coopers paint stripper

Has anyone used this, it's not, cheap however it looks like a lot healthier than putting a belt sander on a door covered with lead paint.

Easy Paint Stripping

My only other concern is that it all looks to easy, my ######## detector starts to ring in cases like these, lol.
Any feedback or better ideas much appreciated.

Cheers

Jon
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  #2  
Old 11th Jul 2011, 11:30 PM
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Default Stripper

The same or at least similar paint stripping system is also available in Australia. I am interested in using it on my boat restoration in stripping the clinker planks of their varnish and hopefully the stain as well. So any comments would be appreciated
Regards
Peter
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  #3  
Old 12th Jul 2011, 07:01 AM
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Default Coopers update

I am going to have the inventor, Simon, over to demonstrate in the next few weeks, so will give a review for anyone interested.

Cheers

Jon
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  #4  
Old 12th Jul 2011, 10:13 AM
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Default

Look forward to the review. I plan on stripping paint from the skirting and architraves from our 100+ year old house so lead will be a concern. I have ordered from Soy Gel to test after reading a positive review in Australian Woodworker ....... just waiting for it to arrive.
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  #5  
Old 12th Jul 2011, 10:17 AM
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Default Sounds interesting

We can compare notes a I just need something that is quick, clean and won't poison me.
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  #6  
Old 20th Jul 2011, 11:06 AM
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Default

+1 for peelaway 9 (marine version).

I've picked it up in Sydney in bulk 20kg tubs @ $220 at amazing paints.

I could have sworn I posted a reply to someone ages ago about doors but cant find it now

Needs no neutraliser/rinse unlike their other ones, needs coating paper but this is a plus as it stops drying, and is good for safe lead paint removal.

I've used this on house (lime render, architraves etc) and furniture with little complaint. Could leave it on cedar, pine etc wrapped up for 2 weeks and would pull paint of intricate wooden/plaster moulding perfectly.

The only times I've seen it fail is when it wasn't used correctly, mostly from people who read the instructions then decide their own ones (ie cheap thin smear thinking it'll go further etc).

Any time things aren't going 100% your way with the stuff, you've gotta take perspective and think 'how much would I be swearing/cursing, how long would it take and how much would it cost if I was doing it with abc method'. 9/10 times with the work I do I'm happy with the chosen medium.

Jon, your ######## detector is working, but the needle is fluctuating. The same as with all of these strippers, depends on what you're taking off, what it's sitting on and how it was prepped/applied. I HAVE stripped doors with that stuff ages ago that almost worked like the ad, and have stripped other stuff that had me cursing- although if it was my business I could understand why I would choose to promote the former.
Having said that it's hard to believe looking at the ad they're not selling magic paint stripping wands

Peter- with these types if you want to take the stain off as much as possible you have to catch the magic time when it's saturated the solid coating as much as it will and is still liquidy/moist underneath. Going either way is very counterproductive in the long run (would explain why they print test patch notes on their cover paper).

In your case I'd suggest buying the smallest sample sizes if possible to try different brands to see what's going to work best (I've only bought a few 20kg tubs myself) with the varnish before commiting to the bulk size needed for a boat.


Cheers,
G
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  #7  
Old 21st Jul 2011, 11:25 PM
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Default Peelaway

Thanks for that info. I just had a look at the peelaway system. It seems good but sadly the specs for both Peelaway 1,8 and 9 say that it is not suitable for veneers and most importantly in my case plywood.

I'm having a look at the coopers system in Sydney probably on Saturday.


Peter
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  #8  
Old 21st Jul 2011, 11:47 PM
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Default

The peelaway sounds good. Roughly how much area does the 20kg cover?
I am still waiting on the SoyGel. Lost in the post by the sounds of it and now waiting for more stock to arrive
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  #9  
Old 25th Jul 2011, 02:59 PM
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Default

Quite suprised 9 wouldn't be suitable unless it was a thin veneered hide/water soluble glue- I've used it thinly on a singer sewing machine lid/top (but not on the rest) and it held ok.

If applied carefully and not let to absorb over days (so it just saturates paint, not wood) then it wouldn't be too bad....

I think I've stripped the front of a double fronted cottage (prob 40m square from memory- includes porch wall) with a fresh half 20kg tub, although coverage mainly depends on four things-
  • correct application/thickness
  • type of coating that it is saturating
  • base material absorbency/texture/original prep
  • and the all important how much 'postparation' you are prepared to do

To a lesser degree there's also age of the stuff, temp, humidity etc etc etc

Cheers,
Garth
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  #10  
Old 28th Jul 2011, 10:03 PM
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Default

Thanks for the info Garth .... are you using Peel Away Eight?
I can only find reference to 8 and 1 not 9.
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  #11  
Old 17th Aug 2011, 09:54 AM
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Default

Nup, it's definitely the 9- the only one that doesn't require a neutraliser. Might go under the name of their marine version since I last got some...

Just had a quick look and it looks like they've done exactly that with 8 and 9- they must have decided that boat owners must have bigger pockets than woodies.

Either that, or a few boat owners have just bought 'peelaway' generically and taken off more than they bargained for...

Peel Away®, Dumond Chemicals - Applications and Solutions
PEELAWAY 9 Marine Safety Paint Stripper - 15kg | eBay

Never tried the lower numbers and didn't want to- I've lived too long now to see that after using a stronger stripper than necessary on nice wood, then to neutralise it with acetic acid afterwards is adding too many layers to the cake. Not to mention the extra steps taken timewise.


Cheers,
Garth
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  #12  
Old 18th Oct 2011, 10:34 PM
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Default Coopers paint stripper

Well I bit the bullet and bought the coopers paint stripper system from the heritage building centre in Sydney.

I initially bought the 0.5 ltr kit as I didn't want to outlay a lot of money on something that may not work. Last week after trying the stripper and the flushing solution on a part of the inside of the boat I was impressed enough to purchase another 2 litres of the product to continue the stripping process.

I have to say that I am very impressed with the way that this stripping system works. I have probably stripped about nearly 40% of the inside with 2litres of the stripper. Admittedly the inside was not heavily coated with paint so it has been easier than I would have first thought but it does work really well.

If I knew how to post some pictures I would do a post a couple of before and after photos that I have which would convince people

Cheers
Peter
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  #13  
Old 29th Nov 2011, 09:03 AM
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Default

I think the product looks good, but I was struggling to pay too much attention as I was laughing so hard at the music

do do do do do strip it
de de de de de de de strip the wood

Perhaps it is just me, but jingles very rarely help a situation.

I need to strip a staircase at home that will have lead paint, so this looks like the business. will give it a go.

Trav
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  #14  
Old 29th Nov 2011, 08:02 PM
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Default Coopers paint stripper

I eventually finished the paint removal from the entire interior of my boat. It took a while but it came up really good.

I think that you will be impressed with the product.
One thing of warning. Use a charcoal filter dust mask. The stripper is not too bad for the smell but the flusher is really something else and reall knocked my breathing around.

Cheers
Peter
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