Thread: Repair 107 year old sash cord

Thanks for all the feedback & info.
Initial thoughts to replace them is due to extensive loss and some edge to one edge of architrave, also I will be retiring a bathroom and could add same architrave to door and windows in that room.
Blades will cost ~$500 + $150 setup + material [emoji33].
I have removed some paint so far on tablesaw & router table with dust extractor and fume grade mask [emoji40].
So, I'll continue stripping paint & bog up. See how it goes.
Is there a recommended paint stripper? I have some Diggers Industrial PS.
I'm gunna need rust converter as well. This I'm not familiar with.
Thanks for the info on the rosette cutter.

That architrave looks like wheat bix.
Paint stripper : I like solvent based strippers. There are two types, the traditional Dichloromethane or the more recent ethylene glycol. I have good results with the former. But the latter is supposedly less toxic to the environment. With both types, the biggest problem is that the solvent evaporates quickly before any blistering is complete. It is best to cover the area after liberal brushing of the stripper with plastic or glad wrap to delay evaporation.
De-rusting: There are 2 alternatives, either via electrolysis or application of acid. Electrolysis is the cheapest method, but it involves the use of 12V dc supply. Acid is simpler and citric acid is the safest to use. I think there are several posts in regard to using citric acid. The cheapest way to get citric acid in bulk is to get the White Knight Concrete Etcher from mitre 10.
Using a filler: To get the correct profile for your architrave, you can make yourself a mold. All you need to make a mold is some contact book covering, a can of polyurethene foam spray. Find a good bit of your architrave and cover it with contact. Spray a bit of cooking oil on the contact to stop the foam from sticking. Then spray the expanding foam on to the area of interest and watch it expand. Once its set, peel off the contact and you have a mold. I would also recommend using epoxy resin as a filler. I find that builder's bog tend to come off after a few cycles of expansion and contraction of the timber substrate.
Also that sash pulley looks massive, you'd be better off keeping them.

Justonething

There are some [emoji1303] work arounds there.
I'm def gunna try the mold.
Is it worth trying the same idea with builders bog as the mold?

Find someone who does Soda blasting, way quicker, less hazardous, far better result for re-painting.

Only if you have a lot of builders bog that you don't know what to do with.

I meant the big as the mold negative

Graham I knew what you mean. My concern was that it was a bit tedious to spread bog evenly to build up a profile. So I just assumed you would only do it if you already have it on hand.

If you do go the bog way.
Make a template out of some MDF or something similar.
To spread your filler(smoth it out).

Cheers Matt

There a number of businesses that specialise in period mouldings like this one

https://www.australianmoulding.com.au/

Only problem may be, if you like real wood, some only work in MDF.

Under all that paint, is some nice hard timber.
As much as I would like to go au naturale, I think gloss white oil base top coat might be the go.

Lovely house indeed.

It is a personal preference, but I find that the Amplimesh/ shark mesh security really jars with the antiquity. The simple, almost invisible black painted security/insect 316 stainless steel mesh sometimes sold as Supermesh or Crimsafe or Invisi-guard (and other brands) disappear and do not mar the beauty of the old windows. I do realise that they are also expensive. In Tasmania we lived somewhere that was mosquito-free so were able to have the windows unprotected but I know that is not possible in many parts of Australia (including our current house).

I might be wrong but I think its merbau.

Silky Oak

Thanks for the thoughts.
The timber is definitely Silky Oak.
The ugly security frames will be replaced with bespoke security frames, ala invisible screens.
But the mesh is expensive so time is part of the equation.
Personally, I can't wait to replace the current screens.